Van's Air Force
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Honda 1.8L on RV6A Now Flying!
- Thread starter charosenz
- Start date
charosenz
Well Known Member
Thanks for the reply. I have read they are Gesipia rivets too but just not sure.
I prefer to get them from Vans..... The numbers you shared are fairly consistent with most pulled rivets. Glad you are enjoying the build. I believe there are a fair number of lurkers out there, more coming out out of the shadows all the time. I work hard to keep this thread a fun and enjoyable experience where everyone is welcome to ask questions and make suggestions as long as they are kind and respectful.
I prefer to get them from Vans..... The numbers you shared are fairly consistent with most pulled rivets. Glad you are enjoying the build. I believe there are a fair number of lurkers out there, more coming out out of the shadows all the time. I work hard to keep this thread a fun and enjoyable experience where everyone is welcome to ask questions and make suggestions as long as they are kind and respectful.
charosenz
Well Known Member
Thanks. Not nearly as beautifully as your hand crafted scoop with everything perfectly faired in so nicely, but hey, I feel mine will work well. We shall see. I am anxious to make some progress but my day job is about 60 plus work hours back to back and no way to get out from under it.
Oh well it will happen...
Thanks to everyone who is watching and posting Great number of views and posts on this thread.
Lots more coming soon as I retire in 2 weeks and then i'll be building full time. !!!! Yeee haaaa.
charosenz
Well Known Member
Just a quite new pic on more of the angle aluminum supports that will eventually hold the side panels of the scoop.
For those who have built a sheet metal airframe like an RV you will know that you will have to cut notices to notches on one side of the angle to get it to confirm to a single plane surface. Which is all that I had to do to notch the angle pieces for the front sides of the scoop that are forward of the radiator. But when it came to the angles for the aft section of supporting angles I had to notch both the side against the bell (to conform nicely to the curve for inlet an outlet boundary airflow But unlike the front, I also had to cut a few notices on the lower legs of the angles so they would conform nicely with the upward shape of the bottom of the belly. It is a bit hard to see but honestly, it was easy to do. I chose notches at roughly 2" spacing.
Hope this makes sense, and if not feel free to ask questions.
I hop to be out there drilling and bending much more soon.
Charlie
For those who have built a sheet metal airframe like an RV you will know that you will have to cut notices to notches on one side of the angle to get it to confirm to a single plane surface. Which is all that I had to do to notch the angle pieces for the front sides of the scoop that are forward of the radiator. But when it came to the angles for the aft section of supporting angles I had to notch both the side against the bell (to conform nicely to the curve for inlet an outlet boundary airflow But unlike the front, I also had to cut a few notices on the lower legs of the angles so they would conform nicely with the upward shape of the bottom of the belly. It is a bit hard to see but honestly, it was easy to do. I chose notches at roughly 2" spacing.
Hope this makes sense, and if not feel free to ask questions.
I hop to be out there drilling and bending much more soon.
Charlie
rv7charlie
Well Known Member
charosenz
Well Known Member
Good tip! I have the hand held flute version which works well for me for metal thinner than .063. If I had to do much bending to do I could justify the ones in the link real easy...... But I have to say I don't know much about how these HF versions really work. I suspect if you did not have a whole lot to do they would be fine. At least that is my experience using HF tools.
Thanks
Charlie
charosenz
Well Known Member
Update on Belly Scoop
Just an update. I made a little progress on the belly scoop. There are two pics below. One of the scoop from the side and one from the front. The odd blue color is just protective plastic sheeting on the aluminum. As you can see it is still in the cleco stage, but at least it is progress. Astute viewers will notice the front opening is offset one inch to the left. This is to avoid the exhaust that will eventually exit the right side of the cowl.
Just an update. I made a little progress on the belly scoop. There are two pics below. One of the scoop from the side and one from the front. The odd blue color is just protective plastic sheeting on the aluminum. As you can see it is still in the cleco stage, but at least it is progress. Astute viewers will notice the front opening is offset one inch to the left. This is to avoid the exhaust that will eventually exit the right side of the cowl.
charosenz
Well Known Member
O2 Sensors and leaded fuel
While I have used high octane unleaded fuel in my project, I know there will come a day when I am flying that I will occasionally have to use 100LL.
