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  #11  
Old 12-22-2011, 10:52 AM
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panhandler1956 panhandler1956 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ohio
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Default Wish I would have

I didn't put in the seat heat and after flying on a couple of days with OAT around 20F I regret not doing it!
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  #12  
Old 12-22-2011, 11:22 AM
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islandmonkey islandmonkey is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironflight View Post
Looks from Mehrdad's switch pictures that we out the same device in our new RV-3. I can check the current consumption next week when we are in the hangar, but if I recall correctly, it's somewhere between three and five amps.

I have used the heater sitting in the hangar on a cool Houston day (40 degrees) setting up avionics (with external power on the airplane), and it is quite toasty!
Hey Paul, Thanks for the speedy reply. That's about 36 to to 60 watts. I would have thought the current consumption would be more but on further contemplation, it sounds about right. I must think about installing seat heaters in my 4 as that current consumption is acceptable and I would not need to go to a big alternator to drive them.
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  #13  
Old 12-22-2011, 11:41 AM
Berchmans Berchmans is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
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Thanks for all the input...there is no way my wife would be happy with anything less than a warm seat. I have seat heat in my truck and she loves it. Some great ideas on how to run it. Up here OAT's of zero or below are fairly common in the winter as you can guess...if the wifes not happy, no one is happy...
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  #14  
Old 12-22-2011, 12:07 PM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironflight View Post
Looks from Mehrdad's switch pictures that we out the same device in our new RV-3. I can check the current consumption next week when we are in the hangar, but if I recall correctly, it's somewhere between three and five amps.

I have used the heater sitting in the hangar on a cool Houston day (40 degrees) setting up avionics (with external power on the airplane), and it is quite toasty!
Paul,
If I am not mistaking, it is 3A on low setting and 5A on high settings. The low settings is usually enough even for my wife but we donít live or fly in super cold environments.

Happy holidays to every one
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  #15  
Old 12-22-2011, 10:29 PM
Joe Joe is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Independence, OR
Posts: 353
Default RV-8A Seat Heaters

Quote:
Originally Posted by Berchmans View Post
My question to the group is what have you done for both the control switch and the breakers? ... Photos would be greatly appreciated...
No breakers in my installation -- I wired each seat to its own 7.5A fuse on the Master Bus. After tracing out the schematic, I discarded nearly all the PVC-insulated wiring and rewired it with Tefzel aircraft wire of appropriate lengths. For the included relay I discarded its plastic socket and used 1/4" Faston terminals to connect to it. The switch required 3/16" Fastons. When finished the installation was a good deal lighter and cleaner. I can save you some work: email me if you'd like a schematic diagram.

For the forward seat, I mounted the Hi-OFF-Lo switch and relay in the upper right console (along with my lighting controls).



I did something similar for the aft seat on the right side of the fuselage.



Here you can see the switch and relay wiring which are hidden by covers in my installation.

I ordered these seat heaters direct from the manufacturer and am very pleased with them. Each pair of heater elements (one seat) draws no more than 5A in "Hi" (both elements in parallel) and about half that in "Lo" (both elements in series). I've been using one in my Long-EZ for a couple of years now and wonder how I ever managed without it.
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  #16  
Old 12-23-2011, 03:04 PM
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vfrazier vfrazier is offline
 
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Location: Mount Vernon, IN
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Quote:
I ordered these seat heaters direct from the manufacturer and am very pleased with them.
Aw, Joe.... yer killing me. I buy from him in bulk and his price is still slightly higher than mine! Only $0.05, but I'm here all the time!

BTW, these seat heaters are rated at 6 amps per seat on HIGH. Someone asked earlier.

Support your friendly RV vendors! (So we can avgas!)

Thanks,
Vince
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  #17  
Old 12-24-2011, 03:17 PM
Joe Joe is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Independence, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfrazier View Post
... Support your friendly RV vendors! (So we can avgas!) ...
That must be the "royal we", Vince, as opposed to "you" and "me" because I don't see how I "can avgas" on the purchase.

The factory offered me a good deal on shipping and delivered promptly. That said, I did buy a seat heater from you (for my Long-EZ) a while back.

--
Joe
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  #18  
Old 12-24-2011, 05:05 PM
chaskuss chaskuss is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: SE Florida
Posts: 1,271
Default NEVER trust the advertising department!

Quote:
Originally Posted by islandmonkey View Post
Hey Paul, Thanks for the speedy reply. That's about 36 to to 60 watts. I would have thought the current consumption would be more but on further contemplation, it sounds about right. I must think about installing seat heaters in my 4 as that current consumption is acceptable and I would not need to go to a big alternator to drive them.
Tony,
If you REALLY need more than 45 amps, the small [30 to 60 amp rated, including the PP unit] ND alternators are not the way to go. Due to limited available space, the rectifier diodes are not up to supplying over 45 amps for more than a few seconds time. They will overheat and fail. For those who are electrically challenged, the 6 diodes in the rear of the alternator form a "bridge" rectifier. This rectifier converts the AC current to a useable DC current. Each failed diode will decrease power output by 1/6th of rated power. The diodes in the "small" 60 amp ND alternator are the same size as those in the 30 amp model. See

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...nso+alternator

Charlie
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  #19  
Old 12-24-2011, 05:29 PM
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Sparky Sparky is offline
 
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Location: Perham, MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe View Post
No breakers in my installation -- I wired each seat to its own 7.5A fuse on the Master Bus. After tracing out the schematic, I discarded nearly all the PVC-insulated wiring and rewired it with Tefzel aircraft wire of appropriate lengths. For the included relay I discarded its plastic socket and used 1/4" Faston terminals to connect to it...
I did the same thing on my RV-7, except I also discarded the relays supplied and used the same ones (B&C P/N S704-1 / Potter & Brumsfield P/N T9AP5D52-12) I used for the rest of the electrical system (Standby Alternator, EBUS Aux Feed, Brownout relay, etc.). That way, if one of the more critical relays fails, I can always use one of the seat heat relays as a spare to replace the more critical relay to get me home. By the way, I used 10A fuses on the Main Bus (Aeroelectric Z10-8 architecture) and AWG 18 gauge wire.

Here's a schematic of my seat heat system:


Edit: Oh, and I also added a spike suppression diode (1N4001) across the coil of each of the relays to help increase the longevity of the seat heat switches (the original harness did not include these, and they're not totally necessary, but I would recommend adding them).
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Last edited by Sparky : 12-24-2011 at 08:20 PM.
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  #20  
Old 12-24-2011, 07:14 PM
Joe Joe is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Independence, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky View Post
... Here's a schematic of my seat heat system: ...
Nicely done, Paul. But then, I wouldn't have expected anything less from a Sparky (E.E.) <g>.

That P&B T9AP5D52-12 relay is inexpensive and an excellent part.

--
Joe
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Joe Dubner
RV-8A
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Last edited by Joe : 01-23-2019 at 03:59 PM.
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