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Riveting Nutplates to Wheel Fairings

Auburntsts

Well Known Member
I'm ready to rivet the nutplates for the lower intersection fairings to the inside of the wheel pants. Can I shoot a solid rivet (as called out in the plans) without damaging the wheel pant in the process? I'm concerned that trying to shoot them is a recipe for cracked fiberglass.
 
I'm ready to rivet the nutplates for the lower intersection fairings to the inside of the wheel pants. Can I shoot a solid rivet (as called out in the plans) without damaging the wheel pant in the process? I'm concerned that trying to shoot them is a recipe for cracked fiberglass.

Yes.

My pneumatic squeezer has a feathered trigger in that I can control the amount of pressure applied. Just don't over squeeze or hit it hard. I also countersunk them by hand. I was afraid if I used any power tools, I would make the holes too deep.
 
I have a tendancy to use MS20426-A 3 rivets instead of AD 3 for this when in fiberglass. They are a "soft" rivet that doesn't exert as much force on the fiberglass. They also won't loosen up with vibration like the pull throughs. They only hold the nutplate in place when you remove the screw. Strength is not an issue.
 
Bob,
Unfortunately, I can't squeeze 4 of the 5 nutplates as they are too far from an edge to reach with the squeezer. So either I have to shoot them or use a blind rivet (and of course I don't have any more countersunk 3/32 blind rivets).
 
My advice is no to shooting rivets in glass, if you have room to squeeze them that is the best method, if not use the pop rivet made for nut plates.
 
My advice is no to shooting rivets in glass, if you have room to squeeze them that is the best method, if not use the pop rivet made for nut plates.

I've come to that exact conclusion and have ordered some 3/32 blind rivets to complete the task.
 
I vote for the click-bond nut plates. I some of these on one of my wingtips and now I think I want to go back and replace the standard nut plates. Very clean and simple.
 
Gee didn't like the "A" rivet idea eh? Works really well even if you shoot with a rivet gun.

I vote for the click-bond nut plates. I some of these on one of my wingtips and now I think I want to go back and replace the standard nut plates. Very clean and simple.

These are both good ideas. But since I have neither items in my shop nor 3/32 blind rivets, I just decided to go ahead and order a small supply of 3/32 blind rivets as those will be more useful in bench stock than the click bonds or "A" rivets.
 
Gee didn't like the "A" rivet idea eh? Works really well even if you shoot with a rivet gun.

If you have any "A" rivets in your workshop make sure that they are well marked - preferably with some very noticeable means.

With the only visual difference being a tiny dimple in the head you don't want to accidently use them by mistake. :eek:
 
Fit first

You are talking about attaching a flat piece of metal to a rounded piece of fiberglass. Before doing any riveting, drill, align, and attach with waxed clecos. Make sure the bracket has a non-stick barrier. Form a flat surface for the bracket by injecting a flox/epoxy slurry into the area between the bracket and the wheel pant.

Good luck
 
You are talking about attaching a flat piece of metal to a rounded piece of fiberglass. Before doing any riveting, drill, align, and attach with waxed clecos. Make sure the bracket has a non-stick barrier. Form a flat surface for the bracket by injecting a flox/epoxy slurry into the area between the bracket and the wheel pant.

Good luck

No I'm not. I'm past the steps you are describing--the wheel pants are done. All I'm doing is attaching the lower intersection fairings that are held on to the wheel pants by 5 screws -- hence the nutplates that get riveted to the thin wheel pant skin. What you are talking about is fitting the wheel pants to the fairing bracket and the plans spell out that process.
 
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If I can reach them I usually backrivet something like these with a hand set and hammer so I don't have to beat the glass with a gun. Pre-bend the ears to fit and a dab of 5 min epoxy & flox underneath just before riveting. The flox builds a pocket around the nutplate so you get full contact. Morwe better.
 
If the fairing is rigid, clayte not be afraid, do not fight, but better than rastrapati by riveting rivets of the fairing, because they are made of brittle material based on brittle polyester resin, the thickness of the thin.
My fairings are made of fiberglass epoxy resin and they turned out tough, light and durable and I rivet there is no fear (of any rivets).
 
Riveting the nutplates

I used a slightly different approach. I made some thin strips of .024 aluminum, bonded them to the inside of the wheel pant and then set the rivets in the aluminum. Gives a little more beef for the rivets and the nutplates. You have to be careful not to crack the fiberglass when riveting. I second the squeeze if you can approach.
 
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