1) You will appreciate the additional access to the R-00910 Horn Brace that is offered when the forward 8 eight holes on the R-00918 Attach Strip are left open. BTW, a longeron yoke
is great for the AN470AD4-6s.
2) Step 5 calls out that you should rivet the remaining holes in the lower edge of the skins common to the attach strips and horn brace
. I take that to mean "skins to common to the attach strips" and
"skins common to the horn brace".
3. Yes. That guy can be tough. I have a no hole yoke
that I ground down for even tighter access. Here's that no hole yoke being used differently (in preparation for use to dimple the aft-most holes on the attach strips for the R-911 Rudder Bottom Fairing: male dimple die, female pull die and washer). In that picture below, you can see where I ground it down to fit into really tight spots. It should be clear how it can easily handle those aft rivets on the attach strip in Section 9 and later when you need to rivet the nutplates for the R-911 Rudder Bottom Fairing on page 12-02.
All of the posts detailing my first attempt at the rudder can be found here
. I messed up the trailing edge as shown below (the rudder has its forward edge down on the table, so you're looking down the trailing edge).
So 3.5 years later and with exactly 2,208.8 hours of experience under my belt, I built a second rudder
(a whole lot quicker than the first one). It came out perfect. It's amazing what experience can produce.