One downside is that leaded fuel will eventually foul an O2 sensor.
So I would be curious to hear from anyone who has used 100LL with an O2 sensor the following questions:
1) How long before the O2 sensor starts having problems.
2) How will you know when it starts to go "bad"?
3) Is your experience based on the older narrow band sensor or the newer wide band sensor?
Charlie
While I have used high octane unleaded fuel in my project, I know there will come a day when I am flying that I will occasionally have to use 100LL.
One downside is that leaded fuel will eventually foul an O2 sensor.
So I would be curious to hear from anyone who has used 100LL with an O2 sensor the following questions:
1) How long before the O2 sensor starts having problems.
2) How will you know when it starts to go "bad"?
3) Is your experience based on the older narrow band sensor or the newer wide band sensor?
Charlie
jcaplins
Well Known Member
I've gotten anywhere from 10 to 50 hours on the Bosch 4.7 wideband o2 sensors when using leaded fuel. (Also using decalin additive)
I've switched to the better Bosch 4.9 sensors but have not used them with leaded fuel yet.
I use multiple o2 sensors and if I see the sensors not matching or if my mixture knob settings is not normal, then I know something is up with the sensors. I've also had a sensor always read 21:1, so that one failed.
I've also found that having the o2 sensor close the the cylinder head exhaust port yielded erratic and inaccurate readings. I believe the we're running hotter than they should. I've moved my sensors about 20" downstream now and seem to be working pretty good.
charosenz
Well Known Member
Jeff, That is super helpful; just what I needed to know. I did make the switch to the 4.9 bosch unit too, along with a PLX multi-gauge, which I like very much. I have this tied in to the SDS display too.
I do have mine quite close to the turbo exit and I suspect you are spot on about the temps. I will see if I can gain some distance with the final exhaust design when I get to that stage.
Thanks again.
Charlie
charosenz
Well Known Member
coolant tubes roughed in
Now that I got my shipment of tubes and elbows, I roughed in the coolant tubes in a path that I think will work well for my set up. The aluminum tube is 1.25" OD 6061T6 that is 0.062" wall. The elbows are 4 ply silicone. If you look close you will see a dark anodized "joiner" at the top of both the cool side and the hot side tubes. Each of these has a 0.125" NPT temp sensor for monitoring.
Notice the tubes go down at the firewall and then enter the radiator scoop where they will eventually connect to the radiator. The second picture is a close up of the route near the firewall.
While it is not particularly necessary, I put a bead of JB Weld on the ends of the tubes to help keep the silicone fittings from slipping off. Works great.
Now that I got my shipment of tubes and elbows, I roughed in the coolant tubes in a path that I think will work well for my set up. The aluminum tube is 1.25" OD 6061T6 that is 0.062" wall. The elbows are 4 ply silicone. If you look close you will see a dark anodized "joiner" at the top of both the cool side and the hot side tubes. Each of these has a 0.125" NPT temp sensor for monitoring.
Notice the tubes go down at the firewall and then enter the radiator scoop where they will eventually connect to the radiator. The second picture is a close up of the route near the firewall.
While it is not particularly necessary, I put a bead of JB Weld on the ends of the tubes to help keep the silicone fittings from slipping off. Works great.
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rv7charlie
Well Known Member
You can make a pretty effective beading tool for larger tubing like that with a couple of AN-3 bolts (actually, 3/16"; I'm too cheap to waste AN bolts), a grinder, and your hand rivet squeezer.
charosenz
Well Known Member
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charosenz
Well Known Member
Dan, Thanks for sharing the link. I did not have good luck with that tool for this tube. I suspect it may work better on thinner walled tube. But it is good to have in your toolbox.
Charlie
charosenz
Well Known Member
John,
Yes I should have noted that when the final lay out of the pipes is completed all elbow will be band-clamped on the aluminum tubes and there will be cushion clamps used to secure the pipe firmly in place, against other stronger structures.
Silicone has been around several years but was not used too widely until the costs started coming down making it competitive with the more common EPDM hose. I like it when it comes to basic 45 and 90 joints. It is more flexible and very good choice for coolant. But they cannot be used for oil or fuel.
charosenz
Well Known Member
Jim,
Thank you for the kind words.
