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  #31  
Old 12-18-2014, 11:21 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 7,854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stockmanreef View Post
This is a reference for the "Gotchas" section.

The holes which the plans say to "leave open" DO NOT get dimpled. The holes are for the fairing (which will come in the finishing kit) and the fairing holes will be counter sunk (CS).

The note just prior to the Step which begins the instructions to dimple says

NOTE: Tape over holes that do not receive
rivets at this time to avoid accidentally riveting
these hole locations. See Figures 1 and 2 for
locations.


The intent is that if you are not to rivet them, you are also not to dimple them.

I will suggest that the note be changed to
NOTE: Tape over holes that do not receive
rivets at this time to avoid accidentally dimpling or riveting
these hole locations. See Figures 1 and 2 for
locations.
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Scott McDaniels
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  #32  
Old 12-19-2014, 10:05 AM
HeliCooper HeliCooper is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 255
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Can I just flatten out the dimples with a flat squeezer set then?
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  #33  
Old 12-19-2014, 11:57 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliCooper View Post
Can I just flatten out the dimples with a flat squeezer set then?
It is best to leave it as it is. It will not cause a problem.
When the hole gets final drilled for the emp. fairing attach attach screws, it will get enlarged enough to remove the majority of the dimple.
This is a much better result than the distortion that will occur in the skin surface if you try and flatten out the dimpled (stretched) material.
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Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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  #34  
Old 12-20-2014, 10:12 AM
HeliCooper HeliCooper is offline
 
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Location: Des Moines, IA
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Thank you much!
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  #35  
Old 01-17-2015, 02:22 PM
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jeffw@sc47 jeffw@sc47 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Simpsonville, SC (SC47)
Posts: 215
Default "Match Drill", this is a flag to take heed and pay attention . . . .

. . . and to not take the diagrammatic illustrations in the assembly instructions literally.

I finally have learned a major lesson, that kind of lesson pilots learn about flying in a few seconds and that you had previously heard about but only now take heed of after first hand experience.

I had heard from a few other RV builders and in Van's Section 5, something like this >> "Read each assembly section and page a few times and follow each step explicitly."

And, if there is not an alert (NOTE) in BOLD >> highlight the match drill instruction and the parts that you match drilled. Mark sufficiently the parts so that when they are disassembled, they can for sure be reattached correctly.
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Jeff Warren
Simpsonville, SC (SC47 - 10nm NW Triple Tree, SC00)
1946 Bellanca Cruisair 14-13-2 (72 YRS OLD 8/15/18)
RV14A (N14ZT), Ser#140195
Start 10/11/14
Dues paid 12/2/18 (USArmy 2/67-2/70)
www.mykitlog.com/jeffw@sc47

!! I SURVIVED RIPON ARRIVAL - KOSH 7/21/2018 !!

Last edited by jeffw@sc47 : 01-20-2015 at 04:27 PM. Reason: got too detailed for the lesson learned, better explaination in next repl of the potential Gotcha >>
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  #36  
Old 01-20-2015, 09:39 AM
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jeffw@sc47 jeffw@sc47 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Simpsonville, SC (SC47)
Posts: 215
Default Gotcha 08-02, Rear Spar

Attached is a better description of the Plan Gotcha; RV14, Empennage, pg 08-02, Rev 0, 4/15/13.



Hind sight is close to 20/20 >> The four 1/8" pilot holes are in the rear spar and the match drilled #30 holes go into the spar doubler. The fault of drilling the holes the second time into the rear spar was clearly mine in not marking the parts when I disassembled them. It was when I reassembled them, inadvertently rotating the spar doubler and seeing that the four holes in the doubler did not have corresponding holes in the spar, I then re-drilled into the spar the second time (BIG mistake). It was my bad for ruining the spar. This error may have been avoided if there had been a warning about the unique alignment and/or it had been illustrated accurately. Live and learn.

