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  #61  
Old 08-17-2017, 10:11 PM
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CubedRoot CubedRoot is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ooltewah, TN.
Posts: 434
Default February 27th, 2017. Hours Worked: 2

After having a lot of things going on today, I decided to get down to the shop and build a little on the airplane to help clear my mind. Our little 9 month old, Acacia, had to be put in a brace for her hip dysplasia for a few weeks, so that broke mine and Tammys hearts 🙁 Getting down in the shop and working on the plane and working with my hands is a good stress reliever for me so I figured Iíd go do some build-therapy for a few hours tonight.

Since I am waiting on a good full day to prime the rest of the elevator parts, the only thing I have left to work on right now is the trim tab. I had previously assembled it, so I started this session by deburring all the trim tab parts, and dressing the edges of all the parts. Then I dimpled the skin using my squeezer, because the tight spaces wouldnít allow it in my DRDT-2.



The E-607PP trim tab spar needs to be machine countersunk only on the top side so it can receive the dimpled skin, but we canít dimple it because we donít want a bulge on the bottom, where the hinge will attach. I fired up my micro-stop countersink and knocked this out pretty easily, and then followed it up by dimpling the bottom of the spar with my dimpler per the plans.



After all the parts were deburred, dimpled, dressed and countersunk, I went ahead and assembled everything to start riveting. I riveted on the bottom side of the skin to the spar using my squeezer, but this was not a fast process. I had to use a few blocks of scrap wood to hold the skin open in order to get my squeezer in there. It was still a tight fit in most of the spots, so I had to pay extra attention to what I was doing.



I left the E-717 and E718 trim tab horns for the very last so I didít risk bending or damaging them during this process. I also used a cleco to help hold the hole for the clevis pin in alignment on the trim tab horns just to be safe. With a little bit of patience and fiddling, the bottom of the skin was riveted onto the spar.



I am going to hold off on attaching the top part of the skin to the spar, because we have to do some measuring of the trim tab against the elevator in order to align both halves of the hinge just right, so for now, I just clecoed it on and then attached the forward half of the hinge to keep the hinge pin safe and free from getting bent on the shelf. Thatís about all I got done tonight. A total of right at 2 hours of work and I called it a night. Hereís the photos from tonights session: https://goo.gl/photos/rVtTaemn4fUUSQfX7

Hours Worked: 2
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Lynn Dixon
RV-7 Slider -
Tail kit Completed - March 2017
Wing Kit Started - June 2017
My Build Log: http://www.theskunkwerx.com

VAF Donation paid for 2017
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  #62  
Old 08-17-2017, 10:12 PM
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CubedRoot CubedRoot is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ooltewah, TN.
Posts: 434
Default February 28th, 2017. Hours Worked: 3.25

Well, tonight was priming night, and its the last priming session for the entire empennage! I am kind of glad to be honest, spraying AKZO is an ordeal with all the PPE and prep work that has to be done. However, it leaves an absolutely awesome primed surface, that is incredibly durable so I guess its worth the trouble. I only had a few remaining parts from the left elevator that needed priming, and I have decided I am not priming the trim tab. Its a super small piece, and the assembly work left the trim tab fairly closed, so I wouldnít get much coverage in it anyways. Even if the trim tab starts corroding (it wonít its alclad), the entire thing will cost about $50 in parts to replace, and maybe 8 hours of work. The trim tab finished out so well, that I didnít want to chance ruining it by trying to prime it.

Hereís my obligatory priming selfie!!!



Like all priming sessions, I started out by scuffing up the parts with maroon scotchbrite pads. These things work great at scuffing the alclad surface, but not removing it. I essentially am just removing any of the alclad surface corrosion and giving the primer a good surface to ďbiteĒ onto. Once I had all my parts scuffed up, I did a quick wipe with a microfiber cloth to remove the dust that scuffing leaves behind. I have found this small step makes it WAY easier to clean with acetone. Once I had the dust off the parts, I cleaned each one with acetone 3 times each and using a clean side of a paper towel every time. I like to clean the parts until the white paper towel pulls away clean from the part.

Then, I mixed up the AKZO and let it kick-off for the 30 minutes it needs, stirring it occasionally. I made 4 ounces of AKZO for this small batch and then poured it into the PPS cups for my HVLP sprayer. While the AKZO was kicking-off, I suited up into my tyvek suit, donned my full face mask and sealed off the spray booth and ventilated it outside. Like usual, AKZO sprays super easy, and covers wonderfully with an HVLP. Usually once quick pass is enough to cover the part completely, with only needing a few small touch upís in the shadowy areas.

Once I had all the parts sprayed on both sides, I cleaned out my sprayer and Iíll leave the parts to cure for a few days. AKZO dries really fast, and is workable in a few hours, but I like to let it completely cure before working with it. Its very scratch resistant if you do. Not many photos tonight, because, well its priming. Its pretty much the same as the other priming sessions 🙂 Hereís the ones I did take though: https://goo.gl/photos/Bm6Ck64TDSQRLVNj7

Hours Worked: 3.25
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Lynn Dixon
RV-7 Slider -
Tail kit Completed - March 2017
Wing Kit Started - June 2017
My Build Log: http://www.theskunkwerx.com

VAF Donation paid for 2017

Last edited by CubedRoot : 08-19-2017 at 01:39 PM.
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  #63  
Old 08-19-2017, 01:43 PM
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CubedRoot CubedRoot is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ooltewah, TN.
Posts: 434
Default March 2nd, 2017. Hours Worked: 3

The primer has dried and cured on my left elevator parts, so theres only one thing left to doÖ Start assembly and riveting! I started out the session by bending the tabs on the elevator skin. On this left skin, there are two tiny little tabs that must be folded over, just like the trim tab, in order to close the edge where the trim tab sits. These also support the outboard edge of the skin, much like a rib would. This is a very delicate operation, and one that can go wrong quickly. When I bent the trim tab, I had a second one for a spare so I didnít worry. With this skin, I only have the one, and I have a ton of work in it already! I used the same bending blocks as I did for my trim tab, since the angles are pretty much identical. I inserted the block and clamped it down to the bench. I used a straight edge held against the block of wood to make sure I had it right on my bend line.





