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Stud removal

FNG

Member
I?m installing a P- mag on the impulse side and need to remove the long studs.

Any good techniques? I?ve tried double nuts, and my stud removal tool seems to not be good enough. Is there a type of tool that has worked? Should I try to heat the aluminum?

Any suggestions would be appreciated

Tom
 
I just did the same a few weeks ago. Use the nuts that came with the engine to hold the old slick mags on. Double the two nuts up on one stud. Crank down so they are TIGHT against each other. Then use a wrench to twist the stud out. The studs will require a little more force than you might expect, but come out freely once they start to turn. I didn't have to use any heat, penetrating oil, special tools, etc.
 
Stud Removal Tool

Talk to Mr. Snap-On, ask for a stud removal tool. Not too expensive, cheaper than damaging stud or casting.
 
Stud Removal tool

I am one of those guys that spent hours getting the longer studs out and the replacement studs from Brad in. I could not get the old studs out with the double nut trick suggested in numerous posts. My local auto Mechanic was able to lend me this really neat little socket from Mag tools. It is part number SR-8A. It has some eccentric cams that lock down on the stud as you turn and makes removal a breeze. Other posts have mentioned similar tools with varying degrees of success. It also is used for insertion but note the following caviat. The threads on both sides of the stud look identical but one side is actually an interference fit and is the side that goes into the block. CAREFULLY hand tread this side into the block as far as you can before using the socket. The hole is treaded all the way through the wall of the block so dry fit the P-mag with the clamp and nut from time to time as you insert the stud until you have about three threads still showing above the nut. Alternately, Lycoming has a spec that tells you how much of the stud should be exposed prior to putting on the P-Mag.
Oddly, the stud I removed did not have the interference fit.

Cheers, Sean
 
Removal

Double nut, and a little heat.. try the harbor freight heat gun that?s like a blow dryer... you can?t get it too hot with that. Or you can use a portable propane torch and just try a few seconds at a time, protecting other engine parts with a tee shirt or towel soaked in water to keep other things cool...
 
Heat is a nice help but I used a stud extractor from amazon for the prop gov studs. Just couldn’t get it with double nut method. Ares 70016 worked like a charm and had all 4 out in a few minutes.
 
I'm curious. A P-mag can be clocked into the case at any angle. Obviously the standard stud for an impulse Slick is too long to fit in under the rectangular box portion of the P-mag. However, is the stud too long to fit under the connectors, using a simple machined spacer? The other side of of the P-mag is clear.

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I'm curious. A P-mag can be clocked into the case at any angle. Obviously the standard stud for an impulse Slick is too long to fit in under the rectangular box portion of the P-mag. However, is the stud too long to fit under the connectors, using a simple machined spacer? The other side of of the P-mag is clear.

I?ve installed P-Mags on a few planes, and something always gets in the way of the long studs Dan - the P-Mags just have some odd bumps and shapes, and while you can find a way to line it up so that the studs don't hit the P-Mag, you then find that the P-Mag is hitting a motor mount, oil filter adapter, case breather...something!

Paul
 
Thanks for the help. Heat and a stud remover did the job!

Now my Dynon 180 tach is staying at Zero. Any suggestions?

I?ll start another thread.

Tom
 
I am stepping into the thread with the question that naturally follows: the shorter stud installation. Which tool do you use to torque this rounded stud (2 bolts trick?), which value and which Loctite if any?
Thank you for your help
 
Double nut to install and use red locktite on the threads that go into the case. These studs don’t bottom out, so if there is a small unthreaded space between the case threads and the nut threads, just run it down to the unthreaded point and you’re done.
 
Double nut to install and use red locktite on the threads that go into the case. These studs don’t bottom out, so if there is a small unthreaded space between the case threads and the nut threads, just run it down to the unthreaded point and you’re done.

so if I understand, I shouldn't worry if I have very little torque when I get to the desired clearance? One relies on the cured Loctite to provide the proper counter torque?
 
The locktite keeps the fastener from vibrating loose, or backing out when you loosen the nut when adjusting the mag, but the torque (thread stretch) is provided by torque applied to the nut/lock washer when fastening the mag to the engine. The nut/stud combination acts just like a bolt.
 
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