What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Priming in Australia

TASEsq

Well Known Member
Patron
In the preliminary stages and planning before an emp order, and had a question on priming.

Without getting into a big debate, I think i understand the pros and cons to priming, and from reading a million posts it seems some form of prep is in order (alumiprep alone, alumiprep / alodine, prekote) followed by a primer.

All these products are easily found in Australia (www.aeroparts.com.au). I think prekote sounds like the best option as it is very safe and easily washed away.

Seems the akzo 463 primer is popular, and bulletproof (and likely the best choice), BUT:
1. Where the heck do you buy that in Australia (a moderately dedicated search came up with nothing)
2. The health problems and cleanup problems may be hard to justify in my garage with a 3 year old running around.
3. Shipping from the US would be $$$ due HAZMAT

So, that leaves the stewart systems primer?
1. I assume shipping is not too bad as it is not volatile and likely not DG?
2. Not certain on the compatibiity with other paints though. Their website isn't very clear on this.
3. Is it as bulletproof as akzo?

In summary, if people have chosen to prime and they are in AUS, what systems did you choose and can you give a quick summary of your process / what suppliers you used (hopefully local).

Thanks again I advance. Appreciate any help.
 
Take a look at PPG Spectracron Wash Primer, two part QAP701 and QAP702, (Sherwin Williams has a similar - don't know its label). The PPG is usually a special order if you have a PPG store that is primarily house and commercial paint, the Spectracron is considered an Industrial coating.

It is an self etching primer. Dries quickly and is quite durable. And, not as heavy as the Akzo and not as much work to use. I mixed it 1 part primer : 1.5 part accelerator. They call for 1:1 but the thinner mix seems to work better. You put it on lighter than you think that it needs to be, best to go light and evaluate than to get it on too heavy; you can always lay down more.

The PPG color, a sort of light brown'ish OD green, looks like you have washed parts with alodine.

The Sherwin Williams brand is what Van's has used on the QB build kits done in the Philippines. The QB Fuselage I received was done with a clear version of the primer.

In priming all of the empennage parts, wing parts (all but the inside surfaces of the skins), the Fuselage was QB but still did all of the interior panels that were not primed - I went through about 2.5 gal of the primer and 4 gal of the accelerator.
 
Last edited:
Not sure where you are in Australia, but I've used Stuart Systems Ekopoxy and have had good results. The only problem is that because it is water borne, you want to have temperatures above about 18degC to use it effectively (they state 20degC, but you can go a little lower). I used it in Tasmania, so I found that I would edge finish a prime a big batch of sheets during the summer, then use rattle can zinc phosphate etch primer during the winter on the smaller components. I have found during my experimenting that the Wattyl Superetch it the best etch primer you can get in Aus, and comes in rattle cans or bulk. I have tried many etch primers and found this to be the most durable. Regarding topcoating the Ekopoxy, you can top coat with any polyurethane. If you use Wattyl Colorthane PU, wattyl recommend cleaning with automotive wax and grease remover, etching lightly with maroon scotchbrite (Septone is what Wattyl normally sell) then a light coat of etch over your ecopoxy to enhance the bond, and finally topcoating with the PU after the etch has had an hour or so to cure (wet on wet technique). Of course none of this is a problem if you are in a warmer location and you can use the Ekopoxy all year round.
Tom.
 
TASEsq,

I can't answer all your questions, but I'll can tell you a little bit about my experiences with the Stewart Systems product. I'm using Their Ecopoxy on the inside of my -14.

Although I have no personal experience with Akzo, based on what I've read, my opinion is that Ecopoxy is not as robust as Akzo. That being said, I'm not sure it has to be as I'm using it on the inside for corrosion protection. With that in mind, I'm not concerned about the compatibility under other paints as I'm not planning more than one coat for corrosion protection. Don't get me wrong, Ecopoxy is extremely durable. In fact, I've had absolutely no problems dimpling after it's sprayed. Below is my list of pros and cons.

