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Don't fix it if it ain't broken, well...

daddyman

Well Known Member
My lights were working just fine.

This breaks one of my big airplane rules- DO NOT FIX IF IT ISN'T BROKEN.

In this case, I couldn't help myself because;
I was hesitant to use my lights near the landing pattern, or in other conditions that could have increased visibility and safety because the previous owner said the electrical system "couldn't keep up with the load". Still not sure if that was the case. Since all things electrical are mysterious to me as Merlyn the Magician, I accepted his words.

So, I took the old lights (landing and taxi) out and replaced them with LED lights.
I had previously changed the landing light bulb for a "higher intensity" one, but couldn't tell the difference when landing at night.

Fast forward to this upgrade.
The following are pictures are from my son and student pilot (read Guy in back) -Buddy.

This is our side by side comparison:

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On the next pic, you can see the "old" version on the left side: (by mistake on the new one taken was the overhead lights off, whereas the original overhead lights on)

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Here is a close up of the part itself:

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I purchased on Amazon as a 12,000 lumen Hikari brand LED H4 replacement for about $90?
I am not compensated in any way by Amazon or the manufacturer.

https://www.amazon.com/HIKARI-Headlight-Conversion-Lumileds-Warranty/dp/B077B3SNJR/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1531785277&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=hikari+h4+12000

I thought they were also cool- literally as they had a built in heat sink and cooling fan behind the bulb.
The other feature that really interested me was the reduced electrical load.
Before: 130/90 W (high beam/low beam)
After: 58 W max?
Also designed to have reduced radio interference!
Claimed to be 270% brighter
VERY long lifespan

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The kit also came with a pre-wired ballast.
This is the installation shot:

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Whole job took less than 1 hr
WARNING: once done, do not look them directly- even in daylight - it will cause pain, and sun spots for 15 min. Insanely bright.

We have yet to night flight test (due to vacation and weather).

I plan on updating post flight testing.

Daddyman and Buddy
yea, dues paid, etc.
 
Looking forward to the test pirep!

Exactly what I am looking for ...keep us posted, as I need to upgrade mine!
 
Very interested to hear how these lights perform from an RF noise perspective. These look like nice easy nearly-drop-in replacements for those with halogen bulbs.
 
Awesome idea. Could you see how many amps they actually draw at 12-14 volts?

A few have a fore/aft adjustment, but are designed for projector halogen replacements, not sure if the $127 SNGL brand fits the H4. If quiet for RFI, they might make the perfect balance of taxi spread and landing spot.

Make sure that crazy light throws far enough with the Hikari or any LEDs.

The main complaints of LED kits are blinding oncomers, not a factor here; poor rain vision because the near throw is so wide you get dazzled by the illuminated rain and finally lack of effective long throw.

I have used the lower power 1800 Lumen spot Rigids that dropped into my PAR 36 leading edge mounts. They equal the normal halogen 55W in throw at night and are spread enough to be ok for taxi. They draw 2 amps each instead of just over 4 amps for halogens, so the Kuntzleman wig wag device tolerates them.
 
I too would like a pilot report for my current ride , not sure if my new Rigid side shooters are going to pan out for my new build , currently having a lot of RFI with them ,hoping a good quality filter fixes it
 
Test Flight last night

Exactly what I am looking for ...keep us posted, as I need to upgrade mine!

Bill,
Great night to test; 1/4 moon, clear skies, no wind.

My impression:
Noticed right away during taxi, much brighter and able to see what I needed to to taxi.
Pattern of illumination was better, a little broader without diffusion.
No radio noise.

During landing- eureka I can see! approximate runway lit at about 140 ft agl.
I was on an ILS approach, and have not calculated the slant range.

This is big improvement as previously I could only see pavement lit during the flare.

My home base is similar in lighting to yours- pretty dark at night. Not impossible, but not comfortable either.

Post change- at about 550 agl I saw a bunch of red lights to the right of the approach end and wondered- what that was.
It was the reflectors on tractors and equipment at the John Deere dealership parking lot. Never saw that before.

Being able to identify and see the runway makes night approaches so much less stressful.

