What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Using an engraver

3

330Jock

Well Known Member
I just read a post about using an engraver to mark all the parts before priming so it will be readable after cleaning and priming. Isn't that a no no? I thought any scratches etc., could lead to stress cracks. Someone please hep me out here.
Bill
 
My understanding is that using an engraver is OK. Magnifying the engraving shows a line of small indentations...the surface is not being scratched.
Take a look at QB wings. The wing root spars are engraved at the factory. Engraving an identifying code to the parts to be primed is a good idea.
It is a little tricky tying to i-dent the parts after the stickers are off.:)
 
Last edited:
Bill

Welcome to the forums.

Not saying that the engraving method is wrong or right but that it is a lot of extra work when a sharpie works just fine. I used a black sharpie and the ID was readable through the primer. If it isn't, maybe a little too much primer was being applied. Try it out on a scratch piece.

Hope this helps.
 
I agree with using the sharpie. It works very well for me, and I tend to use it liberally. If' I'm match drilling holes and get interrupted, I mark where I left off so I don't miss any holes. When disassembling after match drilling, I use it to mark where parts go to make re-assembly easier.
 
330Jock said:
I just read a post about using an engraver to mark all the parts before priming so it will be readable after cleaning and priming. Isn't that a no no? I thought any scratches etc., could lead to stress cracks. Someone please hep me out here.
Bill
Click to expand...

I am not close to my instructions to give you a reference, but Van's instructions does allow using a vibrating engraver.
 
flytoboat said:
I am not close to my instructions to give you a reference, but Van's instructions does allow using a vibrating engraver.
Click to expand...

Agreed, Van's endorses it and the wing spars are engraved. I bought a cheap one from Harbor Freight and it works great, and frankly doesnt take any longer than using a sharpie since I keep it handy at the workbench. Personal preference...but its safe to do. And welcome!
 
Also, a sharpie will *not* survive the clean/acid etch/alodine process. Which is more work than primer, but according to those who have done real world testing in a salt water bath, will provide the same protection as epoxy primer with effectively unmeasurable increase in weight.

Charlie
 
Solvent wipes

Sharpie also will not survive a good solvent wipe, which should be done before primer is applied. Or you have to apply twice- once when first building/assembling the part, then again right after wiping clean prior to priming.

Dwight
 
Small card tags on strings work, too. Like a Sharpie, you need to remove it for cleaning or priming. Unlike Sharpies or engraving, you remove them before final assembly. And unlike engraving, there's no chance of harming the part.

The collection of used tags is a reference to what is finally assembled.

The downsides to these are that they can infrequently fall off, or get mutilated, and once they are off, there's no indication that the part has any identification.

Pros and cons - but at least there is a third approach to the issue.

Dave
 
David Paule said:
Pros and cons - but at least there is a third approach to the issue.
Click to expand...
Here's a fourth approach. With either the original Vans markings or my own Sharpie markings, I take a picture of the part(s) with my iPhone. Then clean with Extreme Simple Green and 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (separately), acid-wash with Alumiprep, and Alodine.

Usually I don't need the pics to identify parts but if I do, I have them. The 99% alcohol removes all trace of Sharpie markings.
 
I used the engraver on quite a few parts...it was quick, easy, survived cleaning and painting...

There are quite a few parts that need specific orientations or locations, and it was easy to mark a part one side or another ("L", "F", "Up", "OB for outboard, etc.) so that after processing, cleaning, painting, I was assured the correct part went back in the correct location with the correct orientation, every time.
 
Electric Marker Tool

330Jock said:
....about using an engraver to mark all the parts before priming so it will be readable after cleaning and priming....
Click to expand...
To permanently identify individual parts with tell-tale marks that will never wash or fade away, industrial users including airframe shops commonly rely on some type of engraving pencil. An assortment of key parts included in our RV kits are often marked with such a tool. In operation, the rather loud sounding vibrating tool "peens" the surface of the material, it does not remove anything. Shown below is my example. I wouldn't be at all surprised if Van's uses this pen or some other brand of electric marker to permanently identify many of its own parts.

For more information, simply Google "electric marker." Here's one source:

http://www.martindaleco.com/html/otherproducts/martindaleelectricmarker.htm


2pqsxeq.jpg
 
I primed required parts only. Sharpie worked great and was much nicer to my ears. I primed as I went, remembered proper orientation and remarked after cleaning. Once primed your sharpie marks bleed through. Another advantage of not priming anymore than necessary. How do you think I finished in two years? Nope, not retired. Add the time it takes to install hearing protection, find your engraver and mark the parts X 5,000. The only thing I engraved was my data plate. When I used to overhaul jet engines we engraved only in certain lower stressed areas.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top