Van's Air Force
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preheat adapter 3D print
- Thread starter A5555
- Start date
Scott Hersha
Well Known Member
Hey Steve - I want one of those! I've been using a ceramic box heater for years to supplement my Reiff oil pan heater....... but my 6" flex duct doesn't fit so well into the bottom of my 'new' RV4 cowl. This ceramic heater, along with a blanket over the cowl, will do an adequate job of preheating the engine in my hangar if given enough time all by itself. OT gets to about 90 degrees with just the ceramic heater in about 3 hours. However, I just installed a new Reiff oil pan heater on my RV4 engine, so the ceramic heater supplements this to warm the cylinders, and even helps warm the cockpit with the cabin heat valve open. What do you want for the adapter? I know what kind of beer you like.........
Scott Hersha
Well Known Member
You're hired!! ...... And.... I make my own beer....
humptybump
Well Known Member
I was looking at this part and thought, "DanH would make this out of Fiberglas". Then it dawned on me there is a way to put these two ideas together.
If you wanted to make an intricate form for Fiberglas vacuumed bagging, you could 3D print the form using PVA. Then just use water to dissolve the printed form when you are finished.
If you wanted to make an intricate form for Fiberglas vacuumed bagging, you could 3D print the form using PVA. Then just use water to dissolve the printed form when you are finished.
Weasel
Well Known Member
Have been printing a little while now and was just about to pull the trigger on some PLA filament for making molds. The down side is the PLA is quite a bit more expensive so it would be used on more specific parts.
BTW Steve, That print turned out nice
that's a good idea.
Scott Hersha
Well Known Member
Put a 'Y' fitting on your aluminum flex duct so you can heat both areas (cowl & NACA) with the same heater.
SuperCubDriver
Well Known Member
Cool ideas - now I need a 3D printer - my next tool !!
Curious which printer you're using. This is really cool.
David Paule
Well Known Member
Gotta note that this is primarily a combination of single-curved shapes. It could be made by any sheet-metal worker.
Any of those around here?
Dave
Any of those around here?
Dave
Steve,
Great job! Looks really cool.
Please share the pictures of your second iteration using ABS.
Great job! Looks really cool.
Please share the pictures of your second iteration using ABS.
Lulzbot TAZ6
WingsOnWheels
Well Known Member
Probably just a typo, But don't get those two mixed up. PLA is not what you need for mold-making, but rather PVA. HIPS is another good option.
ABS printed preheat duct
Some layer cracks with ABS. ABS should be able to withstand 210F. My heater output measured, 170F. Added internal holes for spring rods to the snag end if extra snag is needed. Progressing on my enclosed print chamber to hopefully eliminate the cracks. Chamber: vented and filtered, temperature controlled, smoke detector, lighted. An old TV location.
Some layer cracks with ABS. ABS should be able to withstand 210F. My heater output measured, 170F. Added internal holes for spring rods to the snag end if extra snag is needed. Progressing on my enclosed print chamber to hopefully eliminate the cracks. Chamber: vented and filtered, temperature controlled, smoke detector, lighted. An old TV location.
ABS printed preheat duct with fiberglass
I am able to print an ABS preheat duct without cracks. to achieve the stiffness required for use I needed to add 2 layers of fiberglass to the inside fwd rectangle. the duct attaches easily and is secure. the ABS withstands the heat of the small box heater and heats the engine well. the ABS does not scratch paint.
I am able to print an ABS preheat duct without cracks. to achieve the stiffness required for use I needed to add 2 layers of fiberglass to the inside fwd rectangle. the duct attaches easily and is secure. the ABS withstands the heat of the small box heater and heats the engine well. the ABS does not scratch paint.
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gerrychuck
Well Known Member
Couple of comments:
First - awesome work!
Second - have you tried printing with polyurethane, such as Polymaker PC Plus? Supposedly works very well with desktop printers, and has significantly higher heat tolerance than ABS.
Third - I would strongly suggest elevating the heater off the floor a bit; any fuel leaks can result in fumes pooling near the floor, with the potential of a large boom when the electric element is right on the ground. This has happened to a few people over the years with catastrophic results, but can easily be prevented by putting the heater on even a low table, stool, or what I used, a step stool. Not a problem if you're always present while the heater is on, but if you're using a remote switch to turn it on before leaving for the airport it can be an issue.
Last - any thought of routing a return duct back to the heater from the cooling inlet of the cowling? I did that with my crude setup, and it can really increase the efficiency of the setup and, as a result, the speed with which you can raise the temp of your engine. Circulating the heated air back through the heater does make a difference, although it isn't essential. Before I insulated and heated my hangar, I could have my oil temp at 100*F in a little over an hour even on really cold days using that system.
First - awesome work!
Second - have you tried printing with polyurethane, such as Polymaker PC Plus? Supposedly works very well with desktop printers, and has significantly higher heat tolerance than ABS.
Third - I would strongly suggest elevating the heater off the floor a bit; any fuel leaks can result in fumes pooling near the floor, with the potential of a large boom when the electric element is right on the ground. This has happened to a few people over the years with catastrophic results, but can easily be prevented by putting the heater on even a low table, stool, or what I used, a step stool. Not a problem if you're always present while the heater is on, but if you're using a remote switch to turn it on before leaving for the airport it can be an issue.
Last - any thought of routing a return duct back to the heater from the cooling inlet of the cowling? I did that with my crude setup, and it can really increase the efficiency of the setup and, as a result, the speed with which you can raise the temp of your engine. Circulating the heated air back through the heater does make a difference, although it isn't essential. Before I insulated and heated my hangar, I could have my oil temp at 100*F in a little over an hour even on really cold days using that system.
