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  #11  
Old 10-28-2015, 02:16 PM
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rvator51 rvator51 is offline
 
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Location: Peoria, AZ
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ThE plans for the RV-6a have the bolt installed the same way. A hole is cut in the firewall so you can remove the bolt in the future. A plug is installed in the hole to cover it.
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  #12  
Old 10-28-2015, 02:21 PM
guccidude1 guccidude1 is offline
 
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Location: Reno NV
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Default Condition Inspection Questions from an A&P

I have a comment about the nose gear leg and the bolt that retains it in the motor mount sleeve. Sometimes, a hole in the firewall adjacent to the bolt head is made to insert the bolt into the sleeve and leg component from the pax side of the firewall. The hole is then sealed with a snap button and RTV. You might want to double check for that snap button mod before attempting to cause hacksaw failure of that bolt in future inspections. Dan
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  #13  
Old 10-28-2015, 05:24 PM
TylerII TylerII is offline
 
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Location: Easley, SC
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Default That bolt on the nose gear leg

For a proper condition inspection the nose gear leg should be removed and the bearing surfaces cleaned and re-greased. The bolt does install up from the bottom per the plans. The bolt washer and nut should be replaced with new. The plans call out the hole in the firewall and to use a metal closure. There is obviously a torque requirement. The gear leg gets a fair amount of lateral loading which tends to wear the bolt and washer. If the bolt gets loose the gear leg can rotate in the mount causing the thru hole to elongate.

Was this your first condition inspection on an RV? There is a SB for the nose gear fork. Confirm that the SB has been accomplished

The jack points are the wing tie down points with a proper support bolt in the tie down threaded fitting. The tail will require a tie down or weight to support the nose.

Tyler
Builder N174MT, A&P
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  #14  
Old 10-28-2015, 08:14 PM
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Rick_A Rick_A is offline
 
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Location: Highland Village, TX
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Default Remove nose gear????

Quote:
Originally Posted by TylerII View Post
For a proper condition inspection the nose gear leg should be removed and the bearing surfaces cleaned and re-greased. The bolt does install up from the bottom per the plans. The bolt washer and nut should be replaced with new.

Tyler
Builder N174MT, A&P
Do you really remove your nose gear leg at every annual? Is this for just -6A's or for all A models? Yes, you need to check torque on the bolt (nut) but remove the leg just to grease the mating surface?
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  #15  
Old 10-28-2015, 08:37 PM
Champ837 Champ837 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Andalusia, AL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TylerII View Post
For a proper condition inspection the nose gear leg should be removed and the bearing surfaces cleaned and re-greased. The bolt does install up from the bottom per the plans. The bolt washer and nut should be replaced with new. The plans call out the hole in the firewall and to use a metal closure. There is obviously a torque requirement. The gear leg gets a fair amount of lateral loading which tends to wear the bolt and washer. If the bolt gets loose the gear leg can rotate in the mount causing the thru hole to elongate.

Was this your first condition inspection on an RV? There is a SB for the nose gear fork. Confirm that the SB has been accomplished

The jack points are the wing tie down points with a proper support bolt in the tie down threaded fitting. The tail will require a tie down or weight to support the nose.

Tyler
Builder N174MT, A&P
Yes, this is my first RV inspection. Since posting my observation about the gear leg bolt I've gotten a number of answers pointing me to the drawing that shows how it's done. Thanks. I'll check on the SB.
Where do I find the criteria for determining the condition of the previously mentioned nose gear bolt. There is a very slight side to side movement of the strut shaft and I can see the bolt move slightly.
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  #16  
Old 10-28-2015, 09:31 PM
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RWoodard RWoodard is offline
 
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Location: Loveland, Colorado
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I have no advice to offer re: your nose wheel inquiry, but would like to applaud your conscientious approach to conducting a thorough inspection.

A&Ps such as this gentleman do us all a favor by being willing to work with homebuilt aircraft. I have several friends who would like to own an RV, but are concerned that they won't be able to find a mechanic who's willing to work on it and/or inspect it when necessary.

Kudos sir!
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  #17  
Old 10-28-2015, 11:36 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvator51 View Post
ThE plans for the RV-6a have the bolt installed the same way. A hole is cut in the firewall so you can remove the bolt in the future. A plug is installed in the hole to cover it.
Tom is correct, but it was not always this way.
When the RV-9A was introduced in the late 90's this was a standard part of the kit and it was incorporated into the RV-6A at that time.
Any RV-6A built prior to then probably does not have the access hole in the firewall.

If the RV-9A being inspected was built per plans, it will have a hole in the firewall that would allow the bolt to pass through the firewall while removing or installing it.
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Last edited by rvbuilder2002 : 10-28-2015 at 11:53 PM.
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  #18  
Old 10-28-2015, 11:46 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Champ837 View Post
There is a very slight side to side movement of the strut shaft and I can see the bolt move slightly.
There is no published criteria, but any movement of a major structural member like a nose gear leg is not good.

If the movement is very slight, it is not necessarily a safety of flight issue at this point, but once movement is happening, it will only get worse and likely become more difficult to correct.

Sometimes it can be resolved with a new bolt (close tolerance may help if regular bolt is still loose). If that doesn't do it then a tapper pin is an option.

Doing a condition inspection on an RV should of course include researching compliance with Service Bulletins, but a loose nose gear leg warrants taking a specific look at THIS ONE.
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  #19  
Old 10-29-2015, 12:31 AM
gasman gasman is offline
 
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Location: Sonoma County
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Champ837 View Post
Where do I find the criteria for determining the condition of the previously mentioned nose gear bolt. There is a very slight side to side movement of the strut shaft and I can see the bolt move slightly.
Any movement is call for investigation. There can be no play in the socket or the bolt.

Here is how I test mine... With the nose wheel holding it's normal weight, place your finger on the top of the leg and the top of the socket. Gently create a side load by pushing on the motor to rock the nose left and right and feel for any movement. Place your finger on the bolt and repeat.

The bottom of the gear mount can be checked by thumping the gear leg just above the bend. With the faring off and the wheel clear of the ground, give the gear a good thump with your fist..... you will hear any play.

When you replace the bolt, make sure the shank extends beyond the mount wall. Measure the bolt and you will find that the bolt tapers just before the threads. That will cause play. I had to go to the next longer and added an extra washer under the head to come out just right.

My bolt is installed from the top. It was replaced without too much effort. I do not remove the leg during my annual inspection.
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  #20  
Old 10-29-2015, 05:34 AM
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Walt Walt is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TylerII View Post
For a proper condition inspection the nose gear leg should be removed and the bearing surfaces cleaned and re-greased.
Tyler
Builder N174MT, A&P
Really! Guess I haven't been doing a "proper" condition inspection all these years. Would it be safe to assume that you also remove the main gear legs for greasing?

I think it great if you elect to do that on your own aircraft every year but I've not heard of or seen any reason to perform that task on an annual basis on a typical RV.
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Last edited by Walt : 10-29-2015 at 05:45 AM.
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