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RV-4 forward top canopy skin as sun shade?

FinnFlyer

Well Known Member
Plans call for trimming top forward canopy skin after it's drilled to the frame.

Rather than trimming all the way to the 1/2" canopy attach tube, have any of you trimmed less, thus creating a partial sun shade for the instrument panel?

Finn
 
Per plans functions well

https://photos.app.goo.gl/seW9S7qUzU9PWX5i7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/XatzrPiLafjv7Bdq9

The canopy top skin corners shade much of the panel most of the time, and modern glass EFIS units and smart phones are very readable in direct sunlight. Monday I took the first flight using my new iPhone XR linked to Foreflight for GPS and even at half screen brightness it was very readable in direct sunlight, and the corner shaded it most of the time.
 
If you do any night flying and have EFIS or backlighting on anything, leaving it longer would help reduce glare on the canopy. But then think about where your forehead might land in an unfortunate accident...

I rebuild my panel and have a GRT Sport EX and even on the lowest brightness setting at night (which is fine in itself), it reflects off the inside of the canopy right in my forward line of sight which is unfortunate when landing at night. I realized I need about 4" of glareshield to stop that from happening but I think I'm going to go with neoprene or something soft for my beautiful money maker to squish on. :D

EDIT: re-read your original question... I think I was talking about something else. With regards to canopy skin; why would you want to reduce your viewing area by leaving that skin longer?
 
Last edited:
Thanks Brian.

How did you make room for that transponder?

I've already installed the F-402C Bulkhead Cross member, but am wondering if I can notch it for transponder and other deep avionics and instead strengthen it with an alum angle it the bottom ...

Finn
 
4"

So I sat in my RV-4 and it looks like a 6" overhang would not limit my view of the panel.

However, the "sharp" edge that far out could be disturbing (although, if the shoulder harness breaks, I'd probably have bigger problems).

So I cut to 4" from the front edge as a compromise. Intend to put protection on the edge (like a split thick 1/8" vacuum hose).

Finn
 
My experience

I trimmed my skin per plans, as I can see it would be very easy to have a serious head strike if things go bad. I experimented with some 1/4" styrofoam glareshield "inserts" in various shapes that could be velcro'd in place with mixed results. I have a small GPS mounted top center panel that is most affected by reflections, and for it, I made a small hood of black stiff cardboard that helps a bit. The biggest reflection advantage simply comes from my shirt color believe it or not.A white shirt is bigtime glare, black shirt, no glare. For cross country flights, I have a Nexus 7 tablet on a kneeboard..easy to see. Under no circumstance, do I want any rigid glareshield in my -4. When I do a "panel upgrade"one day, I do plan to inset my whole panel about 4"-6", which will require some major structural mods, but that's where it really needs to be in my opinion.
 
My experience

I trimmed my skin per plans, as I can see it would be very easy to have a serious head strike if things go bad. I experimented with some 1/4" styrofoam glareshield "inserts" in various shapes that could be velcro'd in place with mixed results. I have a small GPS mounted top center panel that is most affected by reflections, and for it, I made a small hood of black stiff cardboard that helps a bit. The biggest reflection advantage simply comes from my shirt color believe it or not.A white shirt is bigtime glare, black shirt, no glare. For cross country flights, I have a Nexus 7 tablet on a kneeboard..easy to see. Under no circumstance, do I want any rigid glareshield in my -4. When I do a "panel upgrade"one day, I do plan to inset my whole panel about 4"-6", which will require some major structural mods, but that's where it really needs to be in my opinion.
 
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