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  #11  
Old 05-21-2018, 10:31 AM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
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Bill,
I was able to adjust the hinge on the Flap enough to stop it from rubbing. I took a piece of .25" aluminum bar (roughly 8" long) and inserted in at the root of the hinge nearest to the flap where it was rubbing. It was clear that the gap in the hinge was lets than .25 as would not easily slid in-out. I used this bar to pry it open ever so slightly (about .010-.015") just enough that it could slide in and out with little to no resistance and now I am not rubbing any more. The gap is still not enough that I could say for sure it would not rub once painted but at least now it is retracting fully without rubbing.

Hope this will work for you as well.
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  #12  
Old 05-21-2018, 02:19 PM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
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Quote:
I was able to adjust the hinge on the Flap enough to stop it from rubbing. I took a piece of .25" aluminum bar (roughly 8" long) and inserted in at the root of the hinge nearest to the flap where it was rubbing. It was clear that the gap in the hinge was lets than .25 as would not easily slid in-out. I used this bar to pry it open ever so slightly (about .010-.015") just enough that it could slide in and out with little to no resistance and now I am not rubbing any more. The gap is still not enough that I could say for sure it would not rub once painted but at least now it is retracting fully without rubbing.
I did a bit of that and a little filing and got it all to fit smoothly without interference, like you, not sure if it's going to be enough to keep the paint on. I may just draw a line and have them not paint the travel area.

Flaps .. DONE!

Oh, and don't try to use -3 on the G3X to set a flap position .. it doesn't like that negative number and will go to manual mode every time. I just set 0, 10, 20, 30 and everything works great (0 being my reflex position).

Also .. for what it's worth to those of you who haven't got to this point yet .. the flap motor that Vans provides continues to run for just a split second after the it's turned off so you have to set your flap position sensor voltages high for 0 degrees and low for 30 degrees so the flaps fall into place. The incremental positions set as close as you can, they will never be perfectly on target. If the motor is running up the 20 degree stop point might end up being 19 degrees and if the motor is running down it may end up 21, etc. I tried to make this perfect until I realized that you would never notice such a small difference in flight.
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Last edited by bkervaski : 05-21-2018 at 02:44 PM.
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  #13  
Old 05-21-2018, 10:18 PM
n982sx n982sx is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkervaski View Post
Oh, and don't try to use -3 on the G3X to set a flap position .. it doesn't like that negative number and will go to manual mode every time. I just set 0, 10, 20, 30 and everything works great (0 being my reflex position).
-3 no problem on my G3x touch. I use -3, 0, 15, 30. Are you using a G3x or G3x touch?

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  #14  
Old 05-22-2018, 07:23 AM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
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Quote:
-3 no problem on my G3x touch. I use -3, 0, 15, 30. Are you using a G3x or G3x touch?
G3x Touch 4xx version 5.9 (latest as of this post) and Ray Allen POS-12 flap position sensor.

Even Garmin was stumped.

I'd love to know what your -3 and 0 voltages are set to in the calibration.

Also, and this is a question based on being a fairly new pilot, what benifit would having -3 and 0 available and why would you ever need a 0 position in flight? With such a small change, what's the benefit of having those two positions so close together available? Seems that in flight, having them so close together, you would end up choosing the wrong one all the time.
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  #15  
Old 05-22-2018, 07:42 AM
n982sx n982sx is offline
 
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I can check the values next time I'm at the airport. Same hardware and software setup as you.

I use 0 for takeoff only. I raise to -3 and shutoff the aux fuel pump at about 500 feet in the climb.
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  #16  
Old 05-22-2018, 07:43 AM
Tom Martin Tom Martin is offline
 
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When I was flying the fourteen I used three settings. All the way up, all the way down and half way down for take off and base to final turn.
When you can see three screws on the aileron the flaps are about half way down.
The flap speed is slow, I counted, in my head, to 15, and that was very close to the half flap setting of three screws visible on the end of the aileron.
Not really any need to consider the reflex position.
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  #17  
Old 05-22-2018, 08:19 AM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Martin View Post
When I was flying the fourteen I used three settings. All the way up, all the way down and half way down for take off and base to final turn.
When you can see three screws on the aileron the flaps are about half way down.
The flap speed is slow, I counted, in my head, to 15, and that was very close to the half flap setting of three screws visible on the end of the aileron.
Not really any need to consider the reflex position.
My understanding is that "all the way up" IS the reflex position - this aligns with ailerons when they align with wingtips: the "reflex" is built into the shape of the wing. Not sure what the "zero" position is used for yet - guess I'll figure it out when I start flying...
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  #18  
Old 05-22-2018, 08:23 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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The RV-14 (and RV-10) have a custom designed airfoil meant to reduce induced drag in level flight at high speed cruise. The ailerons are rigged to match the desired reflex shape of the airfoil but since the flaps are movable, they can be moved out of the reflex position. This essentially makes the wing act like it has a bit more wing area, improving climb performance slightly.

The way we fly our RV-10's and 14's is to take-off with whatever flap setting you choose (1/2 or zero), and then position them to zero for climb.
Then position them to -3 as you level off and set cruise power.
After decent and leveling off to enter the pattern, return them to zero and then use flaps as desired (within the limitations of Vfe)
In simpler terms - reflex position for cruise and decent - zero for everything else.

We have G3X (with GAD27 module) in our RV-10 and had no problem setting up the indicator for -3, 0, 15, and 30 degrees.
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  #19  
Old 05-22-2018, 09:11 AM
n982sx n982sx is offline
 
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Scott's description is what Mike Seager taught me.

I now only use 0 for takeoff and initial climb because I was consistently forgetting to raise them in cruise despite my cruise checklist. I may switch back now that I have considerably more hours in the plane.
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  #20  
Old 05-22-2018, 09:52 AM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n982sx View Post
Scott's description is what Mike Seager taught me.

I now only use 0 for takeoff and initial climb because I was consistently forgetting to raise them in cruise despite my cruise checklist. I may switch back now that I have considerably more hours in the plane.
What are the relative advantages / disadvantages (other than forgetting to raise flaps) of using take-off flaps more than "zero"? I fly from mostly paved runways over 3K feet so takeoff distance not a major concern.
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