Rivet direction on wing rear spar and reinf. fork

Ready to rivet the rear wing spar reinf. fork to the rear wing spar. I want to follow the rule to put the manufactured head on the thinnest material (rear spar), but all the build logs I visit put the manufactured head on the thickest material (reinf. fork).

If I put the manufactured head on the spar will I pay the price later?

The following links show my favoite site links that show the manufactured head on the reinf. fork instaed of the spar.
http://www.rvproject.com/20020512.html
http://www.rv7plane.com/wings/wings03_20_04.htm
http://www.rv7factory.com/log/051101.html

What gives? I'm I missing something?
These 3 respected builders did'nt follow the first rule I use to determine rivet direstion.
Cool.

thelynns said:

Ready to rivet the rear wing spar reinf. fork to the rear wing spar. I want to follow the rule to put the manufactured head on the thinnest material (rear spar), but all the build logs I visit put the manufactured head on the thickest material (reinf. fork).

If I put the manufactured head on the spar will I pay the price later?

The following links show my favoite site links that show the manufactured head on the reinf. fork instaed of the spar.
http://www.rvproject.com/20020512.html
http://www.rv7plane.com/wings/wings03_20_04.htm
http://www.rv7factory.com/log/051101.html

What gives? I'm I missing something?
These 3 respected builders did'nt follow the first rule I use to determine rivet direstion.
Cool.

Click to expand...

There really is no "rule." It's more of a suggestion. There are times when access makes the decision for you. All things being equal, sure, why not put the thing on the thinnest material.

But here's the thing: why make it more difficult for yourself? By putting the manufactured head on the outside of the spar, you can just shoot it with a straight rivet set. If you put it on the inside, there are going to be some spots where you'll need a double offset.

Now, I don't necessarily recommend planning based on the possi bility something will go wrong, but I can tell you I was pretty darned glad I put the rivet head on the doubler when this little project came along.

YMMV

in this application

i dont think it matters because its a sheet you are riveting to more or less.
what will happen is the rib flange will lift and distort possibly. it doesnt matter either way is fine, people want to put the manufactured head out for appearance. the spar is .040 iirc so it doesnt affect it.

Rivet direction on wing rear spar and reinf. fork.

Thanks for the input gang.
Hey, if you read this post can you do a quick reply and specify if you put the manufactured head on the spar or reinf. plate?

You know, I like the appearance of the shop head better then the manufactured head. If all is equal I'll make the shop head visable.

Cool.

Now after reading the post that Bob added I went down and started to worry about the 5/8 rule. When does this apply? Is it when mating the wings? I worry that the reinforcement plate may not be big enough on mine. All I did was to measure the plan with a ruler at 1/2 scale and transfer the measurements to the plate. There are no measurements on the drawing to actually use and the plan says to look at Plan #38 but I see no measurements on that page and besides it says its for a rv 9 and not the 7. What gives? Did I do something wrong by just measuring the dimentions on the plan and doubling them, since it was 1/2 scale or are there a set of absolute measurements I should have used? Can the 5/8 rule come into play when drilling the hole to mate up the wing? I just want to make sure my plate isn't to small. Anybody have an answer for me?

are you talking about the edge distance on the rear fork when mating? It's in the instructions. It's one of THE most critical measurements on the plane. And what you'll find when you mate your wings is that it's a surprisingly small box where drilling will keep you out of edge-distance problems on all three parts that are involved.

On this particular rule, there are no exceptions.

But the chances are when you trimmed your plate, you did it fine. I indicated where I went wrong in that article:







I measured the 19/32" from the wrong spot (the point where the plate tapers). It robbed me of about 1/32 or 1/16 on the plate, just enough to violate edge distance.

Now, again, in terms of your original post, I realize not everyone has the trouble I had and not everyone goes to the trouble of fixing it that I went to (as evidence by the fact these pages are the only ones that exist on the Internet as far as I know of HOW to fix it), but still, if you put the shop head on the plate...my rivet removal tool wouldn't have worked. Granted you'd be sacrificing the plate anyway and you could grind the shop heads off and then pound it out, but that's even more of a pain in the neck in a pain-in-the-neck process.... but you'll also have your gap brace on there and I presume you want ALL the rivets in this area to look the same (either all shop heads or ALL manufactured heads) because it sounds like this is important to you. But that will be very difficult to accomplish.