Pros-

  • Almost no fumes
  • Environmentally friendly - I have to dispose of this stuff and didn't want any issues.
  • Covers well
  • Dries very quickly
  • Easy to apply
  • Waterborne not water based (big difference) - Uses distilled water to reduce!
  • Extremely durable - if you scratch this stuff you've accomplished something
  • Easy clean up - water and/or acetone
  • Doesn't have to slake for 30 minutes

Cons -

  • Difficult to mix - has the consistency of cookie dough or perhaps homemade ice cream coming out of the can.
  • It's thick enough that there's a small loss off product due to sticking to the mixing stick or mixer.
  • Won't stand up to certain chemicals very well (acetone) - I don't plan on flying though acetone though
  • Expensive - what good product isn't?

Process -
  • Scuff with maroon Scotchbrite, Bon Ami, and water on surface. Rinse well with water and dry.
  • After dry, wipe down with denatured alcohol. (acetone leaves a film).
  • Spray within two hours of starting process
  • I'm using 3M PPS (part number 16580) can't say enough good about the 3M system.
  • Dries to touch fast enough that by the time the gun is clean (5 mins) parts can be handled/moved.

Suggestions-

Ecopoxy is extremely difficult to mix. It's so thick that some of the product may be lost over the side of the can when mixing.
Solution: I purchased a couple of new 1 gallon cans from a local paint store ($4 each U.S.), mixed the original batch extremely well one time (took an hour), then split the batch into the two cans from the paint store. Now I can mix without waste and takes me roughly 1- 2 minutes. The key to getting a nice even coat is to put down a "dust coat" first.

For me, the ease of use,disposal, and not having to worry about high VOC content is worth the initial hassle of mixing. Although probably not as tough as akzo, I don't see that as an issue as long as it protects and doesn't scratch easily.

Best of Luck,

Fred
 
Wattyl Super-Etch primer is popular down here (either spray cans or gun). Scuff thoroughly with maroon Scotchbrite, clean in mild detergent, thoroughly rinse off and/or clean with acetone, and then spray the primer.
 
Thanks

Thanks gents for the replies,

It sounds like the stewart systems wouldn't be too bad - I've used some waterbased 2 part epoxy on models before and I do recall that it was always tough to mix - like the solids fall too easily out of the solution. Splitting it into 2 cans is a good idea. I like the idea that there is no fumes and cleanup is easy - I suppose just a normal respirator or dust mask would be ok.

What about the "internals" that are actually external? Like the backs of the vertical stab etc. I would be worried about fuel etc affecting the paint in these areas, or even for the final paint job not being compatible?

The Wattyl product is interesting though - it would be waaaay smarter to use something I can get locally - not having to wait to get something from the us when I run out would be great. And I really like the idea of having the same paint available in 4lt to run through the gun (for big batches) but to also have the same paint in an aerosol for small batches. The cons of course are the fumes and cleanup. The thinner MSDS says the thinner is toluene and acetone - so sounds like acetone would be needed to clean the gun. That's a lot of runs through the gun of acetone to get rid of!

How do you get rid of chemicals like that? Are fumes an issue at all? (I'll be painting in my shed which is only about 5m from the house).

Since this primer "self etching" does that mean I don't need to use something like Prekote or Alumiprep to remove the oxides on the parts? Just need to clean off any oils etc?
 
Not in Australia, so no info on specific question, but did want to offer my 2 cents about primers.

I used the Sherwin Williams P60G2 Industrial Wash Primer that Van's uses in their QB options. It's very tough and I find it VERY EASY use.

The thing I like most is that it's "self etching". No need to scuff each part or prep with anything. Simply wash with acetone and apply. GREATLY reduces the workload.

Having to scuff up every part in a build can get pretty old. Priming itself will add time to the build, so using a primer that reduces number of steps for adequate protection was my main consideration.

Good luck in your build!!!!
 
G'day Trent,

I went through lots of heartache and confusion researching how to do this priming thing - makes your brain hurt after a while. Anyway, this is what I ended up doing.

