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Rudder damage-repair or replace?

Flyer2017

Active Member
Last week, we were on our way from Logan, UT - KLGU to the AOPA Fly-in at KMSO and stopped overnight to visit a friend in Lewiston, ID - KLWS. The plane was parked and tied down with rudder, aileron and elevator locks in place when a big storm came thru overnight in the opposite direction of the usual prevailing wind (from the tail of the plane). The gust lock (a u-shaped wire) was turned into a pretzel and the wire severed at the rudder. The rudder suffered a hole on the left side from being driven against the elevator and a dent on the right from the same problem. The bottom six rivets in the trailing edge were ripped loose leaving the holes on the left larger than those on the right so it can't just be riveted back together. We patched it up enough to get back to KLGU but the question now is whether to repair the damage or just order a new rudder kit and replace the rudder? We didn't build the plane so building a rudder would be a first effort. It is flyable now with Gorilla tape over the hole and temporary bolts to hold the trailing edge together. Reskining seems like more work than building new. Advice??
 
Buy

I had a similar incident and I was able to find an acceptable rudder already built. There are more tail kits than airplanes.

On the other hand, building the rudder is fairly easy if you have the hand tools and would be educational.
 
The rudder is the easiest, and cheapest, component on the airplane to build. It's also the first component built in the kit for a reason - it's relatively forgiving of mistakes, fairly easy to build, and cheap to replace if you completely hose it up. For a first-time building experience you would be hard-pressed to pick a better component than the rudder.
 
Please check carefully for other damage, impact point on the elevators, and rudder hinge mounting points come to mind.
 
It is only a month to AirVenture. I'm all for buying a built rudder or building a new one if I can do it by then. I'm at KLGU in Logan Utah and would love to find someone that could give some guidance who lives nearby. I talked to Vans and they said that temporarily patching the dents/holes and putting doublers and new rivets on the trailing edge would probably get me flying but a new rudder would obviously be better. There is no "kit" so I'm making a list of parts from the drawing. Anyone know of a rudder already built that is for sale? Thanks
 
Anyone know of a rudder already built that is for sale? Thanks

If you can wait until Airventure, show up with some cash and you can probably fly home with a new rudder. Odds are good someone will have one. And if not, place your parts order with Vans on location before you leave.
 
Same damage

I had the same damage to my RV7A rudder in Australia. Even including freight building a new rudder was the easiest and cheapest way to fix it. Not only was the damage to the skin, but the rudder was twisted. I didn't see the damage on a preflight, don't know how I missed that when I did see it, and the plane had a strong yaw. Usually use right rudder for takeoff, but this was insane..... needed full right rudder just to stay straight.

Replaced rudder with a new one, took a weekend to build and a weekend to paint to match. As the original was the first thing I built, and now the new rudder is the last thing built, the build quality is much better. I no longer need a wedge to keep the ball in the centre.

All the advice I got here from the local tech councillors was just rebuild, it'll be quicker and better overall. I have to agree.
 

I agree.... the one from Spruce is actually sold by Anti-Splat Aero (the Ultimate Gust Lock). It is lightweight, locks all three axes, and there's little chance you would take off with it installed. Highly recommended. I always fly with mine. FWIW: The rudder is the first component built by a new inexperienced builder, and the most fragile flight control surface on an RV. It always needs to be protected from gusts.

 
I like the anti-splat gust lock but it will become loose if you don't add some extensions. Even these are not long enough. I plan to make them longer. The extensions fit on top.

gust%20lock%20mod_zpscysbzp4k.jpg
 
I like the anti-splat gust lock but it will become loose if you don't add some extensions. Even these are not long enough. I plan to make them longer. The extensions fit on top.

gust%20lock%20mod_zpscysbzp4k.jpg

?.Feel I need to step in here if you are having a problem like you stated! You don't have the unit adjusted properly if this is taking place, or there is another problem causing this. If properly installed and adjusted to your aircraft, this can not happen! With 1,000 lb. back pull on the stick, the gust-lock will not loosen or come out. We now have about 2500 in service in RVs and this is not a problem. If you like Steve, just give me a call, and I will replace your unit with an un-altered one, and help you with solving the issue you are having. Thanks, Allan..:D
 
I think I'm in Allan Nimmo's camp here, and I believe the issue that Steve may have been seeing was caused by the rudder pedal contact points not bottoming fully on the rudder pedals, likely due to the thickness of the powder coat on the pedal frames. I had this problem initially with my 9A, but after about 5 or 6 installations of the gust lock the contact points had become burnished and it's a firm but full slip-on to the rudder pedals. My continued experience with the gust lock has been excellent.
 
….Feel I need to step in here if you are having a problem like you stated! You don't have the unit adjusted properly if this is taking place, or there is another problem causing this. If properly installed and adjusted to your aircraft, this can not happen! With 1,000 lb. back pull on the stick, the gust-lock will not loosen or come out. We now have about 2500 in service in RVs and this is not a problem. If you like Steve, just give me a call, and I will replace your unit with an un-altered one, and help you with solving the issue you are having. Thanks, Allan..:D

thanks for the offer but I'm OK with it as is except I need to make the extensions a bit longer. what I found is that with a strong gust the downwind side becomes loose and drops off the bar. then if there is a wind reversal the opposite side will drop and the rudder becomes loose. the extensions prevent this from occurring. perhaps mine is not adjusted exactly since I needed to make a new rod since the first one bent because of high winds. I was lucky on that because there was no wind reversal. overall, I'm happy with gust lock.
 