We bend the bottom tab first, and then fold the top tab over the top this way we form a lip that allows water to run over the skin, and not get trapped between the tabs, or worse, get inside the skin! Notice my note to myself (1 st!) so I donít bend the wrong tab first. I used a large block of wood and a small hammer with light taps to bend the bottom tab into position. Once I had the bottom tab where I liked it, I did the same with the top tab, and the end results were decent. While they are not perfect, and have a few tiny dents from the bending, I am happy with them as they are. The dents wont be visible since they are on the inside of the edge and will have the trim tab butted up against them.



Next up, I dimpled all the parts and skin. I like to dimple after priming because it makes scuffing in preparation for priming so much easier. I dimpled the skin, spar, end ribs and all associated parts for the left elevator. I used a combination of my squeezer and the DRDT-2. I had to use my squeezer on the skin this time, due to how tight the trailing edge is. Once I had all my parts dimpled, I continued on with the rest of the plans. In the section titled ďRiveting the Left ElevatorĒ, Vanís has us start out by riveting E-704 End Rib and E-703 counterbalance rib together.



After that, we move on to riveting the E-610PP and E611PP reinforcement plates to the E-702 spar, along with the E-00001A and E-00001B doublers and the rivnuts. We have to be very careful here, as there are three different rivet lengths that attach all these together. I used the squeezer to set all these rivets.





I was running a bit out of gas, so I decided to finish up the session by knocking one more simple little part: The trim tab servo plate and brackets. This is a simple part and only requires about 6 rivets. I used the squeezer to set these flush rivets, and then test fitted the servo to make sure it was still all in alignment. It came out great.







Thats all for tonight. I still have a little bit more riveting to complete, so I will leave that for the next session. I have also spoken with my local EAA Tech Counselor, and heís going to come by this Saturday afternoon to give my project a look. I still have the horizontal stabilizer, vertical stabilizer and elevators to close up, so I will leave them until he can inspect them before closing them up. Hereís all the photos for tonight: https://goo.gl/photos/MEyHbRc28WovGerUA

Hours Worked: 3
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Lynn Dixon
RV-7 Slider -
Tail kit Completed - March 2017
Wing Kit Started - June 2017
My Build Log: http://www.theskunkwerx.com

VAF Donation paid for 2017
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  #64  
Old 08-19-2017, 01:48 PM
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CubedRoot CubedRoot is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ooltewah, TN.
Posts: 434
Default March 4th, 2017. Hours Worked: 1.75

Since I have had my horizontal stabilizer inspected and approved, I am ready to close it up and finish it! I started tonights session by re-clecoing the front spar onto the horizontal stabilizer. I had removed it so the inspector could get a good look inside and check my work. Once I had it all clecoed on, I double checked the orientation to make sure it was all correct.



Once it was all clecoed into place, the rest was pretty easy! I dropped in AN4263-3.5 rivets and squeezed them with my pneumatic squeezer. I skipped every other hole with clecos, so once I had the unclecod holes rivets squeezed, I went back and removed the clecos and riveted them. Squeezing makes a very nice rivet and everything came out looking very nice.





Once the rivets were set along the spar and skin, there were a few that we had to get to on the ends that attached the HS-706 tip rib to the HS-603PP rear spar. Those are using AN470 rivets, but I was still able to get them with the squeezer.



Then, there are 4 blind rivets that we have to set using a pop-rivet tool. These are what attach the HS-603PP rear spar to the HS-708 main rib, and we have to use BSPQ-5-4 blind rivets in these holes. These are some pretty beefy blind rivets, and it took a good bit of force on the pop rivet tool to get them set, but they came out looking great.



Finally, there are a few more AN470 universal head rivets that attach the HS-00005 inboard aft rib to the HS-603PP rear spar, but I was able to use a squeezer to set these. They are fairly long -7 rivets due to all the metal they tie together.





I did also cover my bolts with some torque seal, and made a **** of a mess with it! As you can see in the photos, this stuff is like Pro-Seal, and gets everywhere! I tried to clean it up the best I could and made sure the bolts were covered to make inspections easier. That was it for closing up the horizontal stabilizer! One of the suggestions that the Tech Counselor made was to make sure I included plenty of photos of me doing the work, which is a bit difficult given that I am building this plane all alone. I decided to use my old Go Pro and do some timelapse videos. I will include them in future posts. Here is the obligatory selfie of me holding the finished stabilizer!



And here is the time lapse video of the construction. I set the Go Pro to do a photo every 10 seconds, I may do it at 5 seconds on the next video. Let me know what you think.

https://youtu.be/lXyJUsTrnQg

Link to Google Photos: https://goo.gl/photos/RABUeY3Z4gXmMA9U9

Hours Worked: 1.75
__________________
Lynn Dixon
RV-7 Slider -
Tail kit Completed - March 2017
Wing Kit Started - June 2017
My Build Log: http://www.theskunkwerx.com

VAF Donation paid for 2017
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  #65  
Old 08-22-2017, 10:52 PM
gfb gfb is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 424
Default

Nice work! Really coming along!
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