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Should I use anti-seize grease?

Rob H

Well Known Member
I'm a new builder. I'm ready to install the Fwd Skin to the V-Stab Assembly using the nut plates and AN507C832R8 screws. Is it common practice or advisable to treat the threads with anti seize grease? Just thinking it may make inspections and access easier down the road.
 
EAA tips for Homebuilders has a video where the nut plates are tapped which makes inserting/removing screws a lot smoother. One uses a little oil with the tap if i recall.

Its a little controversial as some would say that a nut plate that has been tapped is less secure and will hold the screw with less tension than non-tapped. Personally I've tapped almost every nut plate in the aircraft and from my experience all of them seem very secure. Given how often some panels will be removed and reinstalled over time, I'm glad I did this. I've only stripped one nut plate over several years so far (and it was a nut plate that I didn't tap to begin with)
 
Maybe.... if you were using stainless screws. I did try SS screws and hated them. Your standard kit screws will do just fine with nothing on them, at least till the A/C is painted.

During my inspection, I drop all nut plate screws in a cup with WD40 and that seams to be enough lube. A good quality phillips head and proper installation will make the screws last a long time.
 
I often put a small dab of bees wax on the screw, or whatever wax is in a toilet seal ring. Keeps the SS screw from galling the nutplate threads.
 
I agree. Boelube on all screws going in to nut plates. Please don't tap them as others have suggested.

Yes... once a new screw has been used in a new nutplate with a bit of Boelube (or wax), all subsequent insertions will be much easier and less likely to torque the heads off, or screw up the Phillips slots, of the screws.

I too found that the stainless screw replacements don't work as well as the standard cad. plated hardware.

Tapping Mil-Spec hardware for easy insertion isn't in any of the usual FAA documents...:rolleyes:
 
I agree with Zilik. Do not tap and use lubricant. I always thought that WD40 was a lubricant, but it is not.
 
Ok, thanks for your replies. I just ordered a stick of Boelube. By the way, the screws that came with my kit are stainless. Thanks again.
 
Stainless Screws in Nut Plates

Boelube every time as mentioned earlier, just a bit on the first few threads. Subsequent installs become a lot easier but still grip well to prevent loosening.

Use good quality, new screwdriver bits, go easy and keep the screwdriver aligned with the axis of the screw.

I've boogered up a LOT fewer screws since I ordered bits from Snap-On. They are only a couple bucks apiece, last a long time, and have a unique gripping design.
 
I've used wax. It was called out in the wheel fairing to keep epoxy from sticking to the screws. You should never tap a locking fastener.
 
I am just finishing up my first condition inspection, so last night I installed about half a million screws. I've had all that stuff apart before since I bought the plane. Last night I used Boelube paste on most of them. It did make things go a lot easier.

Having said that, I'm somewhat underwhelmed with Boelube. The paste is only "paste" up to about room temperature. After that it goes to "goopy liquid that gets on everything". Maybe it's just mine, but it seems to liquefy at around 75 degrees or so. I have the stick stuff also, and it's a bit crumbly and little crumbs get everywhere. I think I'll switch to beeswax in the future. I have a lifetime supply.
 
Having said that, I'm somewhat underwhelmed with Boelube. The paste is only "paste" up to about room temperature. After that it goes to "goopy liquid that gets on everything". Maybe it's just mine, but it seems to liquefy at around 75 degrees or so. I have the stick stuff also, and it's a bit crumbly and little crumbs get everywhere. I think I'll switch to beeswax in the future. I have a lifetime supply.

Boelube has excellent properties for cutting tools..... I don't use it for a lubricant beyond that. As you witnessed, it flows as the tool heats, which is exactly what you want.
I wouldn't worry about lubrication for #8 screws, which are the bulk of what you are dealing with, but that is just me. It won't hurt, but I use a low torque, low speed, electric screw driver and it isn't an issue. I have never had one break off, not even close. Good Bits are a MUST!

For #4 and #6 screws I dip the very end in a light machine oil.

If I find the time, I will look for the specific Mil spec on what we use in the Van's kits, but other specs that I have seen call out dry lubricants where they call anything out.

I am not sure if tapping would harm the spring back qualities of the pinched down portion that provides the "locking". Just never needed to tap them for any reason.

I have found far more bad nutplates, poor threads, missing threads completely, etc... than I would have thought possible with an MS part however.
 
I tapped all my nut plates. I would not tap a lock nut. I use a dab of lithium grease on trouble screws if tapping the nut plate doesn't do the trick.
 
I tapped all my nut plates. I would not tap a lock nut. I use a dab of lithium grease on trouble screws if tapping the nut plate doesn't do the trick.

What is a "troubled screw"? Can't say I know what that is and I have installed hundreds (probably thousands).
I guess I don't get the whole thing of why folks are having so much trouble with nut plates and screws, short of them being defective and then they get changed out. Help me understand the issues you folks are seeing.
 
Jon,

Can't say why some few screw and nut plate combinations seem tougher than others. In my days on nuke subs we attributed such behavior to "nuclear phenomenon"😜

Rich
 
risking overtorque?

I am wondering if there is a chance of exceeding the torque limit, if you apply lube on the bolts before assembling?
 
Chris,

Do you really use a torque wrench on Phillips head machine screws? We use to use a phrase in the maintenance engineering world: good mechanical judgement.

Rich
 
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