Started by scuffing the aluminium with maroon scotchbrite then cleaned with dishwashing detergent (yep, the old Palmolive) in a nice soapy mix once again using the scotchbrite then rinsed off and dried and cleaned with sikkens M600 http://www.sikkensnamobile.com/Products/Details/68?searchPhrase=&categoryId=8 Next step was prime with Protec 426 Etch Pro. This is available in spray can or 4 litre tin https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=etHrE0NFBiI

If you have a look at my website under horizontal stabiliser (scroll down quite a way) you'll see a pic of the etch pro spray can and a brief description of my priming process.

Both the sikkens and the etch pro are readily available here in Canberra (from auto paints supplier) so you shouldn't have any probs in Melbourne.

The other thing I did was prime two small coupons. One hangs inside the shed and the other hangs outside exposed to the weather. It's been there for a couple of years now and still in good shape.

Good luck with your research.

Cheers,

Warbo
 
The Akzo product is made to a Boeing Long Beach (nee McDonnell Douglas) specification.

Boeing Long Beach Specification: DMS 1786, Ty I, Comp A

You could try calling some Oz professional large jet outfits and see where they buy it. Someone must fix MD-80's down there.
 
If you have a look at my website under horizontal stabiliser (scroll down quite a way) you'll see a pic of the etch pro spray can and a brief description of my priming process.

Thanks. I wondered about those "car shop" type primers. Seems almost any etch primer will do! Some of your parts had the golden hue on the HS - did you alodine as well?

I like the idea of a brief spray along the rivet lines so the undersides of the rivets are primed. They are alclad anyway but that tiny bit of primer adds no weight and surely can't hurt.

Thanks for all the replies guys.

I'm going to order the practice airfoil kit from vans and I want to treat it like the real think - including having a go at priming. Might hold it and make aeroplane sounds when I'm done.
 
One further query re those who have used the Wattyl Super etch and/or the Protec - does this stand up to dumpling after priming?

It seemed to me that I probably would find it easier to dimple after priming if I were to go the pre-kote method of scuffing and cleaning.

However, if you don't have to scuff etc as it is "self etching" then I guess I can dimple before priming?

Not sure where you are in Australia, but I've used Stuart Systems Ekopoxy and have had good results.
Tom - did you buy this out of the US? Or from Skyshop?
 
Last edited:
I've been using the Wattle product and scuff the dimple lines prior to dimpling then scuff the lot prior to painting. Where I've missed the odd dimple it seems to stand up to dimpling after but not my preferred method. The self etching properties, quick drying, availability and ease of use make it an attractive product.
 
I have recently primed my RV14, and got great results, would certainly do it this way again.

I bought the same stuff Boeing use on their jets (light green colour) BMS10-11 from PPG in Victoria.

Then Alumiprep, Alodine, Prime. And as Vans say the Aeroplane will be good for the grandkids.

The Alumiprep and Alodine is done using baths, so eliminates the mechanical etching with scotchbrite.

The BMS10-11 is very tough, and easy to apply, however all the safety precautions need to be taken as what's good for aeroplanes is not good for humans.

