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Old 06-14-2017, 09:09 AM
Driftdown Driftdown is offline
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Clearwater, Florida
Posts: 294

Originally Posted by Jolly View Post
. . . "You can drain the oil tank and then remove the oil filter and you will not loose any more oil. The reason for this is the oil pump design. It will not allow any significant oil volume other than a little oozing to come through the pump. If oil could flow through the pump on its own then there would be no reason to turn the prop to turn the oil pump during an oil purge. You can test this by draining the tank and removing the filter after it is drained. Then try it your way. The small oil loss at the filter will not change. Then when you put the oil and filter back in play and "Vent" the system by rotating the prop it will fill the oil filter and help purge the small amount of air in the system. The air introduction at this point is small. I typically have my new oil filter ready to screw on when I remove the old one to just help keep the oil drool mess to a minimum.
Here's another thing I learned on the Rotax forum. When you want to pull and clean the tank you can disconnect the fittings on top of the oil tank and just put a rubber stopper in the so they don't lose any oil if they hang down. The system will not lose any more oil than a regular oil change because the oil drains from the fittings anyway. Then you can replace the tank, connect the oil fittings and fill the tank with oil and do a vent like you do for a regular oil change.
No reason for an oil purge. Purging and venting are two different things as spelled out in Rotax SB's."
All good stuff Jolly.
And thanks for sharing your experience on flying light sport airplanes.
Your explanation on airspeed/pitch and altitude-GS/power makes a lot of sense and works for many of us.
Looking forward to more of your tips on Rotax care and flying LSA.

I consider you a valuable resource to our forum here.
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Old 06-14-2017, 09:23 AM
Phantom30's Avatar
Phantom30 Phantom30 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID/Casa Grande, AZ
Posts: 566

Originally Posted by Driftdown View Post
All good stuff Jolly.

I consider you a valuable resource to our forum here.
"ditto"! "Ditto"!
Ric Dickison
307 (CAB) Phantom
Search and Destroy (Can
Tho RVN)
Distinguished Flying Cross Society Member
CH-47 & UH-1H "Driver"
Rotax 9 Series Service IRMT

RV-12 Kit#729 "N312RD" is now a full functioning fun machine!! Thanks Van for fulfilling my dream😎
2017 Dues Paid
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Old 09-26-2017, 09:55 PM
ben barron ben barron is offline
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Fall City, WA
Posts: 91
Default warm oil before change?

I did not see any notes about warming the oil (running the engine) before changing the oil. Is this recommended?
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Old 09-27-2017, 04:56 AM
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Piper J3 Piper J3 is offline
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Hinckley, Ohio
Posts: 714

Its always a good idea to warm the oil so it flows easily but also so the oil stirs up and any sludge gets into suspension so it exits when the oil is drained.
Jim Stricker
Hinckley, Ohio
PPL - 1970
80 hrs Flying Aeronca Chief 11AC
1130 hrs Flying 46 Piper J-3 Cub
RV-12 E-LSA #120058 AWC 7/12 Bought Flying 10/2015 with 48TT - Hobbs now 315
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