Anyhow, much thanks to Van's for going the extra mile in helping me fix my error.
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Jeff Warren
Simpsonville, SC (SC47 - 10nm NW Triple Tree, SC00)
1946 Bellanca Cruisair 14-13-2 (72 YRS OLD 8/15/18)
RV14A (N14ZT), Ser#140195
Start 10/11/14
Dues paid 12/2/18 (USArmy 2/67-2/70)
www.mykitlog.com/jeffw@sc47

!! I SURVIVED RIPON ARRIVAL - KOSH 7/21/2018 !!

Last edited by jeffw@sc47 : 01-24-2015 at 07:34 AM.
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  #37  
Old 01-26-2015, 04:54 PM
JHartline JHartline is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Carrollton, GA 5GA2
Posts: 180
Default Page 10-13: Attaching the F-01407 Bulkhead to the bellcrank ribs

Revision 1 adds a new step 1 to this page. 470AD4-4 rivets are called out to attach the bulkhead to the bellcrank rib/battery angle assembly. I found that the nutplate on the battery angle really crowds access to the bottom rivet hole. If I had it to do over again I would leave that nutplate out (page 10-12) until I got the bulkhead attached and then install the nutplate. I guess that would make it Step 1A on page 10-13.

Also, on page 10-14 step 11 (optional) you are instructed to dimple the #27 holes in the left and right skins per figure 2. The illustration callout says "6X DIMPLE #27 HOLES" and it does not address the two upper #27 holes on each side. What did the front-runners do here? Looks like they need dimples too.
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James Hartline
Carrollton, GA 5GA2
RV-14 - Finish and FWF in progress
T-Bolt IO-390
Maule MX7-180
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  #38  
Old 02-22-2015, 07:10 PM
HiPlanesDrifter HiPlanesDrifter is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 30
Default Either way will work

As for page 10-14 step 11 (optional) where you are instructed to dimple the #27 holes only 6 holes on each side, all but the top two, this really caused me to scratch my head as well.

Looked ahead and saw where the plans had you to machine countersink the completed assembly at page 10-20, step 3. Why in the world not do this at the same time as the other six? And I sure didnt want to risk having that knife edge in the skin holes.

So I did all 8 together in the "normal" way, and then began to worry I may have messed up. Contacted Vans's, and much to my relief, they said I will be fine. Still did not understand why the deviant procedure however.

Figured it out when I went to rivet on the nutplates behind these top two sets of holes. Ah ha!!! the #27 dimple on the backside of the skin is slightly larger than the #27 countersink in the longeron, causing the skin to pucker out ever so slightly.

Story ended well. Simpy used my squeezer to compress these puckers. Placed one set on the back side of the nut plate, and then pressed the pucker inward using the opposite set to flatten it back. Seemed to sort of push it into the longeron countersink. Worked great.

Just shows Vans really knows what they are talking about. As if I doubted?
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Chuck Robertson
Amarillo, TX - River Falls Airport (H81)
And
Westcliffe, CO

RV-14a / Builder #140137
Empennage/Aft Fuselage built / Wings arrived / Build on hold until approx Summer 2016 - can't wait to get restarted!
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  #39  
Old 02-27-2015, 06:45 PM
HiPlanesDrifter HiPlanesDrifter is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 30
Default Page 10-27, rev 1: Flush rivets added?

Rev 1 on page 10-27 calls for flush rivets in the holes circled in red for the aft deck. This callout was changed from dome heads at a -4 length in Rev 0 to flush rivets at -3.5 length in rev 1. I have a feeling they meant to only change the length, and not the style to flush. Nothing in plans called for dimpling or countersinking these holes. Is this a typo in Rev 1 and should be calling out dome head rivets here?

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Chuck Robertson
Amarillo, TX - River Falls Airport (H81)
And
Westcliffe, CO

RV-14a / Builder #140137
Empennage/Aft Fuselage built / Wings arrived / Build on hold until approx Summer 2016 - can't wait to get restarted!

Last edited by HiPlanesDrifter : 02-27-2015 at 07:08 PM.
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  #40  
Old 02-27-2015, 07:21 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 7,854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiPlanesDrifter View Post
I have a feeling they meant to only change the length, and not the style to flush.
I have a feeling you are correct.

I will look into it on Monday.
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Scott McDaniels
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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