Daddyman
 
no radio noise noted

I too would like a pilot report for my current ride , not sure if my new Rigid side shooters are going to pan out for my new build , currently having a lot of RFI with them ,hoping a good quality filter fixes it

One caveat,
I could clearly hear ATC, but nobody answered my pilot position reports, so I'm not 100% sure I was not emitting static.

Daddyman
 
feedback

Awesome idea. Could you see how many amps they actually draw at 12-14 volts?

A few have a fore/aft adjustment, but are designed for projector halogen replacements, not sure if the $127 SNGL brand fits the H4. If quiet for RFI, they might make the perfect balance of taxi spread and landing spot.

Make sure that crazy light throws far enough with the Hikari or any LEDs.

The main complaints of LED kits are blinding oncomers, not a factor here; poor rain vision because the near throw is so wide you get dazzled by the illuminated rain and finally lack of effective long throw.

I have used the lower power 1800 Lumen spot Rigids that dropped into my PAR 36 leading edge mounts. They equal the normal halogen 55W in throw at night and are spread enough to be ok for taxi. They draw 2 amps each instead of just over 4 amps for halogens, so the Kuntzleman wig wag device tolerates them.

Moosepilet,
I read the manufactures box re: power, but cannot test post installation in my plane.
Daddyman
 
Thank you,

I Youtube searched, most pull 2-3 amps, so about 24-36 watts each at 12V. Some halogen housings are round, some rectangular.

There may be a sweet spot fore/aft if any modding can be done to maximize the throw if needed at its seat in the reflector housing.

The Rigid R36s are RFI silent and $120-ish each. Your option is half that or less. My Nav light LEDs all needed big ferrite clamp chokes and 3 loops of wire through them.

Can Paul at Fly LEDs whip up a PAR36 round and rectangular replacement for legacy halagen Duckworks or factory kits? Looks like he has at least one style: https://flyleds.com/products/#!/Spot-lights-Individuals/p/108852015/category=0
 
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No radio interference post test

One caveat,
I could clearly hear ATC, but nobody answered my pilot position reports, so I'm not 100% sure I was not emitting static.

Daddyman

Me again,
Flown with no audio noise.

Real happy with them as is.

Next fix on them is well beyond my lifespan.

Daddyman
out
 
Only high beam is used. These lights are dual beam (I'm guessing that actually means bright and dim/low beam or high beam is on one or the other is off.). You need to power neutral and high beam positive, the low beam is never powered in our application. The info in the box/package has no polarity pin out for the plug (they assume you are using it on a car). With the prongs on the plug facing you and the center prong on top, neutral /negative is to the left and Positive/high beam is the right prong.

.
 
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I managed to find the answers to my questions. Only the high beams are lit for our use. The H4 / 9003 plug when held so the prongs are pointing at your face, center prong up: left prong is negative, positive to center prong Up is low beam,positive to right prong is high beam.

The metal mount plate is removable by a simple twist and pull if that is a factor. I'll give more detailed info when I install.
 
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See the Light...

David/BB,
Thanks for the informative posts.
My RV4 and RVX have Bob Olds landing lights which use good old WalMart Square plastic automotive halogen headlights. The originals still work after 20+ years probably due to limited use. (Night flying for sport isn't as appealing when you spent 24 years doing it with NVG's. )
Installing LED's will take a bit of engineering however, I've already added them to my favorites list on Amazon...

V/R
Smokey

PS:Now, how do I R&R the old school yellow DRL's on my Toyota Tacoma for some LED's? :)
 
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Hikari LED H4 bulbs

I bought the Hikari H4/9003 LED bulbs. I find out my reflector housing is for H3 halogen bulbs that have a much smaller mount ring that is attached by a screw. I have looked through Duck Works stuff on line and it appears all of their reflectors are designed to take H3 bulbs. Where did your reflectors come from?
 
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This breaks one of my big airplane rules- DO NOT FIX IF IT ISN'T BROKEN.


You're not fixing anything here, you're simply upgrading. But I like the sentiment. I think I need to tell my wife I need to "Fix" my instrument panel!
 
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