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Slider canopy replacement

rstisser

Active Member
I am about to bite the bullet and replace the plastic on my 6A slider canopy. I have repaired a large crack in the top center twice and last winter it cracked a third time. I bought the replacement canopy over a year ago so now it's really going to happen. July is here and it is surely warm enough to make it work well. I am considering not putting the center strip back on top and not riveting the plexi to the top rail. I have seen some done this way and liked the simplicity of it plus that is where my crack began. Any input from those with experience would be appreciated. Thanks in advance Randy
 
The key is to make sure the plexi fits the frame and mounts with no pushing or pulling required. Shim as necessary to get the correct fit.

Sikaflex seems to be a good solution, but I did mine the conventional way and it has held up for 18+ years. I can't tell you Sika is better or worse.

Good luck. I'm sure replacing a canopy is a rotten job.
 
Not true. Quite a few builders who used Sikaflex have reported cracking. Best you check the VansAirforce archives.

Well, I’m sure there’s exceptions to every situation, but I think as a general rule people have much better luck avoiding any cracking using Sika as compared to drilling holes and riveting. I can only speak from personal experience with my first -7 along with observing five or six years of Sika bonding on my buddy’s -7.....but we may have just gotten lucky!:) I’m definitely Sika bonding the canopy on my current -7 build as well.
 
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How are the rear skirts attached when you use sikaflex?

You lay-up your own fiberglass and form them up. Some people may still use the aluminum skirts, but there may still be some drilling and riveting involved with that method; I?m not sure. Do a search for ?Sika?... there?s lots of very good threads on the subject.
 
How are the rear skirts attached when you use sikaflex?

I just Sikaflexed the canopy on my -7A, highly recommend. If you want to see some pictures go to my thread here starting at post 376. You can also use Sika to attached the skirts. I am going to do rear and side skirts all laid in one go. So in that case you get sikaflex and rivets into the side bows to secure it.
 
Since I already have rear and side skirts I will stick to rivets. Back to my original question of not installing the top center aluminum strip. Anyone have thoughts on that?
 
I don't think it's a structural issue but I'd worry about water leakage both in-flight and on the ground and additional wind noise.
 
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