It is funny that you asked about this. I have made that my next milestone (to run the engine on the airframe), and it is hard at times not to work on other things that are not necessary to accomplish that goal. But..... I hope to create some heat with the engine on the airframe in about a month. Of course I do not have the wings on the fuse in my shop at home, so there will be a bit of a challenge getting fuel to the engine, but I have a portable fuel tank that I used before so I suspect I will just use that.
Major steps to accomplish this are:
1) Finish the coolant tubes to the radiator.
2) Hook up all the wiring/sensors and route it to the gauges in the instrument panel.
3) Fab a temp fuel delivery system
4) Fab a throttle cable to the newly reconfigured throttlebody.
It does not sound like much but the wiring is the most time consuming for me. Spending time on my back in the fuse with my head on the rudder pedals is just a pain. Not that I am complaining...well sort of....
The good news is that this engine has a single exhaust port which is really nice and makes it very simple for building an exhaust. Ill run it first without the turbo, and add that later. Plus I made my exhaust flange to take a universal ring flange so that too makes it easy to take on and off and rotate as needed to clear things.
Charlie
jcaplins
Well Known Member
charosenz
Well Known Member
Jim,
The engine is extremely smooth and there is virtually no vibration. But.....with the prop on it at high RPM there is a lot of torque roll that I do have to manage. When I had it on the test stand that was bilt with 2x6" that were 48" apart, I did have to add 6' outrigger when I did hard pulls at 5000 RPM with the prop on it, as it actually started to rock the engine stand (slightly). And as you can bet I also had to tie it to a large UTV to keep it help back. But Vibration, really none.
Charlie
charosenz
Well Known Member
labeling wiring
I had to send the radiator back to the shop to have a pin hole filled.
It gave me a chance to start getting serious about installing the engine wiring.
One point that I had struggled with in the past (may be some out there have too) is how to label thin wires, esp if the terminal is already on the wire?
One option that works well for me is to take a short length of flexible 1/8th PE tubing (the kind at the aviation isle at Home Depot) to give the label something large to wrap around and then cover both with clear shrink tube.
On important benefit is that you can cut the PE tubing lengthwise if the terminal is already on the wire, then slip the label in between the 1/8th PE and the shrink wrap. make sure to cut the clear shrink wrap just a bit longer than the PE tubing so it will shrink down around the PE and the label to hold it all in place.
Here is a pick of the finished product, and that short section of PE next to it.
You can buy cheap label makers on amazong for less than $30.
I had to send the radiator back to the shop to have a pin hole filled.
It gave me a chance to start getting serious about installing the engine wiring.
One point that I had struggled with in the past (may be some out there have too) is how to label thin wires, esp if the terminal is already on the wire?
One option that works well for me is to take a short length of flexible 1/8th PE tubing (the kind at the aviation isle at Home Depot) to give the label something large to wrap around and then cover both with clear shrink tube.
On important benefit is that you can cut the PE tubing lengthwise if the terminal is already on the wire, then slip the label in between the 1/8th PE and the shrink wrap. make sure to cut the clear shrink wrap just a bit longer than the PE tubing so it will shrink down around the PE and the label to hold it all in place.
Here is a pick of the finished product, and that short section of PE next to it.
You can buy cheap label makers on amazong for less than $30.
charosenz
Well Known Member
fold down tray for ECU etc under panel.
I suspect I am not alone with struggling to find room for all the electrical components that need to be installed. Even more difficult is finding a way to make it secure, but accessible. One way that I have seen others do is to build a tray under the sub panel that can be removed, hinged, or even slide out on rollers.
Here is what I came up with. It is a panel that has a hinge at the back, so the majority of it can be unbolted so the tray can swing down in front of the rudder pedals for "easier" access. I do like it but i also struggle with esome interference with the throttle cable. Nothing that I cannot work around.
The next picture is of the tray swung up and bolted in to place.
Notice the 0.032 stiffners I added to the bottom just to give it some strength and rigidity.
Disregard the loose random break lines. Those qualify as a yet to be done project....and.....wait until you see the birds nest of wires that I get to clean up!
Charlie
I suspect I am not alone with struggling to find room for all the electrical components that need to be installed. Even more difficult is finding a way to make it secure, but accessible. One way that I have seen others do is to build a tray under the sub panel that can be removed, hinged, or even slide out on rollers.
