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  #11  
Old 12-28-2017, 02:21 PM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
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Quote:
So for me who is still at chapter 38, I guess it would be a great idea to do this before attaching the engine mount or anything else on the firewall?
If you're going with the stock heating setup then yep, do it when you install the vents, it's just one part.
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Last edited by bkervaski : 12-28-2017 at 02:23 PM.
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  #12  
Old 12-28-2017, 02:40 PM
control control is online now
 
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Super, they are on the FW now but with nothing in the way
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  #13  
Old 12-28-2017, 03:33 PM
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That all makes sense and the explanation and reasoning helps, thank you.

I'll go for making the mod to the co-piolot's heat valve.
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  #14  
Old 12-28-2017, 03:46 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
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Packing blankets work well.
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  #15  
Old 12-29-2017, 07:35 AM
HHKing HHKing is offline
 
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Is FF-00084 in the firewall forward kit?
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  #16  
Old 12-29-2017, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Is FF-00084 in the firewall forward kit?
Yessir!
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  #17  
Old 12-29-2017, 09:25 AM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
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Looking at the drawing, I guess I am not quit getting the purpose of this. Looks like this step will block the outlet of the air to the engine compartment. with this plate (FF-00084) installed, how does the air exit out when the vent is closed. [Edit] Just saw Scott's comment about blocking and it make sense to me now. I am going to at lease drill it and be ready when the blocking plate shows up.

A second question, one of my vent does not close freely and I am wondering if the cable has enough strength to pull it shut. It looks like the piano hinge on the firewall needs to be shimmed to be prevent this. Has anyone else is having this issue?
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Last edited by Bavafa : 12-29-2017 at 09:36 AM.
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  #18  
Old 12-29-2017, 10:10 AM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
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Quote:
A second question, one of my vent does not close freely and I am wondering if the cable has enough strength to pull it shut. It looks like the piano hinge on the firewall needs to be shimmed to be prevent this. Has anyone else is having this issue?
I had to take some sandpaper and put it in between the wall of the vent and the door and take off a bit of material to get it to move freely. Just a little at a time, you don't want to over do it or you'll have air escaping.
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  #19  
Old 12-29-2017, 12:46 PM
KeithB KeithB is offline
 
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With respect to the heater vent doors being tight, I would recommend reviewing the following thread in the RV14 forum titled “Heater control cable tightening”:

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...eat+vent+cable

I have a Vetterman trombone (no crossover) exhaust on a Superior XP400 which made installation of 2 heat muffs easy, one feeding each heater vent. This week we flew from OH to TX with OATs of -5°F, and in spite of having no interior panels, the plane was warm and I even had to remove my coat and cut back on the vent flow.
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  #20  
Old 12-29-2017, 03:44 PM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithB View Post
With respect to the heater vent doors being tight, I would recommend reviewing the following thread in the RV14 forum titled “Heater control cable tightening”:

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...eat+vent+cable

I have a Vetterman trombone (no crossover) exhaust on a Superior XP400 which made installation of 2 heat muffs easy, one feeding each heater vent. This week we flew from OH to TX with OATs of -5°F, and in spite of having no interior panels, the plane was warm and I even had to remove my coat and cut back on the vent flow.
Keith and
Thank you both for the suggestion, I looked at that thread and prefer to have it fixed if possible rather then remedy it with a stronger push-pull cable. the vend door is not sticking but it requires a bit of force to close it completely, what it has been reported in the above thread.
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