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"Switch Strip" question

az_gila

az_gila

Well Known Member
I actually like the idea of the plans "switch strip" (Steins' terminology...:).. actually F-1003B) under the removable parts of the panel, but I would like to make it a bit deeper to accommodate rocker type switches.

Question - would a new fabricated strip with an extra 1 inch added to the bottom cause any leg room problems.

I would use the same panel (F10105) for the engine control knobs, but probably make it about 1/2 inch less deep. Would it cause any problems if the engine controls are lowered about 1/2 inch from stock?


All of above related to equipment positioning for the present wiring planning.
 
While an inch might create knee impact issues, I'd guess a bigger concern will be the stick hitting it. Most stick grips require the stick be cut as much as possible to get clearance. An apron extending lower may not be possible.

I used standard toggle switch breakers (Tyco W31) along the bottom, as well as locking toggle switches for stuff that does not need a switch breaker (both master switches, both left and right vital busses, igntion switches, etc.). This has worked out well in this plane and the last one. This supports the panel coming out as a unit in just a few minutes. This eliminates the "upside down" under the panel time.

One caveat- I never liked rocker switches so never tried to build a panel to use them.

Carl
 
az_gila said:
I actually like the idea of the plans "switch strip" (Steins' terminology...:).. actually F-1003B) under the removable parts of the panel, but I would like to make it a bit deeper to accommodate rocker type switches.

Question - would a new fabricated strip with an extra 1 inch added to the bottom cause any leg room problems.

I would use the same panel (F10105) for the engine control knobs, but probably make it about 1/2 inch less deep. Would it cause any problems if the engine controls are lowered about 1/2 inch from stock?


All of above related to equipment positioning for the present wiring planning.
Click to expand...

The following photo is of Rob Hickman's panel using a Aerosport Products Carbon Fiber Panel.

310-rob.jpg


All of the Aerosport Product panels are lower than the factory panel. An inch really isn't a big deal. I've got Geoff's original panel in my RV-10.

There are some mods to the stick and you need to put in control stops in the tail to ensure you don't hit the panel. Basically, cut off a couple inches off the rear of the stick, which will bring the stick more aft. I've also got the Infinity grips, so I also cut down the top of the stick as well.

If you've not visited Geoff's website, as a new RV-10 builder, I would encourage you to do so.
 
rleffler said:
The following photo is of Rob Hickman's panel using a Aerosport Products Carbon Fiber Panel.

....

All of the Aerosport Product panels are lower than the factory panel. An inch really isn't a big deal. I've got Geoff's original panel in my RV-10.

There are some mods to the stick and you need to put in control stops in the tail to ensure you don't hit the panel. Basically, cut off a couple inches off the rear of the stick, which will bring the stick more aft. I've also got the Infinity grips, so I also cut down the top of the stick as well.

If you've not visited Geoff's website, as a new RV-10 builder, I would encourage you to do so.
Click to expand...

Yes, I've checked out the Aerosport stuff and will probably use a lot of their parts. However, I still prefer the flat stock panel. :)

At the moment I think the Ray Allen G-307 sticks look good.
 
The stick isn't an issue, but I am relatively long legged for my height. With an extra inch onto the stock panel I would have to be more careful entering the cockpit. Still doable but I didn't want switches where I could possibly bump them while getting in or out. I mocked it up then chose against it, however I have seen it done lots of times.
I did form a piece of .040 into an angle and dropped it in the center of the panel for my engine and prop controls. I liked that better than the stock center divider.
 
JonJay said:
Sorry Gil, disregard. For some reason I had your 6 on the brain, not the 10.
Click to expand...

No problem. I know some folks used extended panels in the -6s but I think the standard depth one is more comfortable and that's what I went with on my -6A.
 
Plenty of leg room, controls fix

Gil,

Based on my seating position in the RV-10, there is plenty of leg clearance to make a lower panel extension of 1 inch or so. No issue from that point of view.

As to the stick hitting switches. I cut my stick down both top and bottom to gain clearance for the grip and still was hitting the panel at full down. I am using a Tosten CS-8 grip. The mounting stud tips the grip distinctly forward causing the top of the grip to contact the lower panel. To correct the problem, I was not comfortable changing the throw of the elevators with a limit stop, or increasing the bend in the control stick. I also thought about cutting and re-welding the top of the stick at a different angle and decided the powder coat was too nice to burn up with welding.
I machined new adaptors with an 18 degree rearward angle to the center hole where the grip stud inserts. I now have 1” clearance to al switch tips allowing full movement without my knuckles contacting the switches. (that solution will work with any length panel)
Here is the link to photos: http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=leok&project=2446&category=12452&log=240151&row=1
 
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Leok,

I really like your machined adapters, did you do them on a lathe and CNC or just sanding and grinding by hand?

