Centre tunnel heat

Gents
I recently asked about differential pressure in the cockpit, under the title of CABIN PRESSURE. The reason for the question is that I am trying to come up with a simple ventilation solution to the heat issue in the centre section. This is for a home built, not lsa, so mod issues don't exist.
One theory is that when the vents are opened, more air enters the cabin. One has to query, is this due to a negative pressure in the cabin, and the vents simply allow more air to be "sucked" in, or is there pressure due to ram air being pushed in to help fill the void.
Kind of goes back to the theory of flight stuff all the books used to have, or the real reason a wing lifts.
Thanks

Ventilation is one solution. Another is to insulate the center section. I covered mine with thin indoor-outdoor carpet.

I bought the interior kit with carpet. I have never noticed a heat issue.

Make sure you are not mistaking heat leakage from the cabin heater for center tunnel heat.

After my first flight, I had to re-do the seal for the heater door. I was getting a lot of heater air even when the heater control was in the closed position.

Van's heater door cable design could use some improvement. The "fixed" end of the cable really needs a more solid mount. Also, in the instructions for making the door seal, Van's has you tape the door closed. Well, the tape closes the door tighter than the cable. When I re-did the seal, I used just the cable pressure to close the door and got a much better seal.

Rick_A said:

Make sure you are not mistaking heat leakage from the cabin heater for center tunnel heat.

After my first flight, I had to re-do the seal for the heater door. I was getting a lot of heater air even when the heater control was in the closed position.

Van's heater door cable design could use some improvement. The "fixed" end of the cable really needs a more solid mount. Also, in the instructions for making the door seal, Van's has you tape the door closed. Well, the tape closes the door tighter than the cable. When I re-did the seal, I used just the cable pressure to close the door and got a much better seal.

Click to expand...

Rick- I just finished the first condition inspection on the RV12 you built, and I now have the privilege of owning. I agree Van's cable design could use MUCH improvement. I tried lubing the entire length, found it still very stiff, made the mistake of not confirming it was closed before replacing the cowling. Test flight this afternoon, first flight after condition inspection, it was only when I lifted off that I realized the door must be stuck open. I was in an OVEN. I can't see any way to make Van's design move more freely. I think I will have to come up with a new design.

benburb said:

Rick- I just finished the first condition inspection on the RV12 you built, and I now have the privilege of owning. I agree Van's cable design could use MUCH improvement. I tried lubing the entire length, found it still very stiff, made the mistake of not confirming it was closed before replacing the cowling. Test flight this afternoon, first flight after condition inspection, it was only when I lifted off that I realized the door must be stuck open. I was in an OVEN. I can't see any way to make Van's design move more freely. I think I will have to come up with a new design.

Click to expand...

Look in the plans
There is a device under the panel that is used to add friction so that the door will stay in the selected position.

If the door was full open when you had the cockpit control in the off position then you probably messed up something with the rigging of the control cable.