No weld handles

As my wife and I are somewhat older I selected it install "no weld handles" on my 9A rollbar. So here's the question. The vender makes it easy drill 3/16" holes through the rollbar enlarge the aft holes to fit the Handles legs. This looks like a way to screw up the rollbar. Need to have the two fore and aft holes line up. There's a number of variables that need to line up for this to be successful. How did the successful installers of no weld handles make the four holes?

Thanks for any help

Wow. If I could sketch out my idea, I think it would be easier to understand but I'll try to explain how I would try to line that hole up:

I would start with a 2x4 or 4x4 block of wood. Next I would cut a square notch in it such that it would rest completely against the rollbar (Rollbar in the notch). Once I have that cut, I would take it to a drill press to drill straight through it so I could run a drill bit through either direction. With this device, I would then have a drill jig that I could run a hand drill through. If you make this device wide enough, you could drill both the holes that correspond to your handle attach point at the same time and (provided you measured the distance between the attach legs correctly) it would be dead-on.

I would likely start by drilling the holes 3/32" and enlarging as necessary. Even using this jig to "nick" the front and back of the roll bar will give you an accurate location to drill holes with after removing the jig.

The angle at which the handles attach the rollbar would be a concern but the jig could be rotated on the rollbar until you find an angle that is ideal (although, if you're not careful, they might be different from one handle to the other).

Another method might be to measure the circumference of the rollbar. Drill the front hole (where the handle will exit)...exactly half way around would be 180 degrees from the "IN" (where screws would attach handles. Drill both sides separately (and start small). Enlarge as needed.

I hope these ideas help you come up with a workable plan. (I think the second might be easier than the first but it didn't come to me until after I thought about it.)

Good luck!

Leave room

Eave room for the slider roll bar and plex.
Bill

Drill a through hole with the small size bit to fit the attachment screw.

Enlarge the aft side as needed to fit the handle in.

Do it on a drill press if the roll bar is not installed, or use a drill with a built in level if the roll bar is installed.

Are you sure that you need / want the handles? I know of two builders that have them and don't use them at all for a couple of reasons. 1 they are quite small and not that easy to grip. 2. Be careful when closing the canopy that someone is not holding onto one of the handles. It is easy to crunch fingers between the canopy and handle. In my 9A I did not install the handles. to egress I grab the center roll bar brace that runs down the center of the windshield. Grab it as high as you can its easier and no crunched fingers. Those guys with the handles use the same technique. If you can find someone local and get in and out a few times, its not that difficult.

Russ
RV9-A 1909k flying

I first deciding on the location for each of them, about the same distance from the center of the roll bar as they each wide are (approx. 4"), and then some contemplating about drilling the holes. A consideration is when the canopy is shut, you don't want for forward bow hitting them. Mine are close and the forward canopy bow actually scrapped one of the handles. I took a dead blow hammer and gave the installed handle a good whack and now everything works fine. I think I drilled through initially with a 3/32" bit, keeping in mind the angle (up or downward) needed to assure the handles would not interfere with the canopy bow. It's pretty close.

From inside the cockpit view, you locate and drill the aft hole as best you can on the roll bar. Stick a drill bit or stiff wire in there to check with the canopy bow. Perhaps using a piece of wire bent around the roll bar 180 degrees with the ends bent 90 degrees to the 180 bend will help by moving it around until you have a suitable location with the canopy shut, keeping in mind the thickness of the handles. A drawing might be easier:



Here is a photo. Hope this will help some (I eventually removed the paint from the handles and left them raw aluminum - looks better and doesn't chip):

Send them back. Grab the center bar as suggested. For a number of reasons., all good ones.

Don't over think it

Just eyeball it.

Do make sure they don't interfere with the slider though.

Alternate Handles

I went a little different route with the handles. I fabricated them from aluminum rod and they are considerably deeper for more hand room than the ones commercially available. I formed them to shape, then drilled and tapped the ends for 10-32 Cap screws. (not sure I remember the size accurately of the screw) The total cost for both handles and a couple of remakes to get them the way I wanted was about $10.00. Yes people do use them as the are comfortable and there is plenty of room for your hand.

not just for show......

These are pretty nice for 'non-expert' Rv riders, who don't know all the right places to grab or push or lift to get in & out. I put green vinyl tape on all the places that are 'safe' for people to touch, and a little red on things I don't want them grabbing. Seems folks tend to grab the canopy edge and windshield bow.These handles are green of course.
...I think mine are canted downward a few degrees from level to ensure clearance to the canopy bow, but don't get carried away, or they become a scalping hazard.

another BIG use; when I am shoe-horned under the dash doing an inspection, or fixing something, I reach up (blind) and feel for them, then use that lift point to drag myself up onto the seat. You could do this with the centre strut, but surely not as easy to find & get a grip on.

JSOliveira said:

I went a little different route with the handles. I fabricated them from aluminum rod and they are considerably deeper for more hand room than the ones commercially available. I formed them to shape, then drilled and tapped the ends for 10-32 Cap screws. (not sure I remember the size accurately of the screw) The total cost for both handles and a couple of remakes to get them the way I wanted was about $10.00. Yes people do use them as the are comfortable and there is plenty of room for your hand.

Click to expand...

Here is a photo of my deeper handles.