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Toggle switch question

C

cbennet1

Well Known Member
I'm sure the answer must be staring me in the face, but....

I'm interested in using a three position switch for my landing light. My preference would be to have it wired for: OFF (down), Landing (middle), Wig Wag (Up). That's a OFF-ON-ON switch of which doesn't exist as far as I know. Plenty of ON-OFF-ON switches. :)

How have others solved this?

Thanks,
Craig
 
Pretty sure such a switch is out there, but you could also use a on-on-on, and just not hook up one set of terminals.
 
I want one also

I have the on-off-on switch in both rvs with wig wag up, off in middle and landing light on down. Works great, but would change switches if one exists.
 
ON-ON-ON

Be sure to use a relay to switch the large current devices or a very high quality switch rated for the task with room to spare. I prefer the relay, good for 20amps. Got them from www.BandC.biz

Bevan
 
Let's start with how the toggle switch works and I think it will help you understand what you need and how to hook it up.

First in a normal SPDT switch (ON - ON). OK you have to think about what is happening mechanically when you throw the switch. When the switch is in the down position it moves the contact to the upper position which connects the center and upper terminal. When you move the switch to the up position it moves the contact to the lower position and connects the center to lower terminal.

Then for a (ON - OFF - ON), it could still be a SPDT switch, there may be a center position where the contacts do not connect the center terminal to either the upper or lower.

So what you need is a (ON-ON-ON) switch which is more specialized, but they are available. This requires a SPTT (single pole, tripple throw switch). In this type of switch there are 2 sets of contacts in the switch that allow the switch to make contact when in the center position. You don't really care about this, but just so you understand that what you have asked to do can't be done with the more basic switches. These swtiches obviously have at least 4 terminals. Here is a link to an NKK datasheet that shows what they call a 3 throw switch. Many manufacturers make these, I've just included this link to point you in the right direction.

http://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/MtogglesBushing.pdf

I hope this helps.
 
Switch

Hi All,

I neglected to mention that I am using AeroLED lights that only require a 12v signal to go in to wig wag so a relay is unnecessary.

The ON - ON - ON switch is a good option that I considered but saw nothing from the usual sources such as Spruce.

Thanks for the pointers.

Craig
 
Aero LED Diagram

I have the switch from B&C listed above. It is really a On-On-On configuration. It all depends on how you wire it up. Here is the diagram for how I did it.

LandingLightsSplice.jpg
 
I use Honeywell 2TL1-10 DPDT On-On-On switches for a couple of functions.

1. Landing/Taxi lights (Off, Landing only on, Landing & Taxi on)
2. EFIS power (Off, Aux battery on, Avionic bus + Aux bat on)

I also use a variation (2TL1-50) (On,On,Mom.)for Fuel pump and Fuel line purge.

And a similar one (2TL1-7) (Mom, off, Mom) for my flaps
 
pmccoy said:
I have the switch from B&C listed above. It is really a On-On-On configuration. It all depends on how you wire it up. Here is the diagram for how I did it.

LandingLightsSplice.jpg
Click to expand...

VERY nice diagram. If I'm reading it correctly (possible I am not), are you applying 12V to the main power lines (red) on the LED's in Wig Wag mode? Isn't that redundant as applying 12V to the w/w (yellow) line powers the LED's?

Craig
 
VERY nice diagram. If I'm reading it correctly (possible I am not), are you applying 12V to the main power lines (red) on the LED's in Wig Wag mode? Isn't that redundant as applying 12V to the w/w (yellow) line powers the LED's?
Click to expand...

Power is running to Landing Red, or Wig Wag Yellow, but not both. The switch diagram on the upper right show which poles are hot in each configuration. The key is the jumper between the middle poles on the switch. With power coming into the switch on the lower left, no connection is made if the switch is down. In the middle position, power is made from bottom left - through the middle - and out the upper right, powering the yellow or wig wag circuit. Landing circuit comes in lower left up to and over at the middle and out the lower right. That only works with the switch all the way up. Hope that helps.
 
Thread drift - making the diagram

Peter, what software did you use to make that diagram?

Even though I use to work with computers for a living, I've never been able to conquer making electrical diagram on a computer - or most any other kind of diagram unless it's dead simple.
 
Software

Peter, what software did you use to make that diagram?

Even though I use to work with computers for a living, I've never been able to conquer making electrical diagram on a computer - or most any other kind of diagram unless it's dead simple.
Click to expand...

I am in the graphics industry, so I used what I know. This was all done in Adobe InDesign. It allows for vector based illustrations and precise placement. I created my own symbols, matching what was used in Knuckolls diagrams. Then I was able to copy and paste what I needed between my master electrical diagram, and each specific circuit that I designed.

It was a lot of work, but in the end, it allows me to make quick modifications and create a new drawing for each circuit I put into the plane. It will be handy down the road, when I don't remember how or why I used a relay or diode. The drawings are very detailed and precise, primarily for future reference.
 
Honeywell tl switches

If anyone's interested, this page describes the Honeywell TL series, which meet a bunch of mil specs. They are nice switches. Since we use a lot of them where I work I got a smokin' employee discount deal on them for my panel. As much as I like them, they'd be off the radar otherwise, due to price.
 
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