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  #41  
Old 02-15-2017, 08:06 AM
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ERushing ERushing is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Underwood, WA
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Good Morning,

Ed was using one of the last full rudder pedal kits that Paul used to make (and doesn't anymore.) I believe the Aerosport trim kit should work just fine with Paul's new rudder pedal retrofit system. You're still using Van's rudder pedal frame, correct?

I also bought Paul's rudder pedal retro kit. I just haven't gotten around to installing it yet!

Before installing any insulation on the firewall, please read DanH's extensive research on the subject. I am planning to insulate on the engine side & leave the firewall interior bare. In the case of an engine compartment fire, there's a significant concern that anything on the cabin side of the firewall will burn, smoke, outgas, etc turning an already bad situation even worse.
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  #42  
Old 02-15-2017, 08:20 AM
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rmartingt rmartingt is offline
 
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Location: Savannah, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bnovak1220 View Post
Last: quote from Dennis "Sound proofing on the interior firewall before installing the brakes and instrument panel." What did you guys use for this? Fire proof? did you install it now at the point I'm at? - working on brake lines

Thanks in Advance!
I suggest reading a few of these threads before insulating the cabin side of your firewall:
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=44187
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=47587
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...d.php?t=112905
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=72087

Look for DanH's burn tests...

edit: looks like I got beaten to the punch
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  #43  
Old 02-15-2017, 10:07 AM
bnovak1220 bnovak1220 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Lynchburg, VA
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Wow! Thanks Eric and Bob - that completely changes my direction for the interior soundproofing / insulation of the firewall. Dan has really done our homework for us
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  #44  
Old 02-15-2017, 06:00 PM
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NovaBandit NovaBandit is offline
 
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Location: Hastings, MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERushing View Post
Good Morning,

Ed was using one of the last full rudder pedal kits that Paul used to make (and doesn't anymore.) I believe the Aerosport trim kit should work just fine with Paul's new rudder pedal retrofit system. You're still using Van's rudder pedal frame, correct?
The LAST one!

I really like mine, but the extra work caused be relocating the rudder cable attachment into the tunnel, the fact the I couldn't use the Aerosport rudder trim, and the lower price of the retrofit kit would have led me to choose the current kit over the one I have.

You should be good to go with this setup (including the Aerosport trim system).
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RV-10 N829EC - Flying
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  #45  
Old 02-15-2017, 07:27 PM
bnovak1220 bnovak1220 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Lynchburg, VA
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Thanks Ed!
Great web site btw, it is my go to site for this build. Really nice to see your pics before I start working on a section....so pls don't take it down till I'm done

On these pedals do you know if they help when taxing , compared to the stock pedals. I've read numerous post about how the stock pedals can causing you to ride the brakes. Just curious if for the money Paul's pedals actually provide functionality along with aesthetics

Here is one thread where they discuss this
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...=Rudder+pedals
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  #46  
Old 02-15-2017, 07:49 PM
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Dbro172 Dbro172 is offline
 
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All you need is a pair of these. http://www.jdair.com/rudder-pedal-ex...-7-rv-9-rv-10/

Actually, if you start riding your feet on the outboard edge of the stock pedal and move your feet inward to break rather than forward, it's pretty comfortable and functional as well.
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  #47  
Old 02-15-2017, 08:18 PM
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Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbro172 View Post
Actually, if you start riding your feet on the outboard edge of the stock pedal and move your feet inward to break rather than forward, it's pretty comfortable and functional as well.
Exactly how I've been flying my 6A for 19 years. Wears the paint off the rudder pedal side tubes and leaves a nice patina I like the extension idea, and I like these better for the $ than the $795 unobtanium ones.
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  #48  
Old 02-15-2017, 08:39 PM
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Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cbull View Post

- I made my own overhead console, learned a ton about fiberglass
- I made my own headliner fiberglass panels
- made rear window closeout trims, covered in pleather
Cory, can you share how you did this work? Pics anywhere?
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RV-6A - N30YD - flying since '98
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

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  #49  
Old 02-22-2017, 08:16 AM
Wayne Gillispie Wayne Gillispie is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERushing View Post
Before installing any insulation on the firewall, please read DanH's extensive research on the subject. I am planning to insulate on the engine side & leave the firewall interior bare. In the case of an engine compartment fire, there's a significant concern that anything on the cabin side of the firewall will burn, smoke, outgas, etc turning an already bad situation even worse.
I installed an adjustable Supco temp limit switch ($15) that is normally used on gas or electric furnaces in my line of work. It senses cowl outlet temperature and will warn you as soon as a fire starts. I have mine set at 230 F. I originally had it set lower (220 F), but at 16,500', near gross wt/aft cg, my LED on the panel illuminated due to less dense air and 6 deg angle of incidence.

If you have an engine fire, it is not the SS firewall you need to be worried as much about. That .040" bottom tunnel skin burns through then your fuel and brake lines melt, causing a nice cabin fire. You will be popping the door for fresh air whether you have "cabin-side" or "engine-side" fw insulation or not. Early detection is what was important to me. In addition to the temp switch, ensure your fuel flow warning is set to 26-26.5 gph.

Mostly built per plans except for the above, McMaster Carr door seals, Aux 680 battery in back, and I use a small balsa stick for cruise rudder trim ($1). Yes, the std fuel selector still works just fine, I have a spare with fittings ready to go if needed and still 1/3 the cost. Fine wire plugs get me smooth running at 40 deg LOP vs massives. 10.5 gph, 160 ktas.

Things I don't like...Main gear occassionally shaking like a wet dog. Cheap out-of-round (1/4-5/16") factory tires. No tire valve access doors. Not enough heat up high in the back. Painted interior is noisy without ANR's at full power (but lighter and easier to maintain). Lower cowling difficult to get on/off with rubber seals at ramps, hinges and nose gear fairing. Brakes are very marginally sized at gross wt, so must be at 68-70 kts and touch down on the numbers for 2000' or less runways to leave some extra margin.

Overall, for the price, it is a great family plane. Starting our 6th yr flying.
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  #50  
Old 02-22-2017, 08:30 AM
Wayne Gillispie Wayne Gillispie is offline
 
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Oh, almost forgot. I really like Strasnuts' safety door latch mod and the factory magnetic switches/my LED'S. Doors never left unlatched yet.
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