Moose Jaw Saskatchewan
Gerry, Moose Jaw Saskatchewan, now I learned of a new place. I took a look at it on Google. It's on the Trans-Canada highway. The Snowbirds seems to have a base there. Nice airport!
I took a look at Polymaker PC Plus. I didn't know it existed. Yep, the temperature and strength is higher. I think my printer head can reach the temperature required. I will order some an give it a try. However, the ABS with the fiberglass reinforcement is sufficient for this part using the small box heater. It doesn't take long to heat the engine. I'll put a thermocouple on the engine and measure some temperatures and time for grins.
Appreciate the comment about raising the heater off the floor in case of a fuel leak since I heat the engine using a switchbox and remote cell phone. The heater is on boards that raise it 1.5 inches now. Need to look at all electrical connections and get them off the floor. Heater = $15, adapter to heat box = $6, flexible duct = $10.
I have no thoughts of recirculating the air to the heater. The heater has an internal temp limiter. If I did that I am sure I would over temp the heater and shut it off. However, I am planning to make a duct that will fit the nose cowl to allow heating from the top so that when my knees are too sore to crawl under I can heat from the top.
Is the fishing any good in Moose Jaw Saskatchewan?
Gerry, Moose Jaw Saskatchewan, now I learned of a new place. I took a look at it on Google. It's on the Trans-Canada highway. The Snowbirds seems to have a base there. Nice airport!
I took a look at Polymaker PC Plus. I didn't know it existed. Yep, the temperature and strength is higher. I think my printer head can reach the temperature required. I will order some an give it a try. However, the ABS with the fiberglass reinforcement is sufficient for this part using the small box heater. It doesn't take long to heat the engine. I'll put a thermocouple on the engine and measure some temperatures and time for grins.
Appreciate the comment about raising the heater off the floor in case of a fuel leak since I heat the engine using a switchbox and remote cell phone. The heater is on boards that raise it 1.5 inches now. Need to look at all electrical connections and get them off the floor. Heater = $15, adapter to heat box = $6, flexible duct = $10.
I have no thoughts of recirculating the air to the heater. The heater has an internal temp limiter. If I did that I am sure I would over temp the heater and shut it off. However, I am planning to make a duct that will fit the nose cowl to allow heating from the top so that when my knees are too sore to crawl under I can heat from the top.
Is the fishing any good in Moose Jaw Saskatchewan?
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internal features
hey, I know it's silly to get excited about a preheat duct but it's been bugging me for 3 years. internal features to printed parts allow for neat additions that you couldn't achieve by molded parts without a lot of work. internal spring rods are not really needed with the fiberglass but they are cool. surprising how well epoxy bonds to ABS after scuffing with 80 grit. and a note to Scott, you were right, opening the cabin heat vent allows some warm air into the cockpit from the cowl heater.
hey, I know it's silly to get excited about a preheat duct but it's been bugging me for 3 years. internal features to printed parts allow for neat additions that you couldn't achieve by molded parts without a lot of work. internal spring rods are not really needed with the fiberglass but they are cool. surprising how well epoxy bonds to ABS after scuffing with 80 grit. and a note to Scott, you were right, opening the cabin heat vent allows some warm air into the cockpit from the cowl heater.
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Polymaker PC Max is definitely a great medium. I'm using it for a battery box and several other misc components in my RV6.
As far as ABS goes, I'm running my chamber heat at 70C. I can regularly print .125 wall items (large or small) without delaminatuon. It's a generic ABS from Fry's, so I don't know how the material stacks up against other brands of ABS filament. I also run pretty slow on my Prusa i3 to get a smooth finish.. for abs I'm around 20mm/s
As far as ABS goes, I'm running my chamber heat at 70C. I can regularly print .125 wall items (large or small) without delaminatuon. It's a generic ABS from Fry's, so I don't know how the material stacks up against other brands of ABS filament. I also run pretty slow on my Prusa i3 to get a smooth finish.. for abs I'm around 20mm/s
humptybump
Well Known Member
For those looking for forums focused on 3D printing and tools, the resources I use are:
There are a lot of resources on the internet and you can find the ones that match your needs and preferences.
- Printer vendor forums for hardware and configuration
- Reddit for non-vendor hardware such as clones
- Reddit for 3D printing ideas, debugging, and general help
- Reddit and Slicer specific forums for getting the most of of a print - especially difficult or complex designs
There are a lot of resources on the internet and you can find the ones that match your needs and preferences.
gerrychuck
Well Known Member
Glad I could help educate you, Steve! Yes, there is a military air base here; 15 Wing. It is both the main training base for the RCAF and the home base for 431 Air Demonstration Squadron, AKA The Snowbirds.
As for fishing, we're in the middle of the prairie. There are a few lakes around with decent fishing, but for the really good stuff, you have to go further north. Ice fishing is a big deal around here though (aka sitting in a little wood hut all day drinking). Not really my thing though, lol.
thanks for the fishing info. I am planning a trip to Baldwin MI for steelhead fishing in March. thread drift.... has anyone loaded a sea eagle 285 boat in an RV? and you don't need to register it in Michigan. that's a plus! tell your wife you want to buy a boat and you will get a strange look.
https://www.seaeagle.com/FramelessFishingBoats/285fpb
https://www.seaeagle.com/FramelessFishingBoats/285fpb
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