Rgs Chad
 
I too have found that the superetch holds up perfectly well to dimpling, better in fact than the Stewart Systems does. I generally like to give it overnight at least to fully cure before I dimple.
If you are doing large batch numbers and are close to other houses/people, then Stewart Systems is your best option. For small batches (small bits of angle, etc) the Wattyl rattle can should be fine, as there's not nearly as much mist/overspray with the rattle can.
Regarding the mixing of any paint, I have given up mechanically mixing it (i.e. I do not use a stirring stick/mechanical stirrer any more). This came about because I thought I had a contamination issue from my stirrer, so instead I shook the paint tin instead, thinking that I would have all kinds of secondary issues from air bubbles. There was absolutely no problem, so can shaking is now my default mixing method. The only problem with the Ekopoxy is that it does settle to the extent where is can be very hard to shake, so if you don't shake it now and again whether you are using it or not, it will settle to the point that you will need a mechanical stirrer. I have also found that once Ekopoxy has passed it's shelf life it may still not mix properly. I had a batch of Part A that was 18 months old that just wouldn't mix, so I had to ditch it. I have not had this issue with etch primers, and have used ones more than 10 years old. If you are shooting Ekopoxy, then I have found that you can successfully shoot it with a touchup gun, so long as you increase the thinner rate (distilled water) by about 50%. This will let you use a smaller 0.8mm gun (rather than the specified 1.3mm gun) which will make priming smaller components far easier with less overspray. The same can apply to etch primers. I generally run 40% thinner in the Superetch rather than 30% specified max and this lets me shoot it through the smaller gun. Finally, cooling and trapping moisture out of your water is key, or you will get fish-eyes in your primer (sometimes confused for silicone contamination). Air will come out of the compressor hot, carrying moisture in vapor form. In vapor form, it will pass through water traps. It needs to condense, kind of like happens when air passes over a mountain, cools and then rains. If this air has not condensed, the water traps can not capture it. I had been chasing what I thought was a silicone contamination problem for ages, but it turns out that the moisture would pass straight through the trap at my compressor, and even the trap just before the gun was inadequate to prevent fisheyes. The solution was running the air through 8ft of copper pipe in a 200L drum filled with cold water, then into a good quality water trap. The air then warms back to room temperature in your air line at which point it is super dry as it has dumped all its moisture. It is amazingly effective, and I wish I had created this cooling/drying system at the start. On one day large day of painting recently (I am currently painting the exterior), I had been running the compressor all day, and it heated up the water to the point where I was getting fisheyes again, so I tipped the drum of water out and re-filled it with cold river water and bingo, all the fisheyes were gone. I think If I were to do it again, I would increase the copper pipe length (perhaps double) in the drum so the water doesn't have to be as cold to force the moisture out of vapor form.
For the fiberglass components I have found the Wattyl UC230 high build primer a good solution in Aus. I generally lay down a couple of medium coats or more (you are sanding the majority of it off once cured). You will have pin-holes to fill, so I generally put my leftover UC230 in the freezer to stop it curing, then go back and fill those pin holes about two hours after I have laid the UC230 down. The filling is just done with a popsicle stick , working it into each pin hole, but lightly enough so that you don't damage the soft UC230 you have laid down as it will not yet be fully cured. This will enable you to have a chemical bond between the pinhole filling the the primary coat, rather than leaving the pin hole filling to the next day when you will miss the opportunity to have a chemical bond. It will look ugly as ---- afterwards, but this will sand off, and the UC230 sands super well. I generally allow 2 days curing in Tassie before sanding, but if you are in a warmer climate 1 day may be ok. The Superetch can be applied over UC230, but UC230 can not be applied over superetch as it will dissolve it.
I hope this helps.
Tom.
 
Thanks for the replies. Sorry for so many questions!

@andrew - what is the difference between the EAP-9/12 and the alumiprep? Does the EAP-9/12 not etch the surface to paint? I watched their video and it seems a very long winded process (induction time, spraying, dabbing off excess etc). How did you get around the mixing when doing small parts (the activator is in a pretty small bottle and seems hard to weight out accurately).

@tom that's very interesting re your water bath. Was your compressor working hard during your spraying? The compressor I've got has never had an issue with water vapour when I've painted other things (models, kitchen cupboards!). But then it only ran around every 3-4 mins maybe for 30 seconds to bring the pressure back up? Good idea though to run time metal lines with a drain at a low point in the shop. Setting up the permanent air lines is on my list.


Do you guys find you had much contamination of oil since you were using air tools and a sprayer on the same compressor? Or did you run a seperate line from the compressor for painting? (I was thinking of a split right out of the compressor - one way into the walls for the shop air (tools) and the other off the compressor for painting only).

Thanks again. This really is invaluable - the choice of primer is a hard one being here in Aus - if only we could just order from spruce and 3 days later it was here.
 