Last edited:
I think I'm in Allan Nimmo's camp here, and I believe the issue that Steve may have been seeing was caused by the rudder pedal contact points not bottoming fully on the rudder pedals, likely due to the thickness of the powder coat on the pedal frames. I had this problem initially with my 9A, but after about 5 or 6 installations of the gust lock the contact points had become burnished and it's a firm but full slip-on to the rudder pedals. My continued experience with the gust lock has been excellent.

Mine was a bit too tight also. I lightly sanded the inside of the radius on the gust lock where it contacts the rudder pedals. I'm happy with it though.
 
Rudder Rebuild

Last week, we were on our way from Logan, UT - KLGU to the AOPA Fly-in at KMSO and stopped overnight to visit a friend in Lewiston, ID - KLWS. The plane was parked and tied down with rudder, aileron and elevator locks in place when a big storm came thru overnight in the opposite direction of the usual prevailing wind (from the tail of the plane). The gust lock (a u-shaped wire) was turned into a pretzel and the wire severed at the rudder. The rudder suffered a hole on the left side from being driven against the elevator and a dent on the right from the same problem. The bottom six rivets in the trailing edge were ripped loose leaving the holes on the left larger than those on the right so it can't just be riveted back together. We patched it up enough to get back to KLGU but the question now is whether to repair the damage or just order a new rudder kit and replace the rudder? We didn't build the plane so building a rudder would be a first effort. It is flyable now with Gorilla tape over the hole and temporary bolts to hold the trailing edge together. Reskining seems like more work than building new. Advice??

This happened to my dad's 7A while he was visiting us from out of state, and I was able to loan him my completed rudder (from my RV-9A project). I ordered in new skins from Vans and then rebuilt it for him after he flew home, and a few months later he flew down again for a visit and we swapped them out. This isn't a big deal, and if you haven't done this before just get with a local guy who has built an RV rudder before, and he/she will probably be happy to show you how to knock it out in short order.

Doug Lomheim
RV-9A / RV-3A sold
 
Storm

I had the Ultimate gust lock on my plane when a storm hit. The winds were gusting to 50kts. I was afraid of what i would find when I got to the plane. The gust lock held but the bar bent a little. It was still usable but hard to slide in and out. I called Antisplat and they send me a new bar right away. No damage to the plane. I highly recommend their gust lock
 
The bottom six rivets in the trailing edge were ripped loose leaving the holes on the left larger than those on the right so it can't just be riveted back together. .... It is flyable now with Gorilla tape over the hole and temporary bolts to hold the trailing edge together.

Returning to the OP's problem...

May I add a caution? Those temporary bolts in the trailing edge shift the rudder's CG aft, decreasing flutter margin, so I'd suggest careful speed limiting until the rudder is replaced.

Oh, and my vote is replace with a new rudder.
 
thanks for all the advice. I just received the AntiSplat Gust Lock and tried it out. Seems pretty solid but I still plan to use the wire rudder gust lock (made a new one). I'm building a new rudder too.
 
thanks for all the advice. I just received the AntiSplat Gust Lock and tried it out. Seems pretty solid but I still plan to use the wire rudder gust lock (made a new one). I'm building a new rudder too.

...If you feel you still need something additional, you need to
adjust your ASA gust lock out another hole. It needs to fit tight
and load in place with considerable pressure on the little pedal.
This pressure should be at least 40 to 50 lbs. Thanks, Allan.:D
 
We now have about 2500 in service in RVs and this is not a problem.

So walking the flight line at OSH in a few weeks, I should see one of these in more than 1 out of every 4 RV's that I look at? :rolleyes:
(not all 10,000 that have flown are still flying.....)
 
So walking the flight line at OSH in a few weeks, I should see one of these in more than 1 out of every 4 RV's that I look at? :rolleyes:
(not all 10,000 that have flown are still flying.....)

?. We manufacture parts, and gust locks for most all experimental aircraft as well as
a line of parts for many certified aircraft. We also manufacture parts and assemblies for
resale by other dealers Etc. Anti-Splat-Aero is a very small outlet as compared to our main
business. So please check all Cessna, Mooney, most Piper and some Beach as well, and
let us know if they are using their gust locks as they should be. If you see any problems
there, please write down the N numbers so we can contact them and offer our help. Wow!
What I would give to have your free time, and for your help with this, we are prepared to
offer you a substantial discount on the product of your choice. Thanks, Allan..:D

P.S. I did make a wording mistake in my post, it should have said gust locks in
service, with about 1350 in RVs. Still pretty good!..:D
 
Gust Locks

Never trusted the bent wire lock for the rudder. Have been flying for many years with small safety wire pliers and a roll of safety wire. I simply safety wire both sides of the rudder 'ears' just like the bent wire, only both sides. It is rigid and solid and doesn't put any stress on the control cables.

Care must be taken to remember to remove it - but then there is a control check in our checklist, right?

Keith
N355RV
RV9-A
 
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