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Prop Gov Oil Line vs Titan vs Plane Power

clam

clam

Well Known Member
... interference with this combination. I have a (RV-8) Titan IOX-360, while attempting to install Plane Power 60 amp altn ( the /V version supplied with Van's FWF kit), I ran into interference with prop gov oil line. The alternator body hits the gov oil line before I even reach the end of the tensioner bracket.

Plane Power and I have discussed using the longer tensioner bracket and/or adding some bends to the prop gov oil line.

2 questions...
- anyone have this configuration with a good workaround without going to the prop gov flex hose?
- what is the wall thickness of the stainless, 3/8", Lycoming 75167 prop gov oil line? I'm guessing .035" wall but can't find the spec anywhere.
(I collapsed the wall of my original line and thinking of buying raw stock to bend a new one vice buying a new assembly).
 
A standard bender should work, but I'll bet you will end up with a lot of work to make a bend and still keep the ends in the same dimension. I'd buy the raw stock and make a new one from scratch. Use the existing line as a pattern, then sell it off to someone who needs it.
 
clam said:
... interference with this combination. I have a (RV-8) Titan IOX-360, while attempting to install Plane Power 60 amp altn ( the /V version supplied with Van's FWF kit), I ran into interference with prop gov oil line. The alternator body hits the gov oil line before I even reach the end of the tensioner bracket.

Plane Power and I have discussed using the longer tensioner bracket and/or adding some bends to the prop gov oil line.

2 questions...
- anyone have this configuration with a good workaround without going to the prop gov flex hose?
- what is the wall thickness of the stainless, 3/8", Lycoming 75167 prop gov oil line? I'm guessing .035" wall but can't find the spec anywhere.
(I collapsed the wall of my original line and thinking of buying raw stock to bend a new one vice buying a new assembly).
Click to expand...

I can not say that your engine is the same as the Lyc IO360 M1B from Vans, but . . . . I also had the same issue and was going to take off that line etc. I just took a wood block and bumped it with my palm heel and moved that line closer to the case. It resulted in about 3mm clearance from case and alternator.
I have some pictures, but unless it is a 3d image in rotation, it is very hard to tell clearance in there. I was fearing and working toward a much more difficult solution but this seems to work. The plan is to take some thin wall rubber tubing and slide a piece there to terminate large vibrations that might result in rubbing or contact.

Like I said, YMMV - - let me know about pictures.
 
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