Here is what I came up with. It is a panel that has a hinge at the back, so the majority of it can be unbolted so the tray can swing down in front of the rudder pedals for "easier" access. I do like it but i also struggle with esome interference with the throttle cable. Nothing that I cannot work around.
The next picture is of the tray swung up and bolted in to place.
Notice the 0.032 stiffners I added to the bottom just to give it some strength and rigidity.
Disregard the loose random break lines. Those qualify as a yet to be done project....and.....wait until you see the birds nest of wires that I get to clean up!
Charlie
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charosenz
Well Known Member
Modifications to the engine to go in the plance
One of the questions I get asked the most is what modifications that I had to do to be able to make the engine work in the airplane. Most of the questions end up being related to how the mount attaches to the engine. So I created a video to cover a few of the highlights and I posted it on Youtube. The link is below.
One thing that I want to add is that did not modify the engine itself. I think Honda got that part right. Probably the only exception is the VTC spool valve. This device is what varies the timing of the intake valve. In the car, Honda has the PCM turn the oil control valve on an off which allows it to use the emissions friendly profile cam and then when it senses a demand for power, it flows oil over in the intake rocker arms so they utilize the Hight Output profiled came lobes. I have it set to run in the "high out put" mode all the time. This was simply a matter of energizing the oil control valve so the oil pressure engages intake rocker arms so the use the high output profile cam.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTseMbFHNlI
Charlie
One of the questions I get asked the most is what modifications that I had to do to be able to make the engine work in the airplane. Most of the questions end up being related to how the mount attaches to the engine. So I created a video to cover a few of the highlights and I posted it on Youtube. The link is below.
One thing that I want to add is that did not modify the engine itself. I think Honda got that part right. Probably the only exception is the VTC spool valve. This device is what varies the timing of the intake valve. In the car, Honda has the PCM turn the oil control valve on an off which allows it to use the emissions friendly profile cam and then when it senses a demand for power, it flows oil over in the intake rocker arms so they utilize the Hight Output profiled came lobes. I have it set to run in the "high out put" mode all the time. This was simply a matter of energizing the oil control valve so the oil pressure engages intake rocker arms so the use the high output profile cam.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTseMbFHNlI
Charlie
charosenz
Well Known Member
Why not use the OEM PCM/ECU?
Why don't you just use the Honda PCM/ECU?
I do get this questions a lot. The OEM PCM has a lot going on inside, and it requires a lot more sensor input than what I need or want. For example, it is used to seeing Transmission activity, Vehicle Speed, and lots of emissions data like EGT, EVAP, Catalytic Converters info and much more.
So why not use an aftermarket ECU programmer. Well aside from the fact that I am super happy with SDSEFI, there are other aftermarket PCM and PCM programming tools. I have talk with the folks at Hondata, Ktuner, Motec, Link and more. Some of these are viable options, especially if you use a port injected engine, and not a late model GDI (gas direct injection).
If you are considering an aftermarket PCM/Programmer and you are not familiar with them, get some advice from an experience programmer and make sure they know your "unique off road" machine will not have a lot of the typical sensor data. Some sensors can be "turned off" Others cannot. MOTEC is the leading automotive standalone PCM but they are expensive. They start at $4k and go up much higher.
One of the more out-of-the-box thinkers said that most of these engines have cousins who do duty as marine engines. Yes. Very true, in fact the Honda K24, one of the most venerable honda engines has been doing just that for over 15 years. There is some very sound logic in considering this route. While some of the engines do have some changes in the design from their land based siblings, now days it is rare, and the changes are usually more beneficial to an aviation adaptation to boot. A marine PCM would not be looking for Transmission and speed data. But they do look for other controls and I am not familiar with their design layout. But the Honda Marine BF150A has excellent specs and the PCM wiring schematic is readily available on line - its even included in the owners manual. So the theory for those of you who are not afraid to innovative, you could use a BF150A Marine PCM on a land based K24Z series as it would not be required to look for transmission data etc. But you would still need an after market re programmer like Hondata, or Motec and it might be possible. For me, I am going to stick with SDSEFI because it is proven and the support is great. The only downside is that, currently, SDS does not support GDI and all but one Honda (the R18) is not GDI. So it you are looking to get one of the more late model Honda for your rocket ship. Do your homework!
