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Canopy Fitting - Tip up

lr172

Well Known Member
I finished my canopy frame over the winter and now that the weather is getting warmer, I would like to fit the cover. I had a question about fitting though.

The pictures in the manual seem to show the initial fitting prior to splitting in two parts is done with the top horizontal brace (ties into roll bar) removed. It would seem like that would have to be removed to allow the canopy to be moved about and slip in and out.

Is this correct? If so, I assume that I would install the brace after the canopy is split, but not yet installed. Or does it get installed after the rear canopy section is installed.

I appreciate your guidance here.

Larry
 
As to the 7 tipper. You would not remove the roll bar. Remove a little from the front and rear. Test fit. Remove a little more, test fit.
The more you remove the lower the canopy will fit over the roll bar. The trim specs I have are for the 7 and likely not too helpful to you building a 6.
But the process will be similar.

good luck.
Are you screwing the canopy or bonding?
 
I wasn't asking about the roll bar. I was asking about the U channel support that runs horizontally between the roll bar and the rear baggage area bulkhead. It seemed that when the canopy is over size that it would not fit between that support bar and the skin.
 
Ya, I left that in place as well. I placed the whole plex over that (and over the rear skin) to get the rough positioning then made the big cut.
Best,
 
Fuzzy memory warning....but, I am fairly sure I had everything in place when fitting the bubble. The u channel would have been held in with clecos (on the sides of the channel), so it could go in after the bubble, and come out before removing the bubble.

Secret to fitting the canopy:
  1. fit
  2. trim
  3. repeat as necessary

Once you do this several hundreds (thousands?) of times, you're done. :)
 
Ya, I left that in place as well. I placed the whole plex over that (and over the rear skin) to get the rough positioning then made the big cut.
Best,

So, do you get the trim pretty close then make cut to split in two and then do further trimming on the main canopy to fit. It seem that after you split, the canopy would drop a bit as it was sitting on the skin instead of under the skin.

Thanks for the help here guys. I appreciate it.

Larry
 
You can get remarkably close trimming forward and aft. Trim so that the plexi is virtually sitting on the roll bar. Then do the big cut. I will say though, after you trim and after the big cut, sand the edges! They don't have to be sanded to a polish. Most of the scratches should be removed. Save yourself some grief and avoid a cracked canopy. After the big cut, the two haves ARE quite flexible.
Regards
 
So, do you get the trim pretty close then make cut to split in two and then do further trimming on the main canopy to fit. It seem that after you split, the canopy would drop a bit as it was sitting on the skin instead of under the skin.

Thanks for the help here guys. I appreciate it.

Larry

Yes, with roll bar in place, fore aft brace in place and with turtle deck skin clecoed on to ensure the proper positioning of all these parts. Yes, the rear of the canopy must drop lower when it is installed, but most of the trimming will be done on the front. Also - be careful to keep the sides tight at each fitting. The canopy can be trimmed whole to where the roll bar clearance is nearly touching. 1" is a little tall. When the cut is made the rear can drop 1/4" straight down, but the front will tilt to rear and this means the gap between the two will widen at the bottom. If the front is trimmed perfect (it won't be) then you sand until the gap is even.

But - - - you will find that the flexibility of the front half means that you will have to work both the canopy and the frame to ensure that the fit matches. I would suggest that some clamps be made that fit under the 1/8" gap under the side rails that will clamp the side of the canopy to the rails down the full length before drilling any holes. (Sorry I don't remember where I saw them and can not find a picture, but they were made from channel. ) This will keep the fit of rails to fuse, and front of canopy gap to frame skin minimized. It is a must do in my opinion. I didn't and paid a price in rework and fitting.

Be prepared to take this on and off hundreds of times, and your challenge will be patience to hold your quality standard as the fit continually changes and needs different adjustments in different areas.

I made my frame cut plexi, drilled holes, and I am waiting to install the forward skin before I glass the forward half of the plexi to the frame, and the final step is final sand to get and even gap between the two canopy halves over the roll bar.

I wish you patience and luck!
 
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