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Door Hinge Pins /Stainless?
- Thread starter raabs
- Start date
Don?t know about compatibility issues with Stainless Bolts in the hinges, but definitely a thicker bolt/pin is a good idea. The standard bolt supplied as you say gives a lot of play and by the time that movement is translated down to the bottom of the door to the pin area it gives potentially a lot of slop/sideways movement. As well as putting in thicker hinge pins/bolts I fitted the after market Aluminium Door guides which positively centre the doors as they close. As far as potential rust at the hinges, a small hole in the center of the hinge and on the top when the doors are fully opened for the introduction of corrosionX or similar I reckon is not a bad idea.
Bill.Peyton
Well Known Member
IMHO every RV-10 should include the "Plane Around" third latch system. The kit include new pins and blocks in addition to the center cam.
https://planearound.com/shop?olsPage=products/new-door-180-kit
https://planearound.com/shop?olsPage=products/new-door-180-kit
Auburntsts
Well Known Member
Guys I think he's talking about the 4 door hinge pins (the bolts) not the latching pins.
Auburntsts
Well Known Member
To answer your question I think its a non-issue. If you're still concerned coat the bolts with grease or your favorite corrosion inhibiter and press on. As for the slop, have you completed mounting the doors 100% -- seals, struts, and latching pins? If not, I'd stick to the stock bolts until you've got them totally mounted. Your slop issue might eliminate itself.
midwest rv-10
Active Member
door wiggle
I had machined pins made out of quality steel to take the slop out of the hinges. The slop you mention in the hinge will translated down the door and make an even sloppier fitting door (wiggle) just what you don't need. I have over 1,000 hrs on my plane and have no issues in that time as one data point.
Don Orrick
N410JA
40010
I had machined pins made out of quality steel to take the slop out of the hinges. The slop you mention in the hinge will translated down the door and make an even sloppier fitting door (wiggle) just what you don't need. I have over 1,000 hrs on my plane and have no issues in that time as one data point.
Don Orrick
N410JA
40010
KatanaPilot
Well Known Member
We eliminated most of hinge slop by simply installing two AN960-10L washers between the hinge halves. 0.032 thick and eliminated almost all play in the hinges. Cost $0.16.
Washers helped remove some of the horizontal slop. I fabricated temp oversized pins today and removed the rest of the vertical slop that was due to the AN3 bolt diameter being a bit small.
With all the initial slop, the door was moving around to much to do a quality door fitting. With slop removed, the door was easier to trim and opens and closes in the same spot every time. I will have permanent hinge pins machined next week.
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Kyle Boatright
Well Known Member
Between the struts and (when closed), the seals, there's enough preload so the stock hinges and pins don't rattle around.
I placed/drilled my hinges so that the inner and outer hinges eyes create a light tension on each other in the horizontal axis (each canopy mounted hinge half is pushing firmly outboard against the other hinge half). This seems to give me a very reliable closing alignment. I can't see how reduced clearance in the vertical axis would make it any better. The key to door alignment is to stop horizontal pivoting of one hinge half relative to the other. tightly spaced eyelets (i.e. no space for hinge half to pivot) or tight clearance pins should achieve the same objective.
Larry
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Plummit
Well Known Member
ColoCardinal
Well Known Member
hinge pins
Not all that familiar with the 10 but would it not be possible to tighten the knukle?
Whicher path you take, it's probably a good idea to use some sort of lube.
For those of you who want to use Stainless on the latch side:
A simple reference here: https://www.fastenal.com/en/75/magnetism-in-stainless-steel-fasteners
Not all that familiar with the 10 but would it not be possible to tighten the knukle?
Whicher path you take, it's probably a good idea to use some sort of lube.
For those of you who want to use Stainless on the latch side:
Most Stainless IS magnetic. 300 series is generally not, unless cold worked, wherasl 400 is magnetic. There are many other types of stainless; 17-4ph, etc.
A simple reference here: https://www.fastenal.com/en/75/magnetism-in-stainless-steel-fasteners
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If there is vert slop, the the door can twist a bit if the front is down and the back is up or vice versa. I have over sized pins in now and it's a big nice difference to remove the vertical slop as well as horizontal slop.
Thanks for that. Maybe I will make up a few pins. Do you recall what the diameter was that your machinist cut them to?
EDIT: I just played with my doors and they couldn't be tighter - 0 slop. Not sure if it is because the halves are tight against each other or I got lucky with tiighter tolerance holes. I remember That I had to kiss one of the bolts/pins with sandpaper for it to go in and I don't remember any meaningful slop when installing them (would have made custom pins if they were noticably loose), so likely I have tighter holes.
Larry
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