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rattle can interiors

bobnoffs

Well Known Member
i have seen a lot of posts where builders have used rattle can primers on their interiors. are these interior primers getting a finish color coat or is the primer coat the end of it?
 
Rattle can interior

I painted all my interior with rattle can primer (NAPA 7220) and Rustoleum Painter's choice (Granite color). The individual pieces were primed and painted before assembly so they could be flat on the paint table and avoid runs and avoid having to spray up into hard to access spaces. That does leave a lot of rivet heads unpainted if that make a difference to you.

CTT_2879-L.jpg


My interior was painted in 2009 and still looks the same today minus normal wear and tear. The Rustoleum is pretty tough, I would not do anything differently if I were building today.
 
I am using Rustoleum self etching primer. Its a military looking green color. I am thinking of putting side panels in from a vendor so under those it will just be primer. Any other areas that will show in the cabin I am using Rustoleum hammered dark bronze. Looks really nice. I stole that color from another builder when I saw his interior pics on his build site. If you want to check his site out search up Joshuas rv 9 project. Time will tell how durable it is but touching up should be very easy.
 
Next time epoxy

I used spray can self etching primer and then rust oleum over it. I regret it. Just doesn?t hold up to bumps and scrapes. If I had it to do over I would have used a 2 part epoxy on the interior
 
You will be very thankful with your decision to use a high quality epoxy or similar primer & spray paint in the cockpit area where the paint has to stand up normal wear & tear. Satin finish is preferred over gloss, especially if you plan to fly at night.

Conversly, if you like that tired beat up look of an old warbird, in 6 months, go rattle can.
 
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Having done a lot of paint in the past. I can say that some rattle can will stick like crazy and some won?t. Many times it?s prep though, I?ve seen plenty of epoxy primed parts peel like crazy (in sheets ) because it wasn?t prepped well.

What ever you do make sure you prep well. Vinyl wrap is a pretty good way to go too.

Most two part is going to bind well, however there are significant health issues with two part products as well so be aware of those. Realistically the more it bites the material the more it?ll probably bite you as well,
 
Has anyone put a clear epoxy coat over rattle can paint? I love the color and textured look of the hammered rustoleum I am using. Would it be feasible to put a thin layer of clear epoxy on top of the rustoleum? I was also considering putting a strip of clear vinyl wrap on the areas where you are getting in and out. I would think that would protect that area quite well. There aren't many areas where I would be protecting the paint since I am planning an interior kit.
 
Has anyone put a clear epoxy coat over rattle can paint? I love the color and textured look of the hammered rustoleum I am using. Would it be feasible to put a thin layer of clear epoxy on top of the rustoleum? I was also considering putting a strip of clear vinyl wrap on the areas where you are getting in and out. I would think that would protect that area quite well. There aren't many areas where I would be protecting the paint since I am planning an interior kit.

That is exactly what I did with my panel, and have been extremely happy with it. Despite the naysayers, it has been very durable. Prep is key. I primed first, and then sprayed on several coats, and then several clear coats.

I also used the rustoleum hammered throughout most of the cockpit, after priming with ekoprime. Again, despite the naysayers, two years in and it looks almost new.

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Chris
 
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Looks nice, Chris! What kind of rattle-can paint and clear epoxy did you use?

Thanks,

I used Rustoleum hammered gray and also Rustoleum clear coat. I don't remember which clear coat specifically I used to be honest, though.

Another benefit - if for some reason it does need a touch-up, it's easy to do.

For the lower half of my baggage compartment I used rustoleum textured spray paint. It adds a tough, nonskid surface that is very durable. This shows what it looked like before painting everything else:

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Man, looking at these pictures is making me miss building...
 
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I have found that single stage rattle can paint is not durable to abrasion or any type of solvent. It almost holds up to water. Use epoxy such as DP40LF or other major brands and you will like the results.

Bob Grigsby
J3 flying
RV3 getting close
 
I used spray can self etching primer and then rust oleum over it. I regret it. Just doesn?t hold up to bumps and scrapes. If I had it to do over I would have used a 2 part epoxy on the interior

+1

I used a grey epoxy primer (SPI) for my interior. Some directly on Al (sand first) or over rattle can self etch. The epoxy is tough as nails. I got a couple small chips from abuse only, where it is over the rattle can primer, but none where directly over the Al. It is sensitive to UV, but it takes years of exposure to show it's weakness. Not an issue if covered or in a hanger.

Larry
 
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