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Old 05-16-2019, 07:37 AM
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Hartstoc Hartstoc is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Sebastopol,CA
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Originally Posted by rocketbob View Post
Its been my experience that stick on weights will fall off if you operate off rough grass. I've contemplating making a ring which would attach to the three bolts holding the halves together such that the weights could be just a stack of washers bolted thru holes inside the ring which would be inside the brake disc. When running 380 tires (or normal 500x5 tires) often I found them very out of round brand-new and they would take a lot of weight to balance.

When Alan does the bearing mod (which is a great mod BTW) I believe he machines a spacer between the halves which sets the bearing preload so that one can run the nut up tight. This should improve resistance to shimmy because the asymmetric binding that occurs with any looseness in the bearing preloads is solved by having a spacer in between the bearings.
Bob- There is a precision spacer separating the inner bearing races on the nose wheel mod such that you can torque down the axel nuts with impunity, making for a much more rigid fork assembly. Not so with the mains. True, the bearings are sealed units that do not have the tapered races and rollers that you have to be SO careful to position with just the right amount of play before inserting the cotter pins, but you do have to install the modified main wheels without side pressure binding on the bearings, so you still need the cotter pins.- Otis
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Otis Holt-
RV-7A (bought)
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RV-8A, S-7C, Europa, Glastar.
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