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  #31  
Old 02-20-2019, 12:03 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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To properly make an adjustment you would remove the required amount from location A, and remove nothing from location B (and the corresponding position at the bottom). and everything in between would be by a varying amount.

So to my original point, you should never remove an equal amount from around the perimeter of the stub.
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  #32  
Old 02-20-2019, 12:45 PM
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randylervold randylervold is offline
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Perfect, good to have in this thread for the archives!
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  #33  
Old 02-20-2019, 03:01 PM
rv9builder rv9builder is offline
 
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Here's a photo that might be helpful. See the first post in this thread:

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...par+receptacle

It looks like the trick is to remove just enough material from the stub spar to get a good fit with the receptacle.
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  #34  
Old 02-25-2019, 09:26 PM
fr0gpil0t fr0gpil0t is offline
 
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I'm just at this point in the fuselage build. I'm pretty sure I have the orientation right but the fit looks a little weird. I assume just a small amount of clean up to tighten the fit.



Should it be like this


Or add some dihedral and the top side of stub spar is against the fitting like this

Last edited by fr0gpil0t : 02-25-2019 at 11:02 PM. Reason: add image
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  #35  
Old 02-25-2019, 10:48 PM
HansLab HansLab is offline
 
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To properly make an adjustment you would remove the required amount from location A, and remove nothing from location B (and the corresponding position at the bottom). and everything in between would be by a varying amount.

So to my original point, you should never remove an equal amount from around the perimeter of the stub.

If all parts are equally cut (and with CNC, they hopefully are) adjustment should be needed just from locations B (top & bottom) as I see it, according to the photograph?
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  #36  
Old 02-26-2019, 03:03 PM
rv9builder rv9builder is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fr0gpil0t View Post
Should it be like this...

Or add some dihedral and the top side of stub spar is against the fitting like this
I was wondering the exact same thing. Maybe send the photos to tech support and ask which position is correct? Please let us know what they say.

Thanks,
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  #37  
Old 02-26-2019, 03:28 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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This thread has morphed into a different subject.
Previously it was talking about making adjustments on a wing where the spar pins were very hard to install (prior to the wing root seal being installed).

The above photos were likely taken while test fitting the mating part from the wing and the fuselage.
At that time, you can see specific locations of interference and do a localized adjustment. This is why the KAI is written in the way that it is.... expecting the wings to be built before the fuselage (so that this check can be made). Once the parts are built into the fuselage, this level of check is not possible.
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  #38  
Old 02-26-2019, 06:33 PM
fr0gpil0t fr0gpil0t is offline
 
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Scott,

First off sorry for morphing the thread. Coincidentally this thread came up when I was just starting work on installing the "pockets" for the stub spar. I thought it would be helpful for everyone to see how these parts actually look, because as you mention once this part of the plane is assembled everything is pretty much hidden.

Reading about the loose wing that can happen by not getting this right has me made extra cautious. I looked at another photo referenced in the thread and it show the top of the stub spar pushed against the machined fitting. I could only reproduce this setup with the wing having a large dihedral. So I'm a little unclear of the geometry of how these two parts fit together.

I want to get it right as once assembled it looks like a guessing game to shape a replacement stub spar.


Robert
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  #39  
Old 02-26-2019, 10:27 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fr0gpil0t View Post
Scott,

First off sorry for morphing the thread. Coincidentally this thread came up when I was just starting work on installing the "pockets" for the stub spar. I thought it would be helpful for everyone to see how these parts actually look, because as you mention once this part of the plane is assembled everything is pretty much hidden.

Reading about the loose wing that can happen by not getting this right has me made extra cautious. I looked at another photo referenced in the thread and it show the top of the stub spar pushed against the machined fitting. I could only reproduce this setup with the wing having a large dihedral. So I'm a little unclear of the geometry of how these two parts fit together.

I want to get it right as once assembled it looks like a guessing game to shape a replacement stub spar.


Robert
I didn't mean to imply that the thread morphing was a bad thing.... only meant that the info I provided previously was not contradictory to what you showed in your photos, but that it was related to a different situation.
I.E., doing the fit check as shown in your photos, and making adjustments after the airplane is built, are two totally different situations that require different processes.
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