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  #1  
Old 05-23-2018, 02:50 AM
Mikeandmaz Mikeandmaz is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: England
Posts: 26
Default Difficult Rudder Rivet

On page 7:10; Step 4, the instructions say rivet the aft 8 holes common to the Bottom rib, Rudder Skin Assembly, and Attach Strip. Fig 1, on the same page shows the rivets to be completed leaving the last hole before the TE open. Did that.
Step 3 rivets the Bottom ribs together, this Iíve also done.

But now it would seem impossible to rivet that last hole left open in Step 2 as there is hardly room to get the rivet in let alone a bucking bar.

Any ideas? Apart from drilling out the blind rivets holding the two bottom ribs together.

Thanks in advance.

Mike
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  #2  
Old 05-23-2018, 04:59 AM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
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Mike,

I bucked it against the opposing rivet on a back rivet plate.
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Old 05-23-2018, 05:46 AM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
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Any reason not to use MK-319BS?
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  #4  
Old 05-23-2018, 06:25 AM
Mudfly Mudfly is offline
 
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Hey Mike, I built two rudders. Looking back I probably shouldn't have, but that's another story. The first rudder, I followed the plans and ended up right where you are. I think I used the blade of a wood chisel as a bucking bar. I may have even taped a tungsten bucking bar to the back of the chisel blade as close to the tip as I could to give a little more mass. This worked "ok".
I know we're geared to use the solid rivets at all cost, but if it will fit, I think I might try Turners idea of the blind rivet.

Not going to help you Mike, but for future rudder builders: Building my second rudder I waited rivet the lower rib together (using the 11 blind rivets) until I had those aft 9 rivets set (think I used a no-hole squeezer yoke). This way, I was able to separate the skins slightly and squeeze those tight rivets near the trailing edge. This worked much better.
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Old 05-23-2018, 07:30 AM
Mikeandmaz Mikeandmaz is offline
 
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Thanks for the help, Iím not sure in the UK we can go ďoff planĒ without authorisation even for small things like this. Iíve tried on the practice kit bucking one rivet against the other, my technique is obviously rubbish as the result was a disaster! So probably going down the chisel route. I canít believe the plans lead you to this situation just by following the plans. Oh well here goes.........
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Old 05-24-2018, 12:27 AM
Mikeandmaz Mikeandmaz is offline
 
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Just for information then, I shied away from the chisel method and ended up drilling out all 11 of the blind rivets together with the rivets of the Rudder Horn. This enabled me to pull back the skin to get to the rivet in question and set it with the squeezer. Job done!

Being a first time builder I seem to be getting my fare share of drilling out rivets, at least I can do something quite well!!

Thanks again for the replies.
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Old 05-24-2018, 02:06 PM
StressedOut StressedOut is offline
 
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Oh how I hated this part of the rudder! I used my squeezer and a thin nose yoke to get into this area. It still wouldn't fit, so I had to use some paint stirring sticks and small wood wedges to pry open the trailing edge a bit. Then I could get the last two rivets on each side (four total).

Since I scrapped my first rudder, I get to build another one. I'm hoping it'll be easier the second time.
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Old 05-24-2018, 06:16 PM
ralph skorupa ralph skorupa is offline
 
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Default I used a Cherry Max

These are legal AN rivet replacements in certified aircraft. Make sure the grip length is correct and I get best results with a pneumatic puller.
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Old 05-24-2018, 07:39 PM
StressedOut StressedOut is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ralph skorupa View Post
These are legal AN rivet replacements in certified aircraft. Make sure the grip length is correct and I get best results with a pneumatic puller.
I'm not sure there is a cherry max rivet that small. I think the smallest you can get them is 1/8 in. These rivets are AD3's.
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  #10  
Old 05-24-2018, 08:09 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mturnerb View Post
Any reason not to use MK-319BS?
Nope. Put a dab of proseal or JB weld in the mandrel hole and it'll look like a driven rivet when you paint it.
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