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Installing SB 18-02-02

I received the SB kit today. There were no barrel clips in any of the bags and they are not listed on the parts sheet.

Also - the two K-1000 nut plates were missing as well as the 2 cotter pins.

Just for reference. I got my kit about a week ago and my clips, cotter keys and nut plates were in the bag with the LP4-3 rivets. I didn't get a parts sheet.

Jim
 
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HS stab removal process

I?m not the builder. Just thinking through the steps and early comments. Some posts indicate different kit contents, one or no clips, etc, and a couple pioneers indicate different HS removal process steps from sb steps ie; removal of HS horn cables rather than loosening cable adjusters. Perhaps the clips are not necessary and not intended if strict sb steps are followed, therefore the inconsistent amount of clips supplied - as in not really needed. Question I don?t want to hassle with the turnbuckles if the HS horn cable disconnection step in the sb is practical. Specifically, what makes one chose one way to deal with the cables or the other. I?m waiting on parts just trying to understand others comments and make best choices. Thanks! Doug in IL


They did move it!
 
Are these cracks or scratches?

I've been unable to get guidance as to whether what is shown in the following five images are cracks or scratches.

Whatever they are, they are tiny and as you can see they are super close to the rivet's manufactured head. If they are cracks, do I drill a hole so close to the rivet; and when the drill bit works through the spar web won't it then bite into the rivet's shop head, or the nutplate itself? Or should I just move on with the installation of the SB kit?

Thanks for your thoughts.

Ian Heritch
RV-12 N417E

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se5ano.jpg


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Doug, if you are asking about the stabilator control cables, I simply unbolted them, which was not too difficult. Reattaching may be a different story.

Ian
 
Magnaflux Dye Penetrant Kit Available

SOLD

Magnaflux dye penetrant kit SK-416 purchased for SB 18-02-02 for sale in the Classified forum.

Ian Heritch
RV-12, N417E
 
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Thanks Ian, what did you use to strip the paint off? Sorry for these basic questions, I didn?t build mine. Your photos below are a challenge to interpret if they are cracks or not. Can?t wait to hear what the pros respond with. Soon we hope!
 
Doug, fortunately I did not have any paint to remove as the front spar was never painted. The red residue you see in my photos is from the dye penetrant.

Ian
 
Ian, I'm certainly no expert but those marks all appear to be tooling or chip marks from a counter sink.
 
I had a really tough paint to remove. I went to Home Depot and asked for their strongest stripper to deal with polyurethane paint. Works pretty well, but you have to use several applications. On the up side I don?t worry about the effects of a gas spill on the paint anymore!😁
 
I’m not the builder. Just thinking through the steps and early comments. Some posts indicate different kit contents, one or no clips, etc, and a couple pioneers indicate different HS removal process steps from sb steps ie; removal of HS horn cables rather than loosening cable adjusters. Perhaps the clips are not necessary and not intended if strict sb steps are followed, therefore the inconsistent amount of clips supplied - as in not really needed. Question I don’t want to hassle with the turnbuckles if the HS horn cable disconnection step in the sb is practical. Specifically, what makes one chose one way to deal with the cables or the other. I’m waiting on parts just trying to understand others comments and make best choices. Thanks! Doug in IL

Doug, I dont see that you got an answer to your questions. The removal and reinstallation of the HS can be a little tricky if you havent done it before. It is pretty hard to describe in text. I would be glad to try and help you if you want to give me a call at 518-774-4898. John
 
Thank you Big John and all others willing to help non-builders keep all those fuselage placards shinny.
 
SB 18-02-02

I getting ready to do this Service Bulletin on my airplane. I didn't see any discussion about painting the parts and matching the color of the aircraft paint. My airplane is painted with Jet Glo Chrome. That paint is not available in rattle cans. I don't have a spray gun and have never tried to spray anything like an airplane.

So how did you guys paint these parts that show after the mod is done?

thanks.
 
I can only tell you what I did. Took a part from my airplane that was painted in original color to a few stores, and bought a can of the best match I could find. Painted the parts before installing them. The part of them that shows is quite small. I can see the difference, but I doubt anyone else would ever notice.
 
I did the same as BigJohn and found a rattle can paint that was close enough. Doesn't match exactly but the part is small and will not be noticed unless pointed out.
i-54S2bRG-L.jpg

You'll need to trim the opening in the fairing for the new piece. I took the trim line all the way back rather than just make a notch. If you are careful you probably don't need to touch-up paint that work.

After all the SBs, I named my 12 "Patches".
 
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A little tip: Before you remove the two fiberglass rear fairings, temporarily position the four (two upper and two lower) small reinforcement plates so that you can mark the portions of the fairings that need to be trimmed away.
 
Is this modification for older RV-12's now standard with the 2 parts added to the RV-12 iS kits during assembly?
 
Is this modification for older RV-12's now standard with the 2 parts added to the RV-12 iS kits during assembly?

Yes the gusset are the same on the original 12 and the 12iS. The part that is different are the way the upper and lower horns are mounted to the spar. It?s a totally different set up using new designed brackets that are riveted instead of bolted.
 
Misaligned holes?

First-time poster here. I have a pre-iS empennage kit and am installing this service bulletin during the build instead of retrofit. I just clecoed the HS-01231C gussets into place on the HS spar (Step #22) and found the holes in the gusset don't align well with the matching holes on the inboard hinge brackets. Both left and right brackets and top and bottom are all out of alignment similarly. See the attached photos below. Did anyone else have this problem or have any suggestions? Help would be appreciated!

Steve
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nrWDTN98qHUpPO6DN26lSgiw4CsFjGJjN4l_EkNaSsiEUzga2rw0NS4ZTm1m7LgIeOSVFQMO90e3dvowS9ubMLgDYTKypvOAY2n_OhrsnYn2YFcYZtPEvT3lhxRQ7_xwAFCCpz3UHmUuDy-_QVdllzFdhahCZV39EElPNTQqS6UUBzFfeQyLYCMztCc7SE-wXb9Oninr_VAJ6vHhltimdJS_HSul8fio5jMGM7Ftek3GAdt6hb0jHpEYxknMihNPgPcI7eZgJuC1ooajZVg8S6XGcb9iSZb0nqe-t1wzf_NLmC9MHCdDuQYQ7WeY-fGbguabryriEhRcgoqyJwYmD09ZzSDd_qY_F45WCqEZ0_wFWW4VPKed5u3NOHIuW8Mv2jVKzhHk7tmL2QN0nJ1N2yghwku3RrZjUBNZHcnEvHy0s5yZesbMdkMqPI0b8gJLbzoAaouaZ9xTmLPLsM0Yw73Fx4OcZNwC19RriMBmEtinYkFTuE1BtbLf1lhYmv0Pi47-3B3IKRdXvJCR2RxCE8wMHc3NrPxgANDA-R4LdU43fk83X5hdw-CFxHu6OFRknk0nwknqdiaYHpp_u9amyxZZJk1IryLQwiILlemTqGqoS4CrvodR0ebZlRZq-_PIG-wNrOztBE1MysqgOfYbYXcwKk2HD_0=w687-h916-no
 
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Thanks for the tip, RV9builder! I searched VAF for info but missed that thread. I didn't realize there were two versions of that gusset, but it appears I have the correct one. Looks like a call to Van's tech support is in order...

Thanks for the welcome, Mich48041! Been lurking here for over a year but just now posted.
 
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