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Old 01-07-2018, 08:34 AM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 3,287
Default Doors - How Tight?

I'm doing final adjustments on my doors and wondered what the consensus is on how how much force the doors should take to latch? Without the seals installed, should extending/retracting the pins be relatively easy, a little stiff, or...?

I think the answer is that the mechanical latch (the two pins and the center latch) should be relatively easy to engage/disengage. Mechanically, mine are smooth, but get very tight on the last 45* of engagement. It feels like I'm fighting a couple of points on the cabin flanges where I need to relieve another 1/16" or so.
Kyle Boatright
Atlanta, GA
2001 RV-6 N46KB
2019(?) RV-10
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Old 01-07-2018, 09:10 AM
Ron B. Ron B. is offline
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Yarmouth, Nova Scotia
Posts: 2,226

The seals give up a bit with time, so I started with a stiff closure and it eased up in time. this way you will have a better seal later. With that you don't want an exorbitant force needed now to close the doors, some where in between.
Thanks Ron
RV-14 Flying
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Old 01-07-2018, 09:23 AM
Strasnuts Strasnuts is offline
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 537
Default There shouldn't be a lot of force

There should be no less than 1/4 " reveal between the inner door skin and the outside edge of the fuselage flange (with the seal off) for the common McMaster 3/8 bulb seal to squish into. If it is less than 1/4 you will have a lot more force.

A thing to watch is when the angled pins begin to seat they can bind against the cam shoulder resting on the fuselage block. I had this when building mine. I relieved the cam block by cutting a half circle where the cam shoulder sits (3/4" diameter). You can also lower the cam block. The way to test this is to remove the cam block and see if there is the same force on the pins while closing.

Other parts that can cause friction is the pushrods. Make sure the exit blocks are parallel and the hole drilled in the fuse is parallel to the pushrod travel. I counterbore all the PlaneAround blocks almost all the way through until the last 1/4". I keep that at 7/16 so the pushrods don't have to be perfectly lined up. I chamfer the big hole to the smaller exit so that they wouldn't catch.

Hope this helps
A&P RV-10 Flying 950 hours
SuperSTOL Flying 100 hours
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Old 01-15-2018, 01:03 PM
Lynnb's Avatar
Lynnb Lynnb is offline
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Cedar Hill, TX
Posts: 217

Put a little grease on the pins where they go into the fuselage and work them some. Mine were really tight till a friend came by, put some grease on them and said to just work them for a bit. Sure enough they became much easier and I can only guess will loosen up a little more in time.

Just my 2 cents.
RV-10 in Process
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Old 01-15-2018, 03:33 PM
Flandy10 Flandy10 is offline
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Peachtree City, GA
Posts: 117

Another point to consider when setting them up.. Temperature.

I set mine up during a warmer part of the year. When I tried to close them this winter, the aft pin wouldn't engage even with the PlaneAround system due to lack of door flex.

Left ATL at 28F and needed push on aft edge of door to close. Next day I departed from south FLA- 58F (still cold for Floridians) but it worked as it should.

Its happened more than once.

My 2 cents.
Scott Flandermeyer
Rv-10 TDI #40816
Fayettevile, GA

2018 VAF Donation complete
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