I'm getting the canopy all set up to do sika instead of rivets.
I was wondering about a couple things.
If I'm reading correctly all the applications I've seen (in the forum) have been to prime, then set the canopy frame in place, strap everything then squeeze in the sika. I was wondering if anyone has tried using the "automotive" method which would be to sika the canopy (or the frame) first, THEN drop the frame on the canopy, strap everything down. The obvious advantage is that the squish out is probably a better way to set it even if you want to add more sika later to improve the filet. Further, as to blind setting the acrylic/frame in the right place you have the hole front middle for the latch and can probably set the aft by pre-cutting notches where the square tube and the acrylic are finalized later. Yes, no ???
The other question this leads to is about the spacers. If you use the automotive method I'm not sure why spacers would be required. With round tube against a flat acrylic you achieve the minimum sika thickness almost instantly as the tube curves away from the flat surface. You may have some direct contact points but everything else would be as Sika intended (squish down automotive method).
Thanks for all your insights in advance.
I was wondering about a couple things.
If I'm reading correctly all the applications I've seen (in the forum) have been to prime, then set the canopy frame in place, strap everything then squeeze in the sika. I was wondering if anyone has tried using the "automotive" method which would be to sika the canopy (or the frame) first, THEN drop the frame on the canopy, strap everything down. The obvious advantage is that the squish out is probably a better way to set it even if you want to add more sika later to improve the filet. Further, as to blind setting the acrylic/frame in the right place you have the hole front middle for the latch and can probably set the aft by pre-cutting notches where the square tube and the acrylic are finalized later. Yes, no ???
The other question this leads to is about the spacers. If you use the automotive method I'm not sure why spacers would be required. With round tube against a flat acrylic you achieve the minimum sika thickness almost instantly as the tube curves away from the flat surface. You may have some direct contact points but everything else would be as Sika intended (squish down automotive method).
Thanks for all your insights in advance.