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Air Conditioning

kblack

Member
Just spoke w/ Bill at Airflow Systems (https://www.airflow-systems.com/rv-10/). Very helpful! Really wish they had more photos on website, although I did learn a lot from those posting here on VAF. Figured some others may have similar questions, so...
  • Quickbuild presents no problems. AFAIK, baggage floor is not installed by Van's. If it is, then an access needs to be added for condenser lines.
  • Routing lines down pax sidewall is a good way to go, since it is cooler and does not further clutter the tunnel. Builder routes the lines then obtains a loaner crimping tool from Airflow to install fittings.
  • Airflow offers a so-called "Australian" option for increased evaporator airflow, but I don't think I need it. Adds about 5 lbs and 5 Amps draw.
  • Evaporator airflow can be improved by using flat vents in place of eyeball vents in overhead. I'm planning to use the carbon fiber Aerosport Products Overhead Console (http://www.aerosportproducts.com/rv10overhead.htm), but may stick w/ the cool looking (costly!) eyeball vents.
  • Installed system weighs about 40 lbs
  • I will forego a fresh air mixing valve in favor of keeping stock front and rear fresh air vents. Not as elegant, but really simple.
  • Panel switches include an ON-OFF and a separate 3 position fan speed control.
  • From what I can tell, early problems with belts and idler pulley have been solved w/ serpentine belt system.
  • Recommends turn-down exhaust extensions to both direct hot exhaust away from condenser, and help quieten airplane.
  • Recommends sending flywheel to engine builder (in my case, Barrett) and tell them to make sure the pad on the lower LHS of block is drilled and tapped w/ studs for the compressor/idler mount.
  • Recommends increasing oil cooler from stock 13-row to 15-row, which needs turning vanes at inlet to improve air flow. Also, install manually operated butterfly in duct to oil cooler to regulate as needed.
  • Recommends adding cowl louvers on lower side(s) for improved exit air flow that can later be blocked if it's more than what is needed for engine/oil cooling. Bottom of cowl is not a good place due to higher pressure at that location.
  • Recommends sealing corrugated panels in aft baggage bulkheads.
  • Evaporator sits on shelf and is accessed by removing upper aft baggage bulkhead for freon charging, etc. Return air is appx 6" square penetration in lower aft baggage bulkhead.
  • Expect installed system to shift CG about 1/2" aft.
FWIW, I've just about settled on sticking w/ standard updraft, fuel-injected, using 9:1 compression for about 275hp. I really prefer cold air induction, but will likely choose to not deal w/ all the cowl, exhaust, and other work needed to make that work. If it were up to me I wouldn't install air conditioning, but it's not up to me. :)
 
I had my RV-10 transition training with Alex in TX during September. His 10 had AC and you will be glad you installed it 🔥🔥
 
Air conditioning

I have Airflow-Systems air conditioning in my RV10 since 2010 when I built it. I can't imagine flying the -10 in Oklahoma's hot summers without it. It has been working perfectly. Bill is an easy person to talk to and sells a great product. If you have any questions from a satisfied customer, give me a call. I occasionally go to flyins in the Grandbury area and would be glad to give you a ride to see the difference. I'm located in Tulsa at KRVS.
 
Interesting, I've got most of my airflow systems A/C plumbed firewall back and he never mentioned anything about.
1. Needing exhaust extensions.
2. Needing a return air in the rear bulkhead.
3. Needing to increase the size of the oil cooler.

Not sure on your engine, but he sent me a machined flywheel to replace my stock one.

You're welcome to come check out my install, I'm just south of Dallas in Cedar Hill.

Lynn
 
I have Bill’s system on my 10. Just clipped 500 hours.
Loved it on the most recent OSH trip. No matter what anyone says about not being needed once you’re in the air, that cabin can really heat up in the sun. If you’re facing the sun, the windscreen is like a magnifying glass and you’re the ant even if the OAT is mild. If you have it, you’ll use it way more than you anticipated.

I have the larger 07 oil cooler and did have to add a butterfly just to keep it in the green in winter.

I have the shark gills on the side.

I operated the system for about the first year using tailcone air. I then fabbed a cabin air inlet. Minor improvement, especially in taxi.

I have the exhaust tip extenders. They come with a single bolt each but the bolts aren’t necessary. Just slip them on, they won’t come off. I don’t use them all the time, just short hops in hot weather. They do make a difference, especially in descent when warm air does seem to enter the scoop.

Never heard of the Australian option.

If building again I would absolutely, without hesitation, install A/C again.
 
...
[*]Installed system weighs about 40 lbs

Interesting. I read a very thorough pirep from an engineer who installed an AirFlow Systems unit on his Glasair II and his W&B table shows weight increased 60 lbs... did you happen to actually measure your installed weight? Or did Bill significantly lighten his system recently?
 
Follow Up

Several items like Exhaust Extensions, Return Air Grill Location, ..., came up because I specifically asked. Weight is what I was told. My bet is that does not include things like an overhead console to distribute the air. It may also omit hoses which vary due to builder routing preferences.

I'll definitely plan to follow up w/ some of you guys to see your installations as I get a bit further along. Thanks for the offers!
 
Edit: I finally found the log entry and total weight for the components from Bill came in at 43 lbs. This was for all the normal components, compressor, brackets, hoses, scoop, condenser, shelf, New Flywheel, etc. Everything he sent. So now you have to add to that the weight for refrigerant and the overhead console, and any other misc.

One thing I will say is Bill has been great at sending different fittings as I modified the install for my plane. The install has added a lot of time to my build, but it's the one thing I've wanted from the beginning.

Lynn
 
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One additional thought about A/C. Some people when building and planning on A/C, desire massive amounts of airflow where the quantity is more important than the temperature, hence the double blower ?Aussie? option.
Personally, I prefer the softer blow with colder air and here?s why.
Even with the single blower on high, the force of the air is high enough to break squelch on your intercom and create white noise in your headset by blowing on the headset mic, especially with four headset users in the airplane. It does get annoying after a bit requiring turning the fan down to mitigate. I have the Aerosport overhead with the Boeing style vents from Stein. Bill?s original overhead with the large minivan vents would be different.
 
I have the Flightline system and modified it quite a bit in partnership with John Strain with Kelly Aerospace to move the intake and exhaust for the condenser to the side skins. Without turning this into a "which is better," there are advantages to either system. I agree that A/C is a standard option for the 10. It makes flying so much more comfortable (I have it in the DA-40 I fly now) and a lot of non-flyers are more willing to go on an adventure being cool and comfortable.

Check out my build log for some of the modifications that I made. To Myron's point, either system you go with, there are limitations and requirements for any system to work efficiently. Airflow across the condenser and evaporator are key to success. It doesn't have to be crazy velocity, more about volume. I used 3" vents from Summit Racing that will provide plenty of flow while still providing some direction and are able to be closed off.
 
air conditioning

Kliff,
I had the original evaporator Bill sold and it didn't put out enough cooling air for me. I installed the larger evaporator and now get plenty of cooling air. I have two 4" flood vents on the back bulkhead which fills the cabin with cool air. I also supply air to the overhead duct with a 3" hose from the evaporator.

Something you might want to consider when wiring the evaporator, Bill uses 16-18 gauge wire to the evaporator fan. I used 22 gauge wire to 3 relays mounted on the evaporator shelf from the fan switch. I ran a fused wire directly from the battery to the relays for the evaporator fan. I have a 4th relay that runs a 3" axial duct fan to help push the air thru the overhead duct. This fan comes on when the fan switch is selected to high.
Details at: http://www.nwacaptain.com/rv10/10aircnd/modified_evaporator_installation.pdf
 
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