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  #21  
Old 04-23-2017, 10:44 AM
RFSchaller RFSchaller is offline
 
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Joe,

They are installed, so no picture, but think of a D with the bottom edge bent 90 degrees. I traced the tongue onto a piece of 0.025" aluminum and added enough at the bottom to bend 90 degrees so that when I cut it out and made the bend I had a shim that covered the forward face of the forward stub spar and the straight portion of the bottom of the tongue. I did not add any shim to the curved edge, and I did not shim the rear spar tongue.

The reason I shimmed the front tongue was I noticed a click when I boarded as my weight went onto the wing. I also noticed about 3/32-1/8" play at the wing tip. The shims got rid of both.

Rich
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  #22  
Old 04-23-2017, 02:40 PM
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DonFromTX DonFromTX is offline
 
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I am having a mental block, for the life of me I cannot visualize this shim. Can someone draw a picture?
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  #23  
Old 02-19-2019, 12:47 AM
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randylervold randylervold is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
FAQ section of Van's web site.......

http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/RV-1..._SPAR_PLAY.pdf
Link is no longer valid, likely a casualty of the web site update. Anyone know the current location?
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  #24  
Old 02-19-2019, 01:52 AM
woxofswa woxofswa is offline
 
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Location: Mesa Arizona
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Sorry, couldn’t resist.

https://youtu.be/GFYf42UE9gk
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RV-10 BPE, Dynon, Airflow systems A/C
First flight May 10, 2014
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  #25  
Old 02-19-2019, 09:20 AM
bobg56 bobg56 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Peachtree City, GA
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I had the same problem. Vans allows .050 measured play at rear stub spar according to which light connector you have, the newer being a socket type the older is made of screw heads contacting prongs which I think allows only .010 play....I used aluminum speed tape around the rear stub to take out the play. I have heard of others that had this issue.. if Vans allows .050 it means they know of this issue. It may seem a lot of movement from the wing tip but may not be that much when measured from the wing root...there is I believe a M/M revision that address this.
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  #26  
Old 02-19-2019, 09:45 AM
greghughespdx greghughespdx is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randylervold View Post
Link is no longer valid, likely a casualty of the web site update. Anyone know the current location?
I'll fix the link (thanks for the heads-up), but the content in that document was moved a couple weeks ago to the latest rev of the service/maintenance manual.

https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/rv-...ing-spar-play/
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  #27  
Old 02-19-2019, 10:24 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rongawer View Post
Once the right fit is made, if you still need to remove material to get full insertion of the main spars (getting the pins lined up), just use some emory cloth and remove around the entire surface to maintain the pin shape.
Actually this is incorrect.

The end of the spar stub is an approximately 180 deg radius that matches a pocket in the fuselage of the same radius and overall dimension.
If the desire is to have the stub insert further but still be tight, you would need to remove a varying amount of material around the perimeter of the stub end, with the most being removed at the very end and none at the top and bottom.
If you need a visual. use to circles/discs of equal diameter. Align them with one over the other and then slowly slide one out of alignment. You will see that the exposed amount of the second disc will be different along the entire edge (same as what happens in an eclips).

If you remove an equal amount of material around the entire radius, you are allowing the stub to move further inboard but you are also increasing the vertical clearance and allowing the stub to move vertically up and down (not desirable).

BTW, this is also why inserting a shim into the pocket to correct a loose wing is not a good idea. Because the shim should not be the same thickness around the entire perimeter of the pocket.
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Last edited by rvbuilder2002 : 02-19-2019 at 10:27 PM.
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  #28  
Old 02-20-2019, 09:53 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rongawer View Post
Once the radius is correct, AND the spar pin is still too long, dressing down the entire radius will preserve that shape, but allow further insertion. I don't see your point of disagreement.
I was not questioning your advice regarding resolving localized points of interference.
My comment was if you have uniform contact but the wing still needs to insert a bit further. Your advice of removing material from the entire perimeter of the stub is wrong. The reason for my post was to prevent builders from following that portion of your advice.
Your comment quoted above does indicate that you don't understand you don't understand the reason. The best suggestion I can make is to use my visualization example.

As an alternative to that, look at what happens when you miss-align holes in two pieces of material. The amount of miss-alignment is not equal around the entire half of the hole. Any adjustment to the spar stub should be done with the same thought in mind.
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  #29  
Old 02-20-2019, 09:58 AM
NinerBikes NinerBikes is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
I was not questioning your advice regarding resolving localized points of interference.
My comment was if you have uniform contact but the wing still needs to insert a bit further. Your advice of removing material from the entire perimeter of the stub is wrong. The reason for my post was to prevent builders from following that portion of your advice.
Your comment quoted above does indicate that you don't understand you don't understand the reason. The best suggestion I can make is to use my visualization example.

As an alternative to that, look at what happens when you miss-align holes in two pieces of material. The amount of miss-alignment is not equal around the entire half of the hole. Any adjustment to the spar stub should be done with the same thought in mind.
Sometimes, a few pictures are worth 10,000 words. If it's in your means and not too time consuming, this might be a good time to have some photo's hosted with links to them to demonstrate visually what you are trying to convey. Keep in mind, some of us are visual learners, not reading comprehension learners.

Just trying to help, here, and it goes for rongawer too. Post up pics, if you have the time. Or even some simple diagrams on a lunch napkin.
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  #30  
Old 02-20-2019, 10:40 AM
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randylervold randylervold is offline
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Scott, I understand what you're trying to explain: if looking at the spar stub from aft, if one removed an even margin for the 180° radius then you'd have double what is needed removed from the 12:00 and 6:00 position. A graphic would explain this but I don't have time to generate one now.

More importantly, I'm just glad this issue came to my attention while I'm doing my preliminary construction. Those doublers have quite aggressive machining marks on them and would have taken them to my scotchbrite wheel and may have removed too much just in the interest of dressing the edges to remove all stress risers and improve cosmetics. I'll now not likely dress them until during the fit process and I think that is the important thing for the archives. I'll mention/document this on my build site as well to help future builders.
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