Dual LSE Plug Wire Routing?

I'm going to be running dual Lightspeed ignition boxes on my RV10. On my first go at routing the plug wires, I had it looking very neat and tidy, planning to have the plug wire bundles wire tied together. But then I remembered that I should be keeping some separation between the plug wires to help prevent cross-firing between the wires. So now I need to figure out how to secure the plug wires in a neat fashion, while still maintaining some plug wire separation.

I'm mounting all 6 coils on a plate directly behind the rear baffle.

Does anyone have any pictures of a good way to do this?

As a side note, this is the general layout of the coils and plug wires if anyone has any comments:

These may help:

http://bit.ly/1tfp2vK

I was able to bundle wires, but keep separation by crossing zip ties. Here's a random photo of the concept I found on the web:


Guy

vlittle said:

These may help:

http://bit.ly/1tfp2vK

Click to expand...

Cute. I know about plug wire separators, I'm questioning how to secure the bundles to the engine and motor mount.

Should I just use an adel clamp around one plug wire then secure the other wires to that wire? Something like this?



If this is the way I go, I'll still need to figure out a separate routing method for my sensor wires.

Well, I can't speak for others but I looked at the wires LSE provided and didn't like how close that would put the bottom wires to the exhausts. Besides, because of where I put my coils, I needed some custom runs anyway. So off to Summit Racing for wire, straight connectors for the bottom plugs, and the plastic clip-style separators that have a screw hole in the center. The top wires were easy; they didn't run near any sensor wires and there were plenty of places to attach them. For the bottom runs, I wanted to stay away from the sensors and the coils were attached to the engine mount. The run from the coils to the sides of the engine could be supported in several places with the separators attached to the engine mount with adel clamp. The last part of the run is free to the straight connectors (which are very rigid and keep the wires clear of the exhaust and intake tubes). I bundled the runs so the shorter run helps support the longer run on each side (this is on a 360; I hope this also works on the 540 in my -10 or I will have to come up with something else; maybe a loop back to a clamp at the top of the valve covers, though the side clearance in my -6A cowl tells me that this might be a problem). In practice, there is enough 'give' that starting does not strain the wires but the wires are hefty enough that they stay put during normal run. I've checked for chafing or any signs of fatigue and so far they look and act like new (only 200 hours but that's almost 10% of the overhaul life of the engine anyway). Since I have only been able to compare with commercial aviation installations (different wires, etc.) it is possible that I could have routed the spark wires closer to sensor wires without issue but my setup has not raised the eyebrows of A&Ps who have seen the installation; they are usually more interested in the connectors and how well they stay attached.