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3A starter fuse blows repeatedly

Intermittent problems can lead to false conclusions.
Repeat the tests several times. Watch the D-180 for spar pin status.
Don't bother reporting single flash of spar warn light when master switch is operated.
Relays have a failure mode where residual magnetism causes delayed dropout.
Relay contacts can stick together due to pitting caused by arcing.
Another test: Find the brown/blue wire that connects to a spar pin switch.
Monitor the voltage on that wire as each magnet is moved out of position.
When the brown/blue wire goes high, the spar pin warn lamp should illuminate.
 
This thread was originally started back in 2018 with a different airplane.
Thus the E-LSA - S-LSA confusion.
 
Joe, You mention that diode D2 connects to Dynon EMS pin-9. Further you say the D-180 monitors and should alarm if either of the Reed switches are open. Where do I see that alarm on the D-180? I don't think that the D-180 has any thing to do with the the Red Light and the Override Switch. Bob Kibby
 
I don't know how the D-180 indicates open spar pin switches. I am just going by the schematic.
You can accomplish the same test by monitoring the voltage on the brown/blue wire
that connects to one of the spar pin switches as I suggested in post 51 above.
 
Can someone tell me why this statement was made? Isn’t this an experimental aircraft? Obviously make sure the wire size is large enough to handle the fuse size.
Thanks

S-LSA is very similar to a certified aircraft. It was built by the manufacturer and to remain airworthy you much adhere to the ongoing manufacturer's directions for maintenance. Upgrades or changes to the aircraft must be consistent with directions provided from the manufacturer. Very little flexibility. It is not experimental. (for Vans' built RV-12s notice how many service bulletins etc... they issue)

E-LSA must adhere to the manufacturer's specifications in order to be registered and granted operating limitations by FAA (usually DAR) at initial signoff. After that, its an experimental. Many changes/mods (ie adding avionics) are up to the owner, major changes like changing the engine for another model would likely require FAA involvement to pull off. Not very common, as most builders who want to sig. change the aircraft, initially build it as E-AB, completely experimental and forgo some of the E-LSA advantages.
 
Bob K, have you double checked the spar pin wiring to determine if the switches are wired in parallel or series?
Does the the brown/blue wire ONLY connect to one wire of one switch and go nowhere else?
Have you observed the D-180 while moving the spar pins to see if the D-180 gives any indication, most likely in the lower right corner?
Have you repeated the tests in your post #44 above and are they consistently repeatable? At this point
it is not really necessary to engage the starter. For now, the big red light status is enough.
 
Joe, started the process yesterday and didn't get finished. When I stated moving the Spar Pin Handles multiple times checking the wiring continuity I had trouble with the right wing reed switch. I've ordered 2 new reed switches is case there is a problem with the reed switch. Initial checks on continuity on pin 5 of the fuselage connector were good but then I started getting inconsistent readings. Will resume trouble shooting today and post results this evening. Bob Kibby
 
I cannot find a screen on the D-180 to monitor the Spar Pin Status so I'm using using my ohm meter. Bob Kibby
 
I had too many problems with the prox switches and replaced them with push button type, Vans sells them as a replacement kit, no more issues.
 
Magnetic reed switches work best when mounted in parallel with the magnet. In this case, vertical and near the magnet.
If the reed switches are in the original perpendicular mounting position, a work around is to use a paperclip bent at a 90 degree angle to conduct the magnetic field from the bottom of the magnet to the outboard end of the reed switch.
Or use any light weight steel sheet bent at 90 degrees.
A reed switch will work when mounted perpendicular but it needs to be very close to the magnet.
 
Good News and Great News!

Good News. Erratic spar pin readings due to bad ohm meter. Plugged in Fuselage Connector and Spar Pin Light works per spec. Either or both pins out of position and you get a Red light. Press Override and engine cranks. No blown starter fuse.

Great News. Received an email from Tony Kirk,Technical Support, Vans Aircraft. He has read the thread and indicates I am getting good troubleshooting advice from Joe Gores, indicated that there is a mechanical push button replacement for the reed switches, and if I cannot resolve the problem I can return the control module to Van's Aircraft for diagnostic testing and repair if required. Cost will not exceed that of a new module. I think this level of support is outstanding! I purchased my first RV-12 kit in 2008, first flight in 2010 and was not aware of Van's "Avionic Return Policy" until today. Pretty good feeling when Van's has your back over this period of time. Bob Kibby N712BK
 
We'll see tomorrow or Saturday when I get everything reinstalled and try to start the engine without any problems . I'm optimistic but understand that gremlins are associated with electronics. Thanks for all your help. Bob Kibby N712BK
 
Joe, the Great News is that I can send the Control Board back to Van's for repair if it gets to the point where I can't find anything. My time at the airport is limited this week end due to family activities so don't expect anymore updates until Tuesday. Bob Kibby
 
I reinstalled the D-180 and reconnected connectors yesterday and every thing checked out OK. This morning the right wing Reed Switch did not open the first time I disengaged the right Spar Pin so no "Red" Spar Pin light. After the reed switch was cycled a couple on times with a magnet it seems to work OK for several additional cycles. I plan to replace the right reed switch so things on on hold until I receive the new switches from Van's. Bob Kibby
 
Going to the mechanical pushbutton switches was an upgrade I am glad I did. Those magnetic reed switches were a pain.
 
You might consider jumpering the reed swiches and safety wiring the spar pins. They are on my preflight check every time.
 
Replaced the right spar pin reed switch, cycled the pin handle several times and still had erratic behavior. The triggering of the reed switch is very dependent on the height of Pin Stopper engagement in the Spar Pin Switch Plate. I reduced the diameter of the Switch Plate hole with a cable tie through the hole and get more consistent behavior. Don't understand why lowering the height of the magnet in the handle makes any difference but it seems to work. I pulled the airplane out of the hangar and started the engine without any problem. All my gauges and avionics checked OK so I plan to fly later in the week. In the morning I'm ordering the mechanical push button spar pin upgrade kit from Van's. Bob Kibby N712BK
 
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