VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

  #1  
Old 01-04-2019, 04:36 PM
Berchmans Berchmans is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 423
Default Infinity Grips

I am installing the Garmin GTX345 in/out in my RV8 and am going to take to opportunity to change things up a bit. I am going to install the Infinity Stick Grip and was looking for some input on stick functions. Currently I have the Flaps and Elevator Trim on Ray Allen rocker switches on the panel and was thinking of relocating to the stick. I also have the Smoke Helper smoke system and have that installed on the throttle, think I will leave it where it is. Thoughts on other functions handy to move to the stick?

Also if I install aft Infinity stick thinking of only putting PTT and Elevator on it...

How did you do it? and would you do it again?
__________________
Burke Wick
Flying RV 8
Anchorage, Alaska
VAF Dues Paid for 2019
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-04-2019, 04:54 PM
DaveO DaveO is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Greenfield, IN
Posts: 290
Default

I added all that you are doing, though no evevator, plus, autopilot off, and I put the starter on mine. I know many who would not put the starter on, but I found it ok. I think on the left side of the stick as I remember. But you have options.
Best to your decision.
__________________
Dave

RV-7A N1243A Sold
#140479 RV-14A N1479B Reserved
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-04-2019, 06:11 PM
Tankerpilot75 Tankerpilot75 is online now
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 358
Default I used Tosten grips

When I converted from manual trim to electric trim I also went from a three button function Ray Allen grip to a military style six function button Tosten grip. I preferred the Tosten grip to the infinity grips because of the way they attached to the stick. I found Kevin at Tosten very easy and helpful to work with.

My Tosten grips are configured for: coolie hat switch - aileron and elevator trim; left top button - comm 1 freq swap; right top switch - flaps; trigger switch - PTT; small button switch below trigger switch - transponder ident; thumb button - autopilot. The copilot’s grip differs from the pilot’s grip in that in that the right button on it is comm1/comm2 transmit swap. I didn’t want the copilot position accidentally extending/retracting flaps on me and figured they could talk to Flight Watch on comm2 when I was using comm1 for ATC.

If you’re going to have electric trim on the grips you need to also install and wire up a trim control board so you don’t accidentally have a copilot cancel out a pilot trim input. This control board can also help with bringing all the other wiring issues into one central control center. For that purpose I used Pat Hatch’s UTRB board and installed it under the copilot’s seat.

All these “functions” on my panel (and I believe most avionics) are “ground to activate.” You need to look at the wiring on your avionics to confirm this. On my panel there was one exception to this rule and that was my “flap switch” on my grip. The flap control switch on my panel was routed using “the positive side for activation” so that switch had to be wired differently. Kevin at Tosten grips rewired my grip flap switch to accommodate this issue for me when it was discovered.

I cannot speak highly enough of both Pat Hatch and Kevin. Pat especially worked very hard with me via email and a few phone calls to help with the wiring issues and multiple questions I had.

https://postimg.cc/1nkDczz2
__________________
Jim Harris, RV7A, 2nd owner, N523RM
IO-360, Hartzel CS prop, Older Aerotronics built panel Dual GRT Horizon WS, GRT EIS, Garmin 340, 335, Dual 430s, FlightBox hard wired to WS, Dynon D10A with internal battery (backup EFIS)
Retired - Living the dream - And going broke!

Last edited by Tankerpilot75 : 01-04-2019 at 06:49 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-04-2019, 06:30 PM
SmilingJack's Avatar
SmilingJack SmilingJack is online now
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Naples,FL
Posts: 997
Default

I have an Infinty grip in front and in back. Both have the same functions so I have a backup if one grip were to fail (e.g. - starter sw).

Coolie Hat - Roll and Pitch trim
Left top is the starter button
Left of the coolie hat is a flap SW
Thumb below the flap switch is Auto Pilot disconnect/ TCS
Pinker SW is my Fuel Pump
Trigger SW is my PTT

I also installed 2 isolation switches for the rear stick in case I have a novice back there.

1 enables the coolie and flaps
1 enables the fuel pump, auto pilot disconnect and starter
I also have a MASTER start shut off switch to protect the stick button after start and in flight.

