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  #11  
Old 10-17-2018, 03:08 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lr172 View Post
Not sure what is happening here, but I believe that the shop head should be made by the material making a nice 180* turn, with the end of the rivet, after the 180, touching the backing plate. In your picture of the "Good" rivet," your material just makes a little tulip, with no contact. I would be concerned with these loosening over time.

Not an expert here, but I believe this type of rivet requires the full turn with the end of the rivet material pressed against the backing material. Take a look at a picture of a manufactured brake pad. It achieves it's objective very differently than a solid rivet. It is a lot more like a formed grommet.

Larry
I agree

The rivets labeled good, are not good.
Either the tool that is being used, or the technique being used is suspect.
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Scott McDaniels
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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  #12  
Old 10-22-2018, 06:53 PM
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Piper J3 Piper J3 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Hinckley, Ohio
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Update...

I emailed Matco and showed them pics of my rivets, and like Scott says, none are any good. Turns out the riveting tool I was using is not up to scratch. Matco suggested a screw-type rivet press and so I bought a Rapco Brake Rivet Tool RA825 from Aircraft Spruce and it does a beautiful job. Rivets are now rolled over tight against the backing plates. Easy-peasy like my triplet granddaughters say. Continuous learning process I guess...

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Jim Stricker
Hinckley, Ohio
EAA #499867
PPL/ASEL 1970 - Sport Pilot since 2007
80 hrs Flying Aeronca Chief 11AC
1130 hrs Flying 46 Piper J-3 Cub
RV-12 E-LSA #120058 AWC Jul 2012 - Bought Flying Oct 2015 with 48TT - Hobbs now 406

LSRM-A Certificate 2016
Special Thanks to EJ Trucks

Last edited by Piper J3 : 10-22-2018 at 06:56 PM.
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