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Hanging Fuse by Crankshaft

L

lr172

Well Known Member
I am painting my 6A myself and looking for ways to avoid having to shoot the bottom of the fuse from below. I will be spraying the plane in parts. I had an ideal to hang the fuse from the Prop flange of the crankshaft via an engine hoist and flipping it upside down and supporting the tail end with a saw horse. When I rebuilt my Porsche engine, the crank flange was connected to the engine stand.

Does anyone think this would put undo stress on the crankshaft? I can't seem to find an alternate method that would allow the fuse to spin while carrying the weight. I can't really paint untill I get the engine mounted so that I can fit the cowl and rivet the hinges or plates to the fuse. I think I could flip it without the engine, but not with it.

I appreciate your ideas and knowledge here.

Larry
 
I wouldn't do it. I have used a strap around the top tube of an engine mount to lift a few planes, but supporting the entire weight of the airplane by the crankshaft flange in this manner will be applying a much larger side load than the crankshaft, engine case and engine mount are designed for.
 
You're kidding me, right?

You only have to bend a $5,000 crank just a little bit before it becomes a paperweight.
 
We rolled it on its side. For my more recent painting, I'm using the collapsible cups from DeVilbiss that allow upside down painting and it works well enough that I would just paint from a rolling creeper.

IMG_2307.JPG
 
I painted my fuse with the engine on and I had the wings and tail off. I had a helper pick up the tail while I sprayed the underside. The taller the helper the better.
Now this will only work if you have a conventional gear plane.
 
I would be concerned about the Lord mounts.

It would be much better if you can lift by the engine mount itself. Lifting by the engine will not do the engine isolator mounts any good. They are designed to support only the engine/prop weight in the vertical moment.
Yes, they are also designed to support a certain amount of "G" loading too, but why add the stress.
 
Get a pair of ramps and back the mains up onto the ramps. That'll help some. You could also remove the nose wheel and leave the gear leg attached to provide a little better geometry.
 
lr172 said:
I am painting my 6A myself and looking for ways to avoid having to shoot the bottom of the fuse from below. I will be spraying the plane in parts. I had an ideal to hang the fuse from the Prop flange of the crankshaft via an engine hoist and flipping it upside down and supporting the tail end with a saw horse. When I rebuilt my Porsche engine, the crank flange was connected to the engine stand.

Does anyone think this would put undo stress on the crankshaft? I can't seem to find an alternate method that would allow the fuse to spin while carrying the weight. I can't really paint untill I get the engine mounted so that I can fit the cowl and rivet the hinges or plates to the fuse. I think I could flip it without the engine, but not with it.

I appreciate your ideas and knowledge here.

Larry
Click to expand...

I know of an EZ builder who did as you are proposing and wound up with a bent flange. He was doubly foolish as he bolted a 2x4 to the prop flange instead of slinging behind the flange.

I'm uncertain why you are reluctant to remove the engine for paint; it isn't more than 90 minutes to rehang it and less that to remove the engine. I've helped paint 3 or 4 RV-4's, half a dozen EZ's, and a Glasair and wouldn't have wanted to keep the engines on through paint.
 
deek said:
I know of an EZ builder who did as you are proposing and wound up with a bent flange. He was doubly foolish as he bolted a 2x4 to the prop flange instead of slinging behind the flange.

I'm uncertain why you are reluctant to remove the engine for paint; it isn't more than 90 minutes to rehang it and less that to remove the engine. I've helped paint 3 or 4 RV-4's, half a dozen EZ's, and a Glasair and wouldn't have wanted to keep the engines on through paint.
Click to expand...

This probably makes the most sense. I guess I can hang the engine, move straight to cowl fitting then remove it before I start baffles and wiring.

Wanted to avoid painting on my back and keep replacing glasses as they fill with paint.
 
Cling film...

Wanted to avoid painting on my back and keep replacing glasses as they fill with paint.

Find a set of safety goggles that will allow your glasses to fit comfortably within. Then stretch 'cling film', you might call it 'saran wrap' over the outside of the goggles allowing you an ultra cheap peel off ply. When your vision reduces as paint builds on the film, peel off the layer and reapply fresh film!
 
I lifted mine by the engine mounts. If you can get some type of lift to the rafters or something overhead it is pretty well balanced with just a small load on the tail lift.

IMG_9510.JPG
 
My dad laid on his back on a creeper and shot the paint while I directed the hose and slowly pulled him by the ankles when necessary. Sounds a little funny but it worked great. :D You may want to raise the 6A a little as I believe it's a little closer to the ground. Oh and we used one of those paint bag things in the paint gun cup so we could shoot upside down.
 
You could just remove the nose gear and lift the tail. That would make it easier to paint. The nose could put high enough that the prop flange is almost on the floor or outside on the ground. I have done this a few times with the tail wheel plane and works well, no wrecked back.
 
Glasses

If you value your health a forced air breathing system with a full hood will take care of your glasses.
 
Norman CYYJ said:
You could just remove the nose gear and lift the tail. That would make it easier to paint. The nose could put high enough that the prop flange is almost on the floor or outside on the ground. I have done this a few times with the tail wheel plane and works well, no wrecked back.
Click to expand...

I thought about this. was afraid that the cog would try to push the wheel backwards under strong force. wasn't sure I could brace them well enough. The further you lean it forward the more it will want to keep tipping forward. I was afraid at some point all the fuse weight will transfer to the engine being held by the lift. No issue if I pull the engine, but then I can flip with a couple of helpers.
 
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