Yes! I would do it again! I love it!
__________________
John Mastro
RV-8
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-04-2019, 07:18 PM
Paul K Paul K is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Comstock Park, MI
Posts: 928
Default

My exact set up and I love it! Wouldn't change anything.
__________________
Paul K
West Michigan

Unfortunately in science, what you believe is irrelevant.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-05-2019, 04:58 AM
YellerDaisy's Avatar
YellerDaisy YellerDaisy is offline
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Mountain Southwest
Posts: 144
Default

I have only a few months with it but I wired my grip with the 'Ultimate Trim Relay Board" from PH Aviation (https://www.phaviation.com/products/...imate-trb-hub/). I believe that greatly simplified the installation. My grip functions are the same as SmilingJack's though I don't have all of them operational yet.
__________________
JD
RV-4 - O-320
RV-3B - O-320 - "Daisy" (sold)
http://jdfinley.com
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-05-2019, 06:27 AM
Capt Capt is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 266
Default

I have my infinity set up with coolly hat, a/p disconnect, r/t, flap, fuel,pump & ldg lights. I didn't build mine and thought at the time bit of an overkill the setup but I wouldn't change a thing now I've flown it for 50 hrs, love having all the flight control switches at my fingertips My rear stick (8) is a shaped wooden affair wth a Cooley hat and r/t button, flap is a toggle switch to one side of the fuse side. We each have our preferences
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-05-2019, 06:36 AM
Saville's Avatar
Saville Saville is offline
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: KBVY Massachusetts
Posts: 856
Default

Switching to an Infinity grip is one of my ongoing projects as well. I plan to have:

PTT
Flaps up and down (switch left of the coolie hat)
Auto pilot disconnect
Coolie hat forward and back is pitch trim.

Part of this upgrade will also be another PTT switch at the end of the throttle grip.

I have the Pat Hatch UTRB.

Not sure if I'll put the PTT on the stick trigger. I am thinking of a Raspberry Pi camera system where camera stores video data only when a switch is depressed.

I'm wiring things up on the workbench to get the wiring organized and test the relay card.

I also have a few things to work out. Such as...

Tankerpilot75 wrote:

"For that purpose I used Pat Hatch’s UTRB board and installed it under the copilot’s seat."

Did you mount it to the seat sheet metal?

Did you encase it in a plastic box?

Most plastic electronics boxes I see have the top come off the main body. I think the ideal enclosure would be one where the top is bolted to the airplane and the PC board is bolted to the top via standoffs. And the "tub" portion of the box is then bolted onto the "top" and is the first thing removed - revealing the PC board on it's standoffs. Haven't seen any such box.
__________________
Flying RV-8 N880BC
2019 Dues - happily paid.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-05-2019, 02:42 PM
Tankerpilot75 Tankerpilot75 is online now
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 358
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Saville View Post

Tankerpilot75 wrote:

"For that purpose I used Pat Hatch’s UTRB board and installed it under the copilot’s seat."

Did you mount it to the seat sheet metal?

Did you encase it in a plastic box?
.
I built a bracket/shelf out of spare aluminum, covered the bracket/shelf with some vinyl to protect against accidental shorting and mounted it between two ribs. I also installed two insulated electrical blocks to facilitate ground and power needs. The power block is on its own CB and powers the UTRB and my trim motors. The ground block provides grounding for the same. My numerous wires were brought together, labeled and then encased in shrink tubing before running them into the 25 pin d-sub pin connector.

The UTRB board is designed so that when you mount it on something flat it will sit high enough to prevent it from touching the mounting bracket but I went ahead and covered mine anyway. Probably a better idea would be to cut out a hole in your bracket just large enough to facilitate cooling yet still provide support to the board.
__________________
Jim Harris, RV7A, 2nd owner, N523RM
IO-360, Hartzel CS prop, Older Aerotronics built panel Dual GRT Horizon WS, GRT EIS, Garmin 340, 335, Dual 430s, FlightBox hard wired to WS, Dynon D10A with internal battery (backup EFIS)
Retired - Living the dream - And going broke!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-05-2019, 03:53 PM
Saville's Avatar
Saville Saville is offline
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: KBVY Massachusetts
Posts: 856
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tankerpilot75 View Post
Probably a better idea would be to cut out a hole in your bracket just large enough to facilitate cooling yet still provide support to the board.
Hmm ......cooling. Didn't realize that temps were a factor and that the board could get hot.

Thanks!
__________________
Flying RV-8 N880BC
2019 Dues - happily paid.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:09 PM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.