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  #1  
Old 01-02-2010, 08:42 PM
zx6rrider zx6rrider is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: fredericksburg Va
Posts: 27
Default Alodine, still need to primer?

Just trying to figure out which way to go here. Im 24 and recently picked up an abandoned tail kit. I was thinking about etching/alodining everything. The alodine is supposed to protect from corrsion so is there any real point to priming anything that wont be out in the weather? Would like to keep it as light as possible so thought the lack of primer may save a pound or two plus some time and money. If I were to lose my medical around 70 and die flying around 90, thats 66 years Id like to see the thing last (OK maybe I'm a little optimistic), do you think the alodine alone would be enough? Going to try and get my hands on some powder so it will be affordable. Looking at the Iridite 14-2, does it matter what I use to etch with, I thought most alodines were an etch/alodine system but I havnt seen what is recommended with the Iridite. Thanks for your advise.
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  #2  
Old 01-02-2010, 10:05 PM
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GAHco GAHco is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Paso Robles, CA
Posts: 1,177
Post With each step, corrosion resistance is a little better!

The first step is Cleaning the aluminum thoroughly, the next step is a thorough rinse with clean clear water as mineral free as possible.

The second is air drying and not re-contaminating.

The third could be either a) Alodine, or b) Wash Primer.

If you chose a) Alodine, it is better than nothing but should at least get a coat of primer on it for the interior. If exterior use a top coat too .

If you chose b) Wash Primer, (I use US Paints/Azko Nobel) then for interior structure all you have to do is put the wash primer on.

If you chose b) Wash Primer, and are doing a top coat, you will need to epoxy prime, and then add the top coat.

PPG, Azko Nobel, and Sherwin Williams all offer comparable processes.
Some are easier than others but all of these and maybe more have proven results when ALL the directions (process's) are followed.

Research, and ask around what other experiences are, and always remember, painting a whole airplane inside and out is a large and tedious task, it can also be rewarding. Best wishes,
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  #3  
Old 01-03-2010, 06:37 AM
zx6rrider zx6rrider is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: fredericksburg Va
Posts: 27
Default

Thanks for the info, looks like its time for some more research.
And thanks for the hardware book, looks like that will be a great tool along the way
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  #4  
Old 01-03-2010, 08:35 AM
chaskuss chaskuss is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: SE Florida
Posts: 1,270
Default Archives

Chad,
I would strongly advise you to use the SEARCH function on the forum. Simply enter the word Alodine into the search box. You will find tons of info in the archives. The SEARCH button is found on the blue bar at the top of this page.
Charlie Kuss
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  #5  
Old 01-03-2010, 09:39 AM
Jim Percy Jim Percy is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 178
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FWIW, I used brush-on or dip alumiprep and alodine for all of the non-alclad parts, and did not use primer on top. I figured this gave at least as much protection as the wash primer used by the quick-build factory. No sign of corrosion yet, but I've only been flying for ~3 years. Time will tell.
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  #6  
Old 01-03-2010, 10:03 AM
terrykohler terrykohler is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 967
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When I started my build in early '02, I set up a corrosion test/comparison of bare aluminum (wrought angle),non-alclad sheet, and alclad sheet.
Samples were tested bare, as well as with alodine conversion, and finally with alodine +zinc chromate.
Testing was carried out in a salt spray cabinet according to ASTM B117
As a result of this testing, I decided to:
1. Alodine and coat all wrought product (you may wish to use something other than zinc chromate)
2. alodine non-alclad sheet (ribs, for example)
3. Paint contact surfaces (for example, between rib flanges and wing skin).
My best guess is that the structure should be good for 100+ years. Just a SWAG based on my own testing.
Terry
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