Last edited:
Regarding your earlier post, I brought my paint in directly from the US when I shipped my kit over, but I understand it can be shipped air as it is not classified as hazmat. That said, I imagine air shipping is not cheap, so it may pay to get it locally. As I said before, it has a shelf life, so only get what you need (1 gal did virtually all my airframe interior priming).
With respect to the cooling drum, a picture may be found below. My compressor is a twin cylinder 2.2hp unit (9 amp at 240V), and it's enough to run my 1.3mm SprayIt 33500 LVLP gun, but the compressor is working the majority of the time. If you are doing all the prep work (including blowing down with air) priming and finally top coat in the same day, you are dumping a lot of heat into this water. Things wouldn't be so bad if I had metal pipes in my hangar, however my hangar is only borrowed temporarily, so my air lines are just synthetic rubber, which don't dissipate heat nearly as well as the metal lines, so the moisture stays in vapor form. The beauty about filling cooling tank with river water is that it's straight off the mountains so it is super cold and forces all the moisture from vapor to liquid form allowing the water trap to do it's job because I am cooling BELOW ambient temperatures. On a big spray day now, I will just leave the tap slowly running replacing the water in the drum as I go.
Regarding the spray gun I have been using, I'm really stoked with how they have been working. I purchased the two gun kit from amazon, and they really do work well at the lower operating pressures. I was told by professional painters here that there would be no way I could paint with such a small compressor, however it has been fine with these guns.
https://www.amazon.com/SPRAYIT-SP-3...qid=1505017444&sr=1-3&keywords=LVLP+spray+gun
I have been using the 600ml collapsible paint cup system from GPI which is almost identical to the 3M PPS system. If you are painting etch, you can just leave the unused portion in the cup and cap it, then just wash the gun out. For the internal priming it is not so necessary, but for the external application, it is key. It saves a whole lot of cleaning up and I suspect has paid for itself in saved thinners. It makes shooting the belly of the aircraft a breeze. Also, be sure to get yourself a 360 degree swivel air fitting so you can keep the hose out of the way. Whilst your at it, you should probably get yourself a US mail box. A couple of us down here use www.myus.com. It cost $7/mo by you will save yourself a boatload in shipping costs (I get my Spruce orders sent there and consolidate them with other items I am shipping), plus it lets you get items from Amazon that you couldn't normally access in Aus. Never get things shipped anything faster than the most economical speed, as there's always some more parts to edge finish in the meantime.
If priming really is a big deal because you live the city, then I would strongly consider not priming. Often when I speak with builders, the one thing many of them say is that they would not prime everything if they were to do things over again. It's a huge time commitment. If I lived in the city, I would strongly consider just fay sealing/wet riveting my components. I fay sealed all the lower skins in the fuselage (up to the longeron) with Sikaflex Pro as it has a super long working time. The vast majority of corrosion I have witnessed on aircraft is between faying surfaces, and thus I think if I was to do things again, I'd just run a bead of sealant and wet rivet all the joints. I used a polyurethane, which is pretty toxic, but I am trying to find a modified silicone (MS) sealant that has a long working time as a substitute in the future (perhaps for the next project...). The MS sealants are paintable (unlike silicone, which you want to steer clear of except for the high temperature application on the firewall) and their vapor is way less toxic than traditional polyurethane sealants. You would then have to only prime the angle components (the non alclad parts) which you can do with the Superetch cans. The downside of the wet riveting is it is more difficult, and once you get started, you've got to keep going, so you really need to plan well. I find the 100% cleco, semi cure, then rivet technique that many use on the tanks doesn't seem to work so well elsewhere, as it still leaves quite a bit of sealant in the joint compared to riveting. Also, get yourself a small chest freezer in your shop, or somewhere you can keep these sealants. Once you have used them , plug the ends and throw them straight in the freezer. A builder here told me that they can get up to two weeks use out of a sikaflex pro tube before it starts curing in the tube. I put my in the freezer after every use, and got more than 6 months, as these are moisture curing and if the moisture is frozen, then no reaction occurs. Anyway, just food for thought.
2gwhzxg.jpg
 
