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  #11  
Old 12-19-2017, 07:43 AM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
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Quote:
yes, I was using a cage but obviously screwed something up.... I have an email into VANS. I cant quite tell from reading ahead why the instructions call for countersinking here (page 8-2, step 5), but hopefully it wasn't a $75 mistake! Thanks for the replies.
One thing I found with the cage that I have is that if the retaining ring comes loose, even though it's not jumping teeth, it will cut considerably deeper. Now I make sure every few times to check that ring and make sure it hasn't come loose.
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  #12  
Old 12-19-2017, 08:01 AM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkervaski View Post
One thing I found with the cage that I have is that if the retaining ring comes loose, even though it's not jumping teeth, it will cut considerably deeper. Now I make sure every few times to check that ring and make sure it hasn't come loose.
I put gaffer's tape on the ring.....
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  #13  
Old 12-19-2017, 08:10 AM
greghughespdx greghughespdx is offline
 
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Location: Aurora, OR
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I'd replace it.

1. It's just too deep.
2. Every time I buy a new part (and I have bought several) the resulting pain I experience makes me that much more careful the next time around and on future parts. So I consider it an investment of sorts, hah.
3. Souvenir and a good tool to use in the future to show people what not to do!
4. Scrap for other purposes like testing your countersink cage, drilling holes, etc. etc.
5. We don't have to pay shipping.

greg
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  #14  
Old 12-19-2017, 08:14 AM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
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Quote:
We don't have to pay shipping.
Nice!

Won't be the last part you replace, that's for sure, just part of it. And the re-orders get less frequent as your skills improve.
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  #15  
Old 12-19-2017, 05:01 PM
Eztroller Eztroller is offline
 
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Location: West Linn,Or
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My wallet is $45 pounds ligter, and the rivets are countersunk correctly. Thanks for the advice.
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  #16  
Old 12-19-2017, 07:55 PM
rapid_ascent rapid_ascent is offline
 
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Location: Dublin, CA
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I've ordered a "few" replacement parts. I was like you in the beginning but now I don't think twice. It's part of the process. You make mistakes you fix them and move on. Hopefully you become more careful and read the plan details more and you will make less mistakes. Most of the parts are actually pretty cheap to replace.
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  #17  
Old 12-19-2017, 09:16 PM
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You may be able to salvage this by putting new rivets/holes on either side of the enlarged hole. Van's might be the best authority here to determine the feasibility of this approach.
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  #18  
Old 12-20-2017, 07:08 AM
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edsong edsong is offline
 
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Default countersink cages

Spend $30 on an extra one. Set one for #30 and one for #40 and no more testing.

Eddy
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  #19  
Old 12-20-2017, 12:17 PM
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Flyin'Bryan Flyin'Bryan is offline
 
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Default Ditto, and one further....

Quote:
Originally Posted by edsong View Post
Spend $30 on an extra one. Set one for #30 and one for #40 and no more testing.
I did that very thing as well, but now I want to go even further and get yet another one or two more, because I repeatedly need a #40 stop that is set to "flush" and another one that is set to Vans recommended .007 deeper for dimple-to-counter-sink situations for skins and such. Call me lazy, but that would keep me from mis-adjusting the tool to .006 or .008 or worse, if I had two #40 countersinks, with each one set to the proper depths for either condition.

But then I would probably need to remember which stop contains which depth, and then which gun has which stop in it, and so on. As long as you label the stops properly, it might not be confusing, but I am old, so there are no guarantees!
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  #20  
Old 12-20-2017, 01:49 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Default Countersink cage

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyin'Bryan View Post
I did that very thing as well, but now I want to go even further and get yet another one or two more, because I repeatedly need a #40 stop that is set to "flush" and another one that is set to Vans recommended .007 deeper for dimple-to-counter-sink situations for skins and such. Call me lazy, but that would keep me from mis-adjusting the tool to .006 or .008 or worse, if I had two #40 countersinks, with each one set to the proper depths for either condition.

But then I would probably need to remember which stop contains which depth, and then which gun has which stop in it, and so on. As long as you label the stops properly, it might not be confusing, but I am old, so there are no guarantees!
Buy as many as you like but never trust the setting. Always test before use.
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