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Anything to do before top installation?

digidocs

digidocs

Well Known Member
Hi VAF,

Getting very close to final installation of the cabin top on the RV-10. Do you have any suggestions for things to do before gluing it in place or possible gotchas?

Major items completed so far:
- doors fitted with seals, hinges, latches, etc.
- overhead console installed
- fiberglass finished inside/outside and painted
- interior metal painted

Thanks for the help,
David
 
There isn't anything that has to be done. It just changes the amount of effort it takes to do some tasks. It may also depend on your personal preference on how well you like working in cramped spaces.

I held off riveting the upper forward fuselage assembly so that I could work on the panel harness on the bench. It comes on and off pretty easily with the cabin cover in place. Assuming that it isn't already riveted in place.

Also, have you pull all your wiring that needs to run to the tail? That's a task that's easier to do with the cabin cover off.

I also held off on the top empennage skin until the very last minute to give better access to the batteries and other components I located behind the baggage bulkhead.
 
Trim rings

If you are not using Geoffs interior you should make some window trim rings before your windows are installed.

Gary
 
Gary 40274 said:
If you are not using Geoffs interior you should make some window trim rings before your windows are installed.

Gary
Click to expand...

And if you are using the Aerosport Products headliner, don't trim until the windows are installed. Your lines will be off if you use a strip of fiberglass to cover the seam. Ask me how I know. :eek:
 
As I move ahead, I find this thread is relevant to my interests - or will be before the end of winter:rolleyes:

Is it possible to complete section 43, Cabin cover, to just shy of final attachment, while keeping the upper forward fuselage assembly (section 31) clecoed in place so as to allow fitting as much avionics as possible, on the bench, as late in the game as possible? Can't be 100% confident from reading ahead in the plans; thought I should ask.

Thanks, everyone.

So far, 6-11, 13-18, 21,22, 25-29 are 99.5% completed. I think I'll be fitting the cabin top soon and don't want to commit to an avionics suite that early.
 
Bill Boyd said:
As I move ahead, I find this thread is relevant to my interests - or will be before the end of winter:rolleyes:

Is it possible to complete section 43, Cabin cover, to just shy of final attachment, while keeping the upper forward fuselage assembly (section 31) clecoed in place so as to allow fitting as much avionics as possible, on the bench, as late in the game as possible? Can't be 100% confident from reading ahead in the plans; thought I should ask.

Thanks, everyone.

So far, 6-11, 13-18, 21,22, 25-29 are 99.5% completed. I think I'll be fitting the cabin top soon and don't want to commit to an avionics suite that early.
Click to expand...

You can install the panel structure after the cabin top is permanently installed. I have cabin top installed, up on gear, engine hung.... and my panel structure is sitting on a bench.

Does that answer your question?
 
Forward Fuse

So you hung the 400+ pound engine 2 feet from the firewall without the upper forward fuselage installed?

Do the holes still line up? :eek:
 
rocketman1988 said:
So you hung the 400+ pound engine 2 feet from the firewall without the upper forward fuselage installed?

Do the holes still line up? :eek:
Click to expand...

Yep. It's all good. Many people do it this way, and the plans specifically say it's okay to do. If you look at how it all goes together, there's really no structural contribution made by the upper forward fuselage structure (panel structure).
I've had the panel structure on and off a few times since hanging the engine. All is well.
 
Cool.

So, the only thing that has to wait on the forward upper fuse assembly being permanently in place is the windshield, not the cabin top. Is that correct? That's a very good thing to have going for us - glad to know.
 
Panel

Are you using a one piece panel, and if so, are you retaining the lower panel angle.

I know some people use an 080 panel and roll the bottom edge...what are you doing?
 
rocketman1988 said:
Are you using a one piece panel, and if so, are you retaining the lower panel angle.

I know some people use an 080 panel and roll the bottom edge...what are you doing?
Click to expand...

Mine is a one piece panel from Stein. I remember the thickness, but it is thicker than stock, and rolled.
 
Complete 100% of the wire and instruments with two exceptions.

1. The door latch alarms
2. The firewall forward wire, have it thru the firewall.

Install the throttle, prop, mixture, alt air, cabin heat controls hanging loose until the engine is mounted.

Finish the inside of the cabin top, painted if that's your choice or ready to cover.

Paint all the permanently installed side panels that need it, Including the tunnel.

In other words, complete everything you can, climbing in and out, working overhead on your back or laying on your belly is the definition of torture! (Not true if you are under 25 and a trained acrobat or lover of pain)
 
rocketman1988 said:
So you deleted the stock bottom support angle and attach the panel edges to the original support angle mount?
Click to expand...

The panel uses all the original screw locations along the upper edge. Since that lower angle was supposed to be riveted to the side skins, I plan on attaching a small angle on each side skin at the bottom that I'll be able to secure the bottom of the panel to.
Does that answer your question?
 
rocketman1988 said:
So you deleted the stock bottom support angle and attach the panel edges to the original support angle mount?
Click to expand...

Of note, the stock bottom panel provides a great place to mount all the switches, breakers, air controls (cabin, engine, oil cooler) and such. Keeping all this stuff that "stays in the plane" makes for easy design of a fully removable panel. Mine goes in or comes out in less than 15 minutes.

Carl
 
But

If you mount the switches in the angle that stays in the plane, you then need to match drill the same holes in the panel, correct? That would require removing every switch retaining nut every time you remove the panel, correct?

Or did you drill the panel oversized to clear the retaining nuts?

Just trying to finalize my plan...
 
rocketman1988 said:
If you mount the switches in the angle that stays in the plane, you then need to match drill the same holes in the panel, correct? That would require removing every switch retaining nut every time you remove the panel, correct?

Or did you drill the panel oversized to clear the retaining nuts?

Just trying to finalize my plan...
Click to expand...

Take a look at page 41-1. You can see that there is room to place switches on the F-1003B angle, below the lower edge of the F-1003A panel sheet. Therefore, you can remove the panel, while leaving switches installed.
 
rocketman1988 said:
If you mount the switches in the angle that stays in the plane, you then need to match drill the same holes in the panel, correct? That would require removing every switch retaining nut every time you remove the panel, correct?
.
Click to expand...

No - not at all. The top of the lower panel has nutplates for the upper panel to attach. All the switches, breakers and controls are below this.

Carl
 
Of interest

is the switch layout used by Advanced Flight Systems and others, where the few necessary switches are on removable sub-panels mounted within the main panels, not on the lower strip.

I was going with that lower strip switch placement idea on the RV-6A



before the panel-in-progress got a little overdone :eek:



... but I must admit I love the way the AFS quick panels and similar handle the switch mounting task.
 
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