1/8" fill needed

To make a better fit here, I need to add as much as 1/8" to the HS tip fairing. Can I just fill what I need with dry micro in one application, or should it be done in layers?

I can't tell by the picture, but are you trying to close the gap or make the glass part thicker? Either one - maybe a layer of glass with micro to put the glass cloth on will work.

I want to horizontal surface to match

A layer or two of glass cloth with epoxy and micro will build it out to where you want it. The caution is to keep the weight as close to the same on the left and right side. It shouldn't be that big of a project and it will make all the difference in the look.

Cloth is heavier than Micro.

All micro will work and be lighter if you use a dry mix (as much micro in the epoxy as you can get still spread it). West resin works very well for this. Make sure that you prep the tip surface with some coarse (36 grit works) sandpaper. This will give the tip surface some "tooth" for the micro to adhere to. Use clear packing tape on the H.S. so the micro wont stick there and sand down to contour. If you're in a hurry, you can spread it on above the H.S. profile and maybe get it all in one try.

Micro is lighter than cloth, but for the small amount of cloth that would be needed, the weight is minimal - an ounce or two. The cloth will be much stronger, chip less from rocks sand when flying. Micro over the cloth is what I did and it worked out well. If micro alone works in your situation, you saved yourself a couple ounces and you win!

i just went through this with my Emp and I found that the tip was actually elongated which meant the end stuck out a little proud of the elevator. I added a little heat and reshaped the HS tip and then braced it internally with a little foam and it fit nicely. No fill needed. You may be in the same situation. Just a thought.

Just dry micro will be fine.

These parts are originally made in two pieces, which are then bonded together. If it was my part I would cut it in half, on the original cut line, and then bond it properly. This time you have the advantage of being able to bond it together in place, to match the profile of the aft faring.

1. cut part in half, and rough up the cut lines inside and out with coarse sand paper, tapering the glass to a fine edge.
2. cleco parts on structure and use wadded up paper, foam, etc inside to spread the two pieces until the profile matches the other glass part.
3. using a couple of strips of glass, bond the parts on the outside. This is a temporary patch and will be sanded off later
4. When cured, remove part from airplane and do a nice layup on inside of part, and clecoe back in position until cured.
5. When cured, remove outside patch, feather the edges and bond final layer on outside of part.

This will give you the lightest possible part, with little or no filler, and will perfectly match the aft glass faring.
It takes two to three days as you have to wait for the layups to cure but the actual time spent is minimal.

DanH said:

Just dry micro will be fine.

Click to expand...

Tough to argue with this guy on composite parts!

Used some heat

Heated it up and got it pretty close. Scuff it, dry micro, sand it, on to the wing kit which arrived last Thursday.

Thanks guys!

What are you using to seal off the aft end of the HS tips? You should be able to spread the opening to match the elevator tips.

I cut out some aluminum pieces and bonded them in place with epoxy/flox mix.


Then I filled in the aft end with micro to have a nice concave shape.

Bruce, those look great. Nice job. The big question is, do you still get the 9 whistle? Ha!