My project is looking good. I have had my head (feet, arms, back) deep in to the electrical work. Nothing fun to report, other than it is going well.
On a side note. This thread passed the 50,000 views milestone last week! I have to admit that is a big number. Surprising too. There are not a lot of folks who comment, and I suspect there are quite a few lurkers who for various reason don't want to comment. If, by chance, it is because of ridicule from other members of VAF that would be a shame. I hope that is not the case. Regardless, as long as people seem interested, I will post. I realize this is not the type of venture than most builders would want to tackle, but certainly by the viewers, it is certainly something people are interested in reading about. For me it is what I enjoy the most. Experimental aviation does include the forward part of the firewall too!
Let me know if you have question, comments, or respectful disagreements, all welcome.
Good flying to you all.
Charlie
Why don't you just use the Honda PCM/ECU?
I do get this questions a lot. The OEM PCM has a lot going on inside, and it requires a lot more sensor input than what I need or want. For example, it is used to seeing Transmission activity, Vehicle Speed, and lots of emissions data like EGT, EVAP, Catalytic Converters info and much more.
So why not use an aftermarket ECU programmer. Well aside from the fact that I am super happy with SDSEFI, there are other aftermarket PCM and PCM programming tools. I have talk with the folks at Hondata, Ktuner, Motec, Link and more. Some of these are viable options, especially if you use a port injected engine, and not a late model GDI (gas direct injection).
If you are considering an aftermarket PCM/Programmer and you are not familiar with them, get some advice from an experience programmer and make sure they know your "unique off road" machine will not have a lot of the typical sensor data. Some sensors can be "turned off" Others cannot. MOTEC is the leading automotive standalone PCM but they are expensive. They start at $4k and go up much higher.
One of the more out-of-the-box thinkers said that most of these engines have cousins who do duty as marine engines. Yes. Very true, in fact the Honda K24, one of the most venerable honda engines has been doing just that for over 15 years. There is some very sound logic in considering this route. While some of the engines do have some changes in the design from their land based siblings, now days it is rare, and the changes are usually more beneficial to an aviation adaptation to boot. A marine PCM would not be looking for Transmission and speed data. But they do look for other controls and I am not familiar with their design layout. But the Honda Marine BF150A has excellent specs and the PCM wiring schematic is readily available on line - its even included in the owners manual. So the theory for those of you who are not afraid to innovative, you could use a BF150A Marine PCM on a land based K24Z series as it would not be required to look for transmission data etc. But you would still need an after market re programmer like Hondata, or Motec and it might be possible. For me, I am going to stick with SDSEFI because it is proven and the support is great. The only downside is that, currently, SDS does not support GDI and all but one Honda (the R18) is not GDI. So it you are looking to get one of the more late model Honda for your rocket ship. Do your homework!
My project is looking good. I have had my head (feet, arms, back) deep in to the electrical work. Nothing fun to report, other than it is going well.
On a side note. This thread passed the 50,000 views milestone last week! I have to admit that is a big number. Surprising too. There are not a lot of folks who comment, and I suspect there are quite a few lurkers who for various reason don't want to comment. If, by chance, it is because of ridicule from other members of VAF that would be a shame. I hope that is not the case. Regardless, as long as people seem interested, I will post. I realize this is not the type of venture than most builders would want to tackle, but certainly by the viewers, it is certainly something people are interested in reading about. For me it is what I enjoy the most. Experimental aviation does include the forward part of the firewall too!
Let me know if you have question, comments, or respectful disagreements, all welcome.
Good flying to you all.
Charlie
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charosenz
Well Known Member
working on panel
Just up date on the progress.
I have the wiring from the FWF back through the sub panel and I have a good start on the panel...
Here is a pic below. When it comes to the engine instruments you will see "traditional" gauges. I guess I am a bit old fashioned that way. The "Blank" area in the middle of the panel will be an IPAD probably running forflight.
Also, one thing I found that I really like, is a USA made, water proof, re-settable master breaker, and only $26 bucks!
