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Builders references?

dromuald

Active Member
I am currently working on my rudder for an RV-14. Does anyone have any references for builders logs or references that expand on the guidance in the plans. I am debating how to complete the trailing edge. I have heard several people mention that they used proseal. The plans call for two sided tape. Others have stated they squeezed the TE rivets vs. the technique in section 5. Any good references or techniques would be appreciated.
 
I don't have a reference to a particular source or blog to point you to but in reference to the trailing edge of the rudder, I have done it both ways with the proseal and double sided tape with great success. If instructions are followed for the double sided tape, it works just as well as proseal as you want a good bound.
For me the key has been to have a long back plate so I can put the entire rudder edge on a flat surface to back rivet. For my RV14, I put my table saw to work and used it as a back riveting tool. It worked awesome. But I do have a 2.5"x4' section of steal plate that I had used for my pervious plane and that also worked well. Drive each rivet only a bit at the time till they are all set. It is easier than it appears to be.
 
I used the double sided 3M VHB tape, what I found that worked for me was to use 2 strips of the tape. I did this on other areas of the build as well and found the bond to be very strong.
 
RV-14 rudder references

Dave:

I use Google as my primary reference tool.

After typing in the text between the parens (site:vansairforce.com "rv-14" rudder), the first result was an RV-14 Rudder trailing edge drilling and countersinking post, with great illustrated directions from Brian Bennett.

Many more results to investigate as well.

Good Luck!
 
I find google search better than the forums.

The other thing I do is look at the signature in posts. If the builder has a website than it will likely be in the signature.
 
The 3M double sided tape is VERY easy to work. Tank sealant is NOT.

And flush riveting in wasn't bad at all. Just helps to have a steady hand.
 
As others have said, the double-sided tape is very easy to use and gives an excellent result. There's no need whatsoever to deal with sealant for this purpose.

Also, the necessary double-flush riveting is a lot easier than it sounds. I used my trusty pneumatic squeezer to set each rivet about halfway (expanded enough so that it wouldn't move in the hole) and, once the entire trailing edge was done to that point, flipped the rudder over and back-riveted the shop heads with a mushroom set. Just make sure that you maintain the trailing edge flat on the back-riveting plate. My rudder came out perfectly straight and even.
 
For some reason I couldn't get the double sided tape to actually bind to both the trailing edge wedge and the skin. Flush riveting wasn't that hard. Back riveting is pretty much the easiest riveting to do with the rivet gun.
 
I don't have too much to add to what's already been posted. I've had very good success with using the 3M tape. After drilling and countersinking using a jig made from an inverted piece of scrap leading edge, my method was to roughen-up all contact surfaces, apply the tape, 100% cleco and allow to set overnight with weights applied (I use several 25lb lead shot bags). I then removed the clecos, inserted all the rivets, then back-riveted using a mushroom head on a 2'X4' piece of 1/4" cold-rolled steel set on my workbench that I obtained from Online Metals. Working from the center toward each end, using two finger of my free had to apply pressure on either side of the rivet, I hit each rivet lightly and squarely to set the rivet, then at an angle perpendicular to the leading edge to form a flush shop head on the lower side. I've always obtained straight leading edges with manufactured heads on the upper side and nice flush shop heads on the lower side. Good luck and happy building!
 
With the 3M double sided tape, WalMart has both the removable and permanent tape. The permanent is what you want.
 
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