I spent a fair while deciding what to use. Eventually went with:

1. PreKote - apply with maroon Scotch-Brite, rinse off with water, apply PreKote again, rinse off again, check that water sheets off (if not, another PreKote cycle)

2. Akzo Nobel 10P4-3NF epoxy primer, applied with a LVLP spray gun and 1.3 tip. Part A settles in the tin, and needs a lot of mixing. It turned out to be almost idiot proof, and even areas that look terrible during application mostly dry to a good coating. It seems pretty durable, since I've been dimpling after priming without causing problems. I got the 10P4-3NF primer from Seairland in Brisbane, and they shipped it to their Sydney agent for pickup. The contact there was Glen McKenzie ([email protected]). It wasn't cheap, but nor were any of the other primers I looked at.

I've also used Tempo etch primer on a couple of fiddly bits. It works well, but is very slow to cure.

Hope this helps
Dan
 
System I am using in Melbourne

Hi Trent,
I am using the PPG system without alodining.

I clean with acetone, scuff with maroon scothbrite, then clean with acetone again. I apply EAP9 by wiping on with cheesecloth. When this dries, I shoot CA7700 primer, single light coat.
This process has delivered a tough coating that adheres well to the aluminium.

If you are in Melbourne, feel free to drop around to see the result.

Cheers,

Joe
 
I apply EAP9 by wiping on with cheesecloth. When this dries, I shoot CA7700 primer, single light coat.

Hi Joe,

Thanks for the reply. So you don't have to apply the eap as per the instructions? (In their video they spray it and then dab the runs off which seems quite labourious). How do you find the induction time? (1.5 hours!). I suppose you can just mix the paint then start cleaning your parts (and hope you don't need a tiny bit more at the end). Also how is the try time? The TDS says 6 hours to dry -
I not other builders using the azko and it dries in 5 mins.

Where do you get your ppg from? (Just a local car place?)
 
Hi Trent,
It can be applied with cheesecloth accorrding to the tech sheet. It does not take too long to dry either. In a warm environment, it is usually dry within 20-30 mins
I usually mix, then start prepping parts. It has a decent pot life.
I work for PPG, so get mine through work, and don't get too much choice. I would have preferred eap12, but they only had some eap9 at the time.
If you make contact with Adrian Port through either here (username Tassie), or through his website (http://www.tasrv10.com/), he will be able to direct you to where he has bought his from. (Adrian is using the same system, and is alodining). Check his build log, there is lots on how he is priming.
Cheers.
 
Truly thank you for all your responses.

Looking into all of this has been confusing, especially since most commonly used products on the forums and net etc can't readily be gotten in Australia.

In considering the options, and that I will be doing this in my backyard, I am leaning toward the stewart systems paint. My only concern here is the durability to fluids. The ekoprime (although recommended by Stewart's via email) would be great as it is single part, and i can put it back in the can (and cheaper) but I would be seriously worried about fuel causing it to come off.

That leaves the ekopoxy which they say is fluid resistant. I understand not as resistant as akzo or ppg etc but then the Rv doesn't have skydrol etc. all we need to worry about is some fuel and maybe brake fluid? (Oil?).

A question for Tom: did you buy your ekopoxy from the US or from skyshop?
How come you didn't decide to do the ekoclean and ekoetch products as well?

The final concern; is using a waterbased product going to limit my options when I finally get around to exterior painting?

I think the next step is to order the vans practice kit and some paint and have at it!

Thanks again all.
 
I've been using EkoPoxy to prime my RV-10. It's quite durable in my opinion, but I've found that it needs about 48 hours to cure enough for me to be comfortable working with the parts. After 48 hours, it's very tough to scratch and dimpling won't bother it, but I can still scrape some off with a bucking bar if I'm not careful enough while riveting.

I've had a few parts that I wasn't satisfied with the way I sprayed them (problems with the spray gun) and decided to remove the primer the next day and start over. Lacquer thinner and a towel will remove the stuff but the amount of scrubbing it takes is one heck of a workout!
 