Here is a link to that breaker. https://spemco.com/175-s0-090-2-mechanical-products-90-amp-manual-circuit-breaker-surface-mount/
I have this mounted on the subpanel.
Charlie
Just up date on the progress.
I have the wiring from the FWF back through the sub panel and I have a good start on the panel...
Here is a pic below. When it comes to the engine instruments you will see "traditional" gauges. I guess I am a bit old fashioned that way. The "Blank" area in the middle of the panel will be an IPAD probably running forflight.
Also, one thing I found that I really like, is a USA made, water proof, re-settable master breaker, and only $26 bucks!
Here is a link to that breaker. https://spemco.com/175-s0-090-2-mechanical-products-90-amp-manual-circuit-breaker-surface-mount/
I have this mounted on the subpanel.
Charlie
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charosenz
Well Known Member
Hobbs Cross Over Relay switch
As I progress with the wiring of the panel I learned the Oil Pressure switch is a "NC" Normally Closed switch. Which means that the contacts are closed thereby providing a circuit (power) - unless - there is oil pressure, the opposite of what I need. Since I want to use this to run my Hobbs I need to reverse it. I need it to be a "NO" Normally Open switch.
I could plumbed an after market NO switch but since there are two oil pressure ports on this engine it made sense to me to use one. Oddly, one is BPST thread and the other is an "O" ring 10mm thread.
So I decided to use a common 5 post relay to convert this from a "NC" circuit to operate as a "NO" switch. Thereby providing power to the Hobbs only when there is oil pressure.
Charlie
As I progress with the wiring of the panel I learned the Oil Pressure switch is a "NC" Normally Closed switch. Which means that the contacts are closed thereby providing a circuit (power) - unless - there is oil pressure, the opposite of what I need. Since I want to use this to run my Hobbs I need to reverse it. I need it to be a "NO" Normally Open switch.
I could plumbed an after market NO switch but since there are two oil pressure ports on this engine it made sense to me to use one. Oddly, one is BPST thread and the other is an "O" ring 10mm thread.
So I decided to use a common 5 post relay to convert this from a "NC" circuit to operate as a "NO" switch. Thereby providing power to the Hobbs only when there is oil pressure.
Charlie
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rv7charlie
Well Known Member
I assume you simplified the drawing; not showing the Hobbs system being wired after your master contactor. As drawn, the relay is a parasitic drain on the battery when the engine isn't running.
charosenz
Well Known Member
Mike,
You would think that would be easy. So far I have ordered two and neither were the correct units. One came with NPT threads, event thought it was advertised as 10mm (which is what I need). The other was 10mm but with 1.0TP and I need 1.25TP. I do have a 3rd one on order, so we'll see.....
In the mean time I decided to wire up the cross-over relay to get the job done.
Then I thought, what the heck, I'll share it thinking someone may find some value it in it, if not for this purpose, may be for another application.
....and in case some may wonder about just installing an oil manifold, I thought about that too, and may in fact do that too, but this relay was a bit easier for now.....
Charlie
You would think that would be easy. So far I have ordered two and neither were the correct units. One came with NPT threads, event thought it was advertised as 10mm (which is what I need). The other was 10mm but with 1.0TP and I need 1.25TP. I do have a 3rd one on order, so we'll see.....
In the mean time I decided to wire up the cross-over relay to get the job done.
Then I thought, what the heck, I'll share it thinking someone may find some value it in it, if not for this purpose, may be for another application.
....and in case some may wonder about just installing an oil manifold, I thought about that too, and may in fact do that too, but this relay was a bit easier for now.....
Charlie
charosenz
Well Known Member
While I previously said 87 was not used, I should have mentioned the option of using post 87 for a low oil pressure warning light. The 87A in this case works as the NO line, 87 will be the opposite, it will be NC, hence when oil pressure is lost, this leg will close and energize the warning light. You can buy 1/2" very bright to install in your panel in a variety of placed.
Here are the ones I like and use...
https://spemco.com/red-round-12-volt-led-indicator-light-spade-terminals-1092qd1-12v/
They come in a variety of colors
Here are the ones I like and use...
https://spemco.com/red-round-12-volt-led-indicator-light-spade-terminals-1092qd1-12v/
They come in a variety of colors
charosenz
Well Known Member
Version 2 with oil pressure warning light
I decided to update the drawing. I added the master contactor that RV7 Charlie mentioned. I also added the low oil pressure light leg off post/terminal 87 on the relay.
