Best method to replace the rod bushing

Hello,
Anyone knows the best way to replace the connecting rods small end bushing?

Thanks,
Filipe

The process is outlined in the overhaul manual. Section 7-52 in the copy I have.

On a lark I added up the cost of all the tools and gauges they recommended. Only $44,951. I did not forget a decimal point..

jacoby said:

The process is outlined in the overhaul manual. Section 7-52 in the copy I have.

On a lark I added up the cost of all the tools and gauges they recommended. Only $44,951. I did not forget a decimal point..

Click to expand...

Without looking at the manual, I'd have thought:

Pull the cylinder, pull the piston, unbolt the con-rod from the crank, save and mark the bearings for possible re-use. Send the con-rod to a certified shop to be rebushed, inspect and reassemble using new connecting rod bolts.

Clearly, I'd be wrong, huh?

most places only charge $50 to re-bush. No point doing it yourself. The bushing has to be reamed to size AFTER installation of the bushing in the rod. I believe the bushings are just pressed in with basic tools, though it may require heating of the rod (never looked into it) If you have the appropriate reamers and inside mic's it shouldn't be hard for a decent machinist. Not a job I would recommend for an amateur. Parallelism is important for this job and would require a mill or other tooling to to accomodate.

Larry

This is a job for a machine shop equipped to do it, not something you can correctly do at home. As mentioned it has to be reamed to size when done, tolerences and dimensions here are very close. Ship the rod off and have it reconditioned and yellow tagged.
Tim Andres

Kyle Boatright said:

Without looking at the manual, I'd have thought:

Pull the cylinder, pull the piston, unbolt the con-rod from the crank, save and mark the bearings for possible re-use. Send the con-rod to a certified shop to be rebushed, inspect and reassemble using new connecting rod bolts.

Clearly, I'd be wrong, huh?

Click to expand...

No. That is what I would do as well. Even in an automotive situation, that bushing is critical to install correctly and requires thousands of dollars in equipment to do right. This is not something you can do in your shed with a hammer and a hand drill. It's cheap enough to get a shop to do it.

I'll let OP look up the SSP1776 spec for limits but the tolerances are tight.

Also don't forget about the recent AD on the part..

However, OP is in Portugal where finding a shop may be difficult. I doubt he will find someone willing to publicly recommend anything contrary to Lycoming's instructions.

Thanks to all. I will try to find a profissional shop that can do the job.

Thanks,
Filipe