I purchased my ekopoxy direct from Stewart Systems when I brought my kit over. Regarding the prep process for the ekopoxy, I did this exactly per Stewart Systems recommendations (using ekoclean, ekoetch, maroon scotchbrite etc) and was very happy with the results. For the Wattyl Superetch the process clean, scotchbrite, clean. Surface cleaning and prep is probably the most critical item if you want any of these primers to stick correctly. Also, if you are really concerned about chemical resistance, then you can always top coat the components. I have top coated items with PU such as the wheel pant attach brackets etc. where I need extra durability or chemical resistance.
Tom.
 
Sea air land

In the preliminary stages and planning before an emp order, and had a question on priming.

Without getting into a big debate, I think i understand the pros and cons to priming, and from reading a million posts it seems some form of prep is in order (alumiprep alone, alumiprep / alodine, prekote) followed by a primer.

All these products are easily found in Australia (www.aeroparts.com.au). I think prekote sounds like the best option as it is very safe and easily washed away.

Seems the akzo 463 primer is popular, and bulletproof (and likely the best choice), BUT:
1. Where the heck do you buy that in Australia (a moderately dedicated search came up with nothing)
2. The health problems and cleanup problems may be hard to justify in my garage with a 3 year old running around.
3. Shipping from the US would be $$$ due HAZMAT

So, that leaves the stewart systems primer?
1. I assume shipping is not too bad as it is not volatile and likely not DG?
2. Not certain on the compatibiity with other paints though. Their website isn't very clear on this.
3. Is it as bulletproof as akzo?

In summary, if people have chosen to prime and they are in AUS, what systems did you choose and can you give a quick summary of your process / what suppliers you used (hopefully local).

Thanks again I advance. Appreciate any help.

Call or email Glen McKensie seairland for AkZO Glen is awesome and will get you sorted with paint. Make sure you wear a respirator.

I'll PM his contact number and email address.
 
@andrew - what is the difference between the EAP-9/12 and the alumiprep? Does the EAP-9/12 not etch the surface to paint? I watched their video and it seems a very long winded process (induction time, spraying, dabbing off excess etc). How did you get around the mixing when doing small parts (the activator is in a pretty small bottle and seems hard to weight out accurately).

Answer: The Alumiprep is an etch that makes sure that you have a substrate that is "rough" to help the binding of the product. The EAP-9/12 is not meant to require it, however, I added it for additional comfort of adhesion. The EAP-9/12 is a product that effectively creates a layer that has a bonding to the Aluminium and creates a bonding layer for the Epoxy. Helps the Epoxy bond.


Do you guys find you had much contamination of oil since you were using air tools and a sprayer on the same compressor? Or did you run a seperate line from the compressor for painting? (I was thinking of a split right out of the compressor - one way into the walls for the shop air (tools) and the other off the compressor for painting only).

Answer: I ran a few filters/condensers and separators. I had two in line and then one at the gun. I specifically had a spray gun line and an airtools line. I only used the line for the spray gun with the spray gun, and visa-versa. Another tip I picked up is run your line across the concrete as far as possible prior to the condenser filters, it helps to condense the water vapor allowing the filter condensers to work at their optimum.

Hope this helps.
 
Just a follow up.

In addition, the EAP9 only needs to be mist coated to work well. No need to wipe off any runs.

I used the 3M PPS system also. Very nice.

The coating is as hard as an epoxy should be.

I generally collected a number of parts and did a parts "paint run". The small amount of the activator I just used a syringe to measure. It worked very well.

Extremely happy with results and no need to worry about being poisoned. Military use it so works for me.

Have fun.. :)
 
Small jobs

Since the Akzo has an easy 1:1 mixing ratio I found that small jobs can be handled with the 1 oz jar in a cheap Badger air brush. It's also easy to clean.

713Ew%2BghbIL._SX355_.jpg


For slightly bigger small jobs a 2 oz jar is also available.
 
Back
Top