When using warning lights, it is also good to add a "push to test" button so you can push it to ensure the lights themselves are functional as a preflight duty.
I decided to update the drawing. I added the master contactor that RV7 Charlie mentioned. I also added the low oil pressure light leg off post/terminal 87 on the relay.
When using warning lights, it is also good to add a "push to test" button so you can push it to ensure the lights themselves are functional as a preflight duty.
charosenz
Well Known Member
Panel installed and ready for engine run
Just over a month ago, someone asked when I could have the engine running on the airframe. Largely the hold up was building the panel. At least to the extent that it included the necessary gauges to run the engine.
Well I installed the panel today. It took a bit longer than I had anticipated but I am happy with the results.
Here is a pic of it installed.
Some of you will be surprised to see analog gauges on a current panel. When it comes to monitoring the engine systems I like gauges. Just me.
But when it comes to navigation, well that will be glass. That is why you see a fairly large blank area on the left. I am leaning on installing an IPAD and running foreflight for navigation.
I know I mentioned the "CPC" circular wire connectors previously, and I thought I would include a pic of those. They are hard mounted in the sub panel. I ended up using 3 9 pin connectors. This makes installing the panel, or upgrading it very easy. These connectors are readily available from Mouser, or DigiKey, or Ebay. They take wire anywhere from 22ga up to 14 ga. I did end up having to use one full sized Universal Mate-n-lock connector because my starter switch wire was 12ga and the panel feed line was 10 ga.
You will notice a white colored paper above each CPC connector. This is a list of what each terminal (wire) is as well as a diagram of the pins.
I suspect it will be a more than a week before I actually start the engine. I do have a bit of coolant plumbing to finalize and secure some loose wires, etc.
Feel free to ask questions.
Charlie
Just over a month ago, someone asked when I could have the engine running on the airframe. Largely the hold up was building the panel. At least to the extent that it included the necessary gauges to run the engine.
Well I installed the panel today. It took a bit longer than I had anticipated but I am happy with the results.
Here is a pic of it installed.
Some of you will be surprised to see analog gauges on a current panel. When it comes to monitoring the engine systems I like gauges. Just me.
But when it comes to navigation, well that will be glass. That is why you see a fairly large blank area on the left. I am leaning on installing an IPAD and running foreflight for navigation.
I know I mentioned the "CPC" circular wire connectors previously, and I thought I would include a pic of those. They are hard mounted in the sub panel. I ended up using 3 9 pin connectors. This makes installing the panel, or upgrading it very easy. These connectors are readily available from Mouser, or DigiKey, or Ebay. They take wire anywhere from 22ga up to 14 ga. I did end up having to use one full sized Universal Mate-n-lock connector because my starter switch wire was 12ga and the panel feed line was 10 ga.
You will notice a white colored paper above each CPC connector. This is a list of what each terminal (wire) is as well as a diagram of the pins.
I suspect it will be a more than a week before I actually start the engine. I do have a bit of coolant plumbing to finalize and secure some loose wires, etc.
Feel free to ask questions.
Charlie
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You will notice a white colored paper above each CPC connector. This is a list of what each terminal (wire) is as well as a diagram of the pins.
That is a fine idea. Nicely done too.
charosenz
Well Known Member
Thanks Dan, I know you have a lot of experience and coming from you is appreciated.
Ross, funny you should mention that. Besides the fact I am not getting any younger, or skinnier, the thought of crawling on my back to look up at those wires behind the subpanel months or years later is not something I would look forward to.
But I actually do have several unassigned pairs of wires that transit the firewall that are stubbed off back there for use later. I probably should bring a few of them forward in to a pin on a connector before they get lost back there.
I am contemplating adding a "Air Temp" sensor in the cowling, more for my sense of curiosity but also as a "Canary" to catch something getting hot up there..... Maybe a Pressure Sender on the coolant system too. Just curious more than anything.....
Charlie
charosenz
Well Known Member
Mike S
Senior Curmudgeon
This is a good idea, with the belly radiator you will not easily see any indication of failure of coolant system integrity.
