Mike S
Senior Curmudgeon
I have received a couple of requests for info on how I mounted the Ray Allen POS 12 for sensing the flap position.
Figured it might be of interest to others.
The bracket was mocked up in cardboard from a cereal box to get the right size/shape, and then mounted with pop rivets. It is mounted level with the ball on the flap horn, when the flaps are at mid travel. I used .032" or .040" scrap stock, be sure to drill a hole--1/4" works fine, in the corner where the mounting tabs will be bent away from, you will end up with a nice inside corner radius after bending the tabs. Last photo shows this well.
The linkage is from the Radio Control aircraft world, I used a couple of 4-40 size ball links, and pushrod stock, and a solder on threaded adapter. The small aluminum plate is riveted on to the flap control horn so the ball link is in the middle of the lightening hole in the bracket. Use locktite, or peen the threads on the ball link-------access to re tighten a loose nut is not good.
I made up the same for a buddy; it has been working fine on his 10 for a couple of years now.
Electrical connections are D-sub pins, with heat shrink tubing.
Good Luck,
Figured it might be of interest to others.
The bracket was mocked up in cardboard from a cereal box to get the right size/shape, and then mounted with pop rivets. It is mounted level with the ball on the flap horn, when the flaps are at mid travel. I used .032" or .040" scrap stock, be sure to drill a hole--1/4" works fine, in the corner where the mounting tabs will be bent away from, you will end up with a nice inside corner radius after bending the tabs. Last photo shows this well.
The linkage is from the Radio Control aircraft world, I used a couple of 4-40 size ball links, and pushrod stock, and a solder on threaded adapter. The small aluminum plate is riveted on to the flap control horn so the ball link is in the middle of the lightening hole in the bracket. Use locktite, or peen the threads on the ball link-------access to re tighten a loose nut is not good.
I made up the same for a buddy; it has been working fine on his 10 for a couple of years now.
Electrical connections are D-sub pins, with heat shrink tubing.
Good Luck,
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