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  #1  
Old 01-10-2018, 11:47 AM
JHartline JHartline is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Carrollton, GA 5GA2
Posts: 160
Default Which comes first, cowling or baffles?

Trying to get some work done while the temps are above freezing. I think it would be easier to fit the cowl without the baffles in place but is there reason to wait on installing them until all the cowling fitting is done?
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Carrollton, GA 5GA2
RV-14 - Finish and FWF in progress
T-Bolt IO-390
Maule MX7-180
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  #2  
Old 01-10-2018, 11:54 AM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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Baffles must fit the cowling, not vis-versa. Thus, cowling needs to happen first. You can perhaps get started on rough fitting of the baffles, but you won't know how much to cut them down until the cowl is in place.
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Old 01-10-2018, 12:11 PM
Nova RV Nova RV is offline
 
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Location: Leesburg, VA
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You can fit the baffles just don't attach the rubber seals to them and there should be enough clearance to fit the cowling. I rough fit my cowling with the baffles on (no rubber seals) and the baffles don't interfere with the fitting.
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Chris Moon

Leesburg, VA
RV-14A kit # 140243
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  #4  
Old 01-10-2018, 12:55 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Expanding a bit.....
On the RV-14 the baffles could be installed before the cowl because the baffles come trimmed to final size.

My recommendation would be that the cowl still be done first, or at least the fwd cyl baffle sections be left off while fitting the cowl to avoid the possible interference until the cowl inlets are final trimmed to match the inlet ramps.
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  #5  
Old 01-10-2018, 01:49 PM
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jeffw@sc47 jeffw@sc47 is offline
 
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Location: Simpsonville, SC (SC47)
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>> I recommend you do what Scott said.

I did install the baffles and baffle seals prior to fitting the cowling, it probably would have been a little easier if the baffle seals had not already been in place - because you install and take the cowlings off numerous times. The seals make it a little harder to fit the cowling halves as they are new and stiff.
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Simpsonville, SC (SC47)
1946 Bellanca Cruisair 14-13-2 (71 YRS OLD 8/15/17)
RV14A (N14ZT), Ser#140195
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Last edited by jeffw@sc47 : 01-11-2018 at 08:39 AM.
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  #6  
Old 01-11-2018, 08:27 AM
JHartline JHartline is offline
 
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Location: Carrollton, GA 5GA2
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Yep...I always do what Scott says

Getting at least the rear baffles on will help me start tidying things up around the motor. Thanks for for the insight.
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