Lynn

leok said:
Gil,

Based on my seating position in the RV-10, there is plenty of leg clearance to make a lower panel extension of 1 inch or so. No issue from that point of view.

As to the stick hitting switches. I cut my stick down both top and bottom to gain clearance for the grip and still was hitting the panel at full down. I am using a Tosten CS-8 grip. The mounting stud tips the grip distinctly forward causing the top of the grip to contact the lower panel. To correct the problem, I was not comfortable changing the throw of the elevators with a limit stop, or increasing the bend in the control stick. I also thought about cutting and re-welding the top of the stick at a different angle and decided the powder coat was too nice to burn up with welding.
I machined new adaptors with an 18 degree rearward angle to the center hole where the grip stud inserts. I now have 1? clearance to al switch tips allowing full movement without my knuckles contacting the switches. (that solution will work with any length panel)
Here is the link to photos: http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=leok&project=2446&category=12452&log=240151&row=1
Click to expand...
 
Lynnb said:
Leok,

I really like your machined adapters, did you do them on a lathe and CNC or just sanding and grinding by hand?

Lynn
Click to expand...


Lynn,

I have a lathe and mill in my shop. I turned the adaptors to diameter on the lathe with a heavier top flange (to accommodate the angle). Then mounted them in an angle vise at 18 degrees, milled the top surface and drilled the center hole. They took about 30 minutes each. It took about the same to drill and tap for set screws to fasten in place on the stick.

Let me know if you need a pair. No problem making another set.
 
I can do that

Bob,

Sure, I can make you up a set. I can make them at 18 degrees, or if you want to measure the angle you need and let me know. PM me you address.

Gil,

Sorry for the thread hijack. If you need a set, let me know.

Lynn,

Likewise, let me know.
Perhaps Tosten will see this thread and decide to offer sets so others can use their grips without hitting the panel. (even an undrilled adapter with a thicker land would work. let people angle and drill their own)
 
leok said:
....
Gil,

Sorry for the thread hijack. If you need a set, let me know.

...
Click to expand...

No problem, it's all good information being collected and disseminated...:)

I think I will go "old school" and simply use good toggle switches just like the switch strip was designed for, with a bracket at each end so it can be easily replaced in the future if needed.

After building the -6A I noticed that every change/deviation from standard takes time and extra effort - and more than expected. This is one area where it can remain basically standard and lower my completion time. :D
 
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I predict a slew of "orders," Leo. Better set a shop rate and let us know; this could take you away from actual building for awhile.

I'm going with the InfinityAerospace grips that were included in my secondhand kit. Don't think your adapter applies, though the same problem presents itself.
 
Photo?

Gil,

I think I know what you are planning but do you have a picture or link to a photo of the switch strip? On my 6 I put standard toggle switches along the bottom of the stock panel. I was planning something similar on my 10.

Thanks,

Jim
 
Jimd said:
Gil,

I think I know what you are planning but do you have a picture or link to a photo of the switch strip? On my 6 I put standard toggle switches along the bottom of the stock panel. I was planning something similar on my 10.

Thanks,

Jim
Click to expand...

No pics of mine yet... I'm still evaluating exactly where the build process I am at for the half-finished QB kit I bought, along with clearing out and re-arranging the hangar to get working space.

Anyone want to buy a 1977 Tiger? :)

Here is a pic. showing installed switches on the switch strip, shamelessly stolen from a previous post on VAF -

fin_192.jpg


With a VPX I think I need fewer switches and stuff than shown and only 2 CBs.

Left Side - 8 items only -- Master - Fuel Boost - Strobes - Nav Lts - Landing Lt - Taxi Lt - Alt Fld CB - AP CB

Right Side - not fixed yet, but park brake - heating/ventilation controls - panel/interior lights control

Much less than shown in the picture.
 
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I appreciate the offer, right now I still think I'm going to be ok, from the measurements I've done and cutting down the sticks. If that changes I'll let you know.

Thanks for the info,
Lynn

leok said:
Bob,

Sure, I can make you up a set. I can make them at 18 degrees, or if you want to measure the angle you need and let me know. PM me you address.

Gil,

Sorry for the thread hijack. If you need a set, let me know.

Lynn,

Likewise, let me know.
Perhaps Tosten will see this thread and decide to offer sets so others can use their grips without hitting the panel. (even an undrilled adapter with a thicker land would work. let people angle and